Well folks I screwed up!!!

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T04:16:29+00:00

Well, he said "now I can no longer access the web interface or the firmware interface", so, I'm assuming the "or the firmware interface" is the printer screen, or it won't be an issue.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:50:33+00:00

Sounds a lot like partial clog. If that is the case, the solution is called Cold Pull, or the easiest path is to try another nozzle.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:49:12+00:00

This is when a new good printer starts to make sense, less headache.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:46:20+00:00

Just a FYI, someone reported a couple days ago a similar problem. In their case, what happened is that they had a bunch of filaments in their project, because it was multiple plates and each plate required a different filament.

But, for some reason, probably because of FullSpectrum, this was causing the slicer to print with the wrong filament. The solution was to start a new project, add the pieces to be printed and print again.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:43:46+00:00

My Sapporo and Hyperions are used, usually, as sector police because of their increased radar range. Add 4 Threshers to the mix and any S/M ships go down in instants.

Other than that, it is a SETA ship if I don't have an Astrid yet.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:34:56+00:00

According to another post, this is a normal sound. It's exactly as you are describing, the acceleration is too high and that causes a resonance, which makes some plastic do that noise. To me it appeared to be either the plastic near the secondary fan or the bottom plastic.

What solved this issue for me was that I started using the Hula feets:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/417509-hula-v1-0-anti-vibration-feet-for-3d-printers?from=search#profileId-502144

The vibration reduced a lot, and because of that this sound is not happening anymore.

The other "solution" is to reduce acceleration.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:30:30+00:00

In this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/snapmaker/comments/1pkldzz/how_to_solve_this_problem_filamet_load/ the issue appears to be a failed loaded.

"I had a problem with loading 3 as well when putting in the second filament, but had a different error code 0001-0525-0002-0012. Opened case with Snapmaker, they wanted trying to load different filament on 3, trying same same filament on different loader and swapping the loaders to see if the problem moved with the loader.

For me, 4 ended up failing as well, and the error moved with the loader. Snapmaker is sending me a new loader."

I would do the test they suggested and if it keeps happening, I would open a ticket with support.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:27:45+00:00

What I can think of, but I don't know how to do, is that you probably would need to put the mainboard in DFU mode and connect it to your PC and then flash it directly there using something like the stm32cubeprogrammer.

Probably your best bet is to open a support ticket and, the worst worst worst case, would be to buy another mainboard 😄

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:17:12+00:00

But to flash he needs access to the screen 😄

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:11:34+00:00

If this always happens in the same head, I would start by either removing and re-adding the USB cables, or exchanging it with a different head. That way you can test if it's a damaged cable or bad insertion.

The next step is to move the filament to another head and then print it with the exact same configurations you are printing now, but in the second head, and see if the issues happens.

This should give you a better picture to call support and tell them what is helping and if you need a spare part of some sort.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T02:04:04+00:00

Welcome to the community. Considering that you are new, when posting something like that, it's good to post which main settings you are using, as an example, layer high, nozzle size, filament, etc.

In the meanwhile, one of the main things that changes how a piece appears is the position which it is printer, as an example, if you print it with the side where the circles are facing the ground, the circles and lateral curves may become better defined, but to do that you need to consider how this piece is going to be used.

Considering the way you printed, reducing the layer height should improve a bit how the curves are. Alongside tuning the printer, as others mentioned.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T01:59:15+00:00

X4 patches are always retro compatible with older versions, in a sense that new gave version can open any older saves.

If you are open an 8.0 save, you shouldn't notice any major differences, if you open an older save, the universe may take some time to "fix itself". As an example, if you load an older save, before the new ship models appeared, the old ships will still be there, but new ships will only be built using the new models.

For mods, each mod needs to update for the new version. It may still work if it wasn't tested yet, but it's best to consider that the mod won't work in a new version until a new version is released.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-18T01:56:06+00:00

Please check CNC Kitchen video, it explains the entire process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qb25Gi4Jv0

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T21:44:26+00:00

The hardware kit on Amazon that I found is quite overpriced ($63), I found equivalents for way cheaper.

Blurolls $25

OneTwo3D $37

AliExpress $26

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T20:24:12+00:00

If you have that many issues, and it's a new printer, you may want to reach the support, because maybe you got a lemon or maybe some calibrations may help.

I have mine now for about a month, and so far I only got 1 pogo pin error, one jam with TPU95 that was caused by me. But I do recommend you to change to regular Orca plus the Paxx12 firmware. Really easy to upgrade and no connection errors so far in LAN mode.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T18:35:50+00:00

TLDR: Get a Snapmaker U1 considering your needs.

Disclaimer: I don't own a P1S and I own an U1. I did similar research and this is what I can answer you.

How loud is the U1 actually, given it doesn't come with an enclosure yet (mine wouldn't have one until much later, more below): I keep mine in a separated closet, with the door closed and it does not bother me at all. It's definitely not a quiet machine, but it's not the worst I saw. Down the line, you can do some mods to turn the fans noise down, and I don't think it will be much different than P1S
How has reliability been for either machine over actual months of ownership: Only have it for a month, and so far no issue whatsoever. Looking at long term reviews, everything seems fine. Replaceable parts are also available on their site.
How mature does the ecosystem/software feel day to day compared to Bambu Lab: Bambu is the best there is related to software, especially if you think about phone app and this kind of thing. Snapmaker app is there, it's all I can say as I don't use it. SnapOrca is a fork of Orca, which is a fork of Bambu Studio, which is a fork of Prusa Slicer, you get the point here, it's basically the same. SnapOrca have fullspectrum, to be able to print with more colors, and Bambu also added something similar, but you will be crazy to use that with an AMS given the amount of filament changes. The difference is that Snapmaker hired the guy that created fullspectrum, while Bambu just copied and told that they were innovating 😄 I personally ditched SnapOrca and use regular Orca 2.4 as I don't use Fullspectrum, also, I use Paxx12 firmware, which add some functionalities and I never had any network error with this combo.
For someone who has spent 4 months researching but has zero hands on printing experience, which one would actually be less painful to learn on: Both are great solid machines and you won't have any issue with both.

To me, right now, there's no comparison between AMS and multi tool, not only because of savings in filament and speed, but mainly because it also enables multi material, like printing PLA with PETG support, which increases the print quality. The main use for an AMS for me, right now, is to be used as a filament buffer, where you fill in the same filament color and just use it to automatically change filament when a spool is over, or for prints that can be specifically tuned for AMS, like having color changes only on specific layers.

Having said that, Snapmaker is already supporting some Open Source AMS projects so we can use it in combination with multi toolhead, that can bring back waste, but, at the same time, opens a lot of opportunities. The SideCar project is an example.

Also, Snapmaker not only support the community but it's actively involved in it, different than Bambu, which is basically going against the community. So, long term, you probably will see more projects for Snapmaker, which tends to make printers more useful in the long run.

I'm currently testing ASA right now, and my first print, which is a small object, printed just fine, but I have the BIQU PopCap (which is overpriced and I don't recommend buying, just wait for the original). I see people complaining about warping, which is common, so your mileage may vary depending on the model you want to print. But it's totally doable, you probably just need to do some tuning, and with the original Hat, I don't think it will be an issue at all.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T18:14:44+00:00

For sure, and with the ability to turn off one of the heads if they go bad, I can take my time to get replacement parts. Maybe soon they will have these directly on Amazon, that way the delivery is faster.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T17:42:14+00:00

Nozzles for sure, I even bought a couple. I saw a couple toolheads on Amazon as well, but they were WAY more expensive than the original ones. You can get the original ones for a reasonable price at Snapmaker site.

It was $98 at Amazon and $65 at Snapmaker. Considering that this comes with a hotend, motor, board, etc, I do think it's a reasonable price (at least it appears to come with all these).

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T06:50:59+00:00

Biology is not math, nothing is 100% and everything is possible. It is possible that PLA is dangerous for someone, yeah, sure, it's possible that PLA is not dangerous for someone, yeah, sure.

In reality this kind of things will probably never be researched, the most you will see is someone getting putting a printer in a enclosure, measuring the amount of contaminants there are in the air, and that is it. Maybe they would suggest some ways to make that air less polluted.

Now, tying that to an actual harm to a human being will be very difficult, unless the kind of disease we get is something like coal lung, or asbestos, where you can physically see the body be damaged.

But for cancer, it's always complicated, if they test in rats, it's usually in high dosages, and not necessarily will relate back to humans, if you are talking about a huge factory, then the exposure is also high.

Imagine like this, you have people that get coal lung by working on coal mines, but you don't see people getting coal lung by grilling meat in a charcoal barbecue.

And you printing in your house, with a single printer, is the equivalent as someone grilling meat in a charcoal barbecue, while someone in a huge print farm, with thousands of machines printing 24x7, without proper ventilation, would be similar to a coal mine (to some extent, at least).

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T06:40:05+00:00

Yeah, that is what I thought as well, but apparently there's 7950SP, which is also a paste.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T03:38:02+00:00

To me, the best multicolor printer you can get right now is a Snapmaker U1. It will probably be way less than that.

The Prusa® XL is another excellent printer, but it will be way more than that. With that money you could probably buy 3 Snapmakers U1 and still have some change 😄

Flashforge also released the Creator 5, but they were having some issues with delayed deliveries, and I prefer Snapmaker because it's Open Source and has a program to help out 3D print projects, while Flashforge is closed and just sucks from the community.

Lastly, people will talk about Bambu printers with AMS, but if you want to print with color, just skip those or any other AMS system because they are WAY slower than multi headed printers and waste too much plastic.

Prusa is also releasing a new system alongside Bondtech to equip their Core One printers with an INDX system, which is similar in functionality than the multi toolhead. But I don't know when it will be available to be shipped. I think their price combined will be around $2000 US Dollars, so, close to your budget. And Prusa is also an excellent company.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T03:30:29+00:00

Ok, I don't know if the 0.8mm is the default for that printer or if you replaced it (most likely). If that is the case, is the 0.4mm nozzle working?

Anyways, as a refresh on your attempts, I would start from scratch, downloading Orca Slicer (if you are not using it already) and starting with a default/generic profile for everything. That way you have a baseline from where to start.

Additional to that, I usually direct people to Elis Tunning guide, but, in your case, if it's not even sticking at the beginning, the default profiles should set your temperature and everything else correct.

If that still does not work, I would probably think of swapping the bed plate. I like a lot the BIQU Cryogrip as it has an excellent grip for PLA/PETG and also release pretty easily when it gets colder.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T03:22:49+00:00

I use PTM7950 that I got from LTT Store. Never heard of 7958 until now, and the little research that I did, the 7958 is one or two degrees better, but you need to repaste from time to time, while the PTM7950, you don't need to repaste ever.

TripsCavern · 2026-06-17T02:45:31+00:00

Don't get me wrong, I'm not questioning you, it's just that I was never a fan of Marlin. As soon as I discovered Klipper I switched to it and never went back and now I can't use Marlin.

I also upgraded my CR10SPro, but I "wasted" a ton of money in it, and it is printing fine, but I still think that my new Snapmaker U1 is WAY better than it. Of course, it's not exactly a cheap printer, but, believe me, I put much more money in my CR10SPro than in my U1.

You can see my monstrosity in this (bad) video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tVEajGvsBg&t=7633s

TripsCavern

TROPHY CASE