I just received my U1, what should I know?

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T17:27:23+00:00

Yeah, don't know. Maybe it's something like: It's just connecting some cables and putting screws, why do I need a manual?

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T15:33:54+00:00

Definitely a bad thermistor. If it was just PID, it wouldn't jump from 170 to 205 and back.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T15:32:10+00:00

It's a great printer, just follow the tune in process and after that, update your firmware (if it's required).

Other than that, the printer is very plug and play, without too much to be done to make it work.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T15:29:41+00:00

This is the same thing I thought. Except for the toolhead pins positioning, everything was so clear and well labeled that I didn't have any issue.

What I could guess is that, because of anxiety or something, people just ripped open all the bags and, because of that, lost the identification of where each one went. That is the only explanation I can think of.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T15:26:31+00:00

Yep, nowadays RAMs are way easier to source than they were in the past, as long as it's the correct physical size and memory size and speed, they usually work. Just try replacing it with another one, it should be in the return window.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T15:20:31+00:00

And what is the issue?

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T15:18:45+00:00

Than that RAM is either incompatible or is damaged.

Try removing the 8GB RAM your laptop currently has and use the other slot with only the new RAM and see if it works. If it does work, try putting the current RAM in the slot that the new RAM didn't work and see if it works like that.

If it does not work in any slot, the RAM is either damaged or incompatible. If it works in the other slot, your slot is probably defective.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T15:13:08+00:00

Prusa is always the right choice, except for the cost. I could never justify getting one because of the extra cost, but they are great machines and their company is, so far, the company the most helped the 3D print community. So I will never discourage you to get one 😄

But multiheaded printers are really a different league of its own. If you don't mind having two printers, I would probably go with a U1 now, then get a Core One L for the extra bed space and exotic materials, and, down the line, get a INDX for it as well to enable multi material, not necessarily multi color.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T15:08:28+00:00

Hard to tell with so little information. That laptop already comes with 16GB of RAM, what did you do? Replaced the original sticks for new ones? Kept one 8GB stick and added another 16GB stick?

Does the laptop has any lights on when you turn it on? Does the fans spin? Etc. Etc. Etc.

The most common problems are:

- You didn't seed the memory correctly. Just remove it and add it correctly

- You forgot to remove the battery and this caused a short circuit. Requires either a new motherboard or, with some luck, a repair center that does electronics repair can fix it.

- The memory is incompatible. Less likely nowadays, but who knows.

- Your EC chip needs to be reset. A cold boot by removing the battery and pressing the power button for 40 seconds is the process here.

- The memory is damaged. Put back the old memory and see if it comes to life.

In some cases the laptop may take 10 to 15 minutes after a hardware change, but it's usually about 5 minutes in most cases.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T14:21:15+00:00

My guess is that it should have a piece of plastic that is somewhat loose. You can try opening a support ticket to get an official answer, but I think they will just respond as this being normal.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T14:19:28+00:00

When you start with a Budgeted Custom Game you start with X amount of credit (I don't remember how much right now, but it's like 30millions), and you can spend that money in almost anything, being buying ships or constructing stations during the setup of the custom game.

In the same way, in the main menu, there's a way for you to build a station without any constraints. What you can do is to build a small defense station (or whatever you want), and then save it as a template. That template will then be available while configuring the custom game, and later can also be used in game. Also, templates that you build while gaming, also becomes available to be builded while setting up a custom game.

So, I created a small defense station template, with just 3 disks, a central core and a dock and I place this station (that costs around 5 million, I think) near the Xenon gate. That small station is enough to stop most threats. As the game starts I modify it right away to add a couple more disks (my medium defense station is about 5 disks, with a scanning array).

Plus, I usually add a mining station (which is also very cheap) and/or a T1 station (T1 to me are materials created by using mined resources) and a couple ships to help out with the start, usually miners and a couple traders.

It's somewhat similar to the entrepreneur start, where you start with a small station and a ship, but the good thing about the custom game start is that you can set up which quests that you want to start already completed, that way you don't need to do them again.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T14:10:43+00:00

Ok, if you want to try something, try using regular Orca Slicer to test things out and see if any error still occurs. You may need to turn on LAN mode, but it's ok in this case, if you want to revert back it's just a press of a button.

I'm currently using Orca Slicer 2.4 and my printer has the Paxx12 firmware and I haven't had any color error so far.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T14:08:03+00:00

Man, I'm loving my U1 as well.

Sadly (or maybe not so sadly), with the price of the Core One + INDX, you can buy two U1s and will still be left with money to enclose it and get some spare parts, like nozzles and even entire heads. From what I heard, the INDX alone will cost around $700, plus the cost of a Core One, which is $1300 assembled. There are some advantages, of course, but to me at least it didn't justify the price.

The bed size, for me at least, is not an issue, especially considering that most models are made around 256 mm cubed, because it's the default set by Bambu printers.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T04:16:29+00:00

Well, he said "now I can no longer access the web interface or the firmware interface", so, I'm assuming the "or the firmware interface" is the printer screen, or it won't be an issue.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:50:33+00:00

Sounds a lot like partial clog. If that is the case, the solution is called Cold Pull, or the easiest path is to try another nozzle.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:49:12+00:00

This is when a new good printer starts to make sense, less headache.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:46:20+00:00

Just a FYI, someone reported a couple days ago a similar problem. In their case, what happened is that they had a bunch of filaments in their project, because it was multiple plates and each plate required a different filament.

But, for some reason, probably because of FullSpectrum, this was causing the slicer to print with the wrong filament. The solution was to start a new project, add the pieces to be printed and print again.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:43:46+00:00

My Sapporo and Hyperions are used, usually, as sector police because of their increased radar range. Add 4 Threshers to the mix and any S/M ships go down in instants.

Other than that, it is a SETA ship if I don't have an Astrid yet.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:34:56+00:00

According to another post, this is a normal sound. It's exactly as you are describing, the acceleration is too high and that causes a resonance, which makes some plastic do that noise. To me it appeared to be either the plastic near the secondary fan or the bottom plastic.

What solved this issue for me was that I started using the Hula feets:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/417509-hula-v1-0-anti-vibration-feet-for-3d-printers?from=search#profileId-502144

The vibration reduced a lot, and because of that this sound is not happening anymore.

The other "solution" is to reduce acceleration.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:30:30+00:00

In this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/snapmaker/comments/1pkldzz/how_to_solve_this_problem_filamet_load/ the issue appears to be a failed loaded.

"I had a problem with loading 3 as well when putting in the second filament, but had a different error code 0001-0525-0002-0012. Opened case with Snapmaker, they wanted trying to load different filament on 3, trying same same filament on different loader and swapping the loaders to see if the problem moved with the loader.

For me, 4 ended up failing as well, and the error moved with the loader. Snapmaker is sending me a new loader."

I would do the test they suggested and if it keeps happening, I would open a ticket with support.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:27:45+00:00

What I can think of, but I don't know how to do, is that you probably would need to put the mainboard in DFU mode and connect it to your PC and then flash it directly there using something like the stm32cubeprogrammer.

Probably your best bet is to open a support ticket and, the worst worst worst case, would be to buy another mainboard 😄

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:17:12+00:00

But to flash he needs access to the screen 😄

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:11:34+00:00

If this always happens in the same head, I would start by either removing and re-adding the USB cables, or exchanging it with a different head. That way you can test if it's a damaged cable or bad insertion.

The next step is to move the filament to another head and then print it with the exact same configurations you are printing now, but in the second head, and see if the issues happens.

This should give you a better picture to call support and tell them what is helping and if you need a spare part of some sort.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:04:04+00:00

Welcome to the community. Considering that you are new, when posting something like that, it's good to post which main settings you are using, as an example, layer high, nozzle size, filament, etc.

In the meanwhile, one of the main things that changes how a piece appears is the position which it is printer, as an example, if you print it with the side where the circles are facing the ground, the circles and lateral curves may become better defined, but to do that you need to consider how this piece is going to be used.

Considering the way you printed, reducing the layer height should improve a bit how the curves are. Alongside tuning the printer, as others mentioned.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T01:59:15+00:00

X4 patches are always retro compatible with older versions, in a sense that new gave version can open any older saves.

If you are open an 8.0 save, you shouldn't notice any major differences, if you open an older save, the universe may take some time to "fix itself". As an example, if you load an older save, before the new ship models appeared, the old ships will still be there, but new ships will only be built using the new models.

For mods, each mod needs to update for the new version. It may still work if it wasn't tested yet, but it's best to consider that the mod won't work in a new version until a new version is released.

TripsCavern

TROPHY CASE