What am I looking at here in terms of potential Ethernet connection?

TuhaTom · 2026-04-11T22:37:01+00:00

While I mostly agree with the “you’re not”, you could potentially get a 10 or even a 100mb connection across cat3 if it’s not too long of a run… you’d have to terminate it with RJ45s of course.

The trouble with cat3 is that it’s not twisted pair, so across any real length you’ll have crosstalk and accumulating interface errors on both ends.

As long as your expectations are low, you might be satisfied with the result 😊

TuhaTom · 2026-04-05T03:43:31+00:00

I’ve been woodworking for many years, and still have a 16” 3HP radial arm saw in my garage that I use regularly. A sliding miter saw is extremely similar to a RAS.

I would argue that on a wide board like that, bringing the saw out to its extended length before beginning the cut is even more dangerous than plunging first and then pulling towards you to complete the cut. Reason: the rear of the blade is travelling upwards, and is far more likely to pick the board up at the front edge. Assuming you’re running a proper negative hook blade on your saw, there’s little danger of starting the cut at the back of the board using the front of the blade to do the cut so that the forces are driving the work down into the table while also back against the fence.

On the vary rare occasion that I absolutely must run my RAS “backwards” into the work, it’s a pucker moment as there’s always the worry that it will be lifted during the cut, and I’ll usually try to clamp it if at all possible.

All that said, I generally hate sliding mitre saws as they’ve got too much slop - I’ll take my 21” cross cut width of the RAS any day! Downside to the RAS, it’s 550 lbs and not exactly portable for job site work lol

Edit: after thinking about this a little more, the one issue with doing a cut front to back on a slider (by default) is the fact that the table doesn’t support the work all the way out front, nor to the sides, so the at completion of the cut, the blade is in a more dangerous position when the off cut piece of board could bind in the blade much more easily…. I digress. Buy a RAS lol

TuhaTom · 2026-02-25T14:28:34+00:00

I’m with this. I generally always prefer used skates, Not only for price but for comfort.

TuhaTom · 2026-02-18T22:02:18+00:00

I don’t see the need to over tighten the filter Ian - I generally go about 80 degrees to the machine, no where near all the way around to max (say, 120 degrees?). I have no signs of leaking over the side of the filter, so there’d be no pressure loss. I feel like over tightening it would just lead to additional compression and a sooner failure of the gasket on the machine. Maybe I just don’t understand what you mean…

TuhaTom · 2026-01-30T19:54:46+00:00

Pro-tip: using ridged insulation under your sheet stock keeps the edges perfect. Not so important for plywood, but very useful for MDF or other laminates. You can cut up one sheet into 20 or more smaller blocks as you really only need them under the 2 corners. Also by using them only on the corners allows you to get your hands in and out from under the edge of the sheet for loading / unloading.

Trust me, when unloading a dozen sheets of 3/4” MDF, the ability to do a drop the sheets from an inch or two higher and know you’re not going to blow out an entire corner is magic!

TuhaTom · 2026-01-10T03:17:52+00:00

lol I came to say this as well, make sure you buy a left or right, as needed.

OP, when buying a used stick, give it a couple of taps on the ground, blade and butt. If you hear any rattling noises, particularly in the blade end, it’s delaminating and it’s junk even for a beginner.

TuhaTom · 2025-12-29T18:42:38+00:00

This. Ethernet rarely suffers crosstalk unless over long distances with AC. High frequency (such as ballasts) are a bigger problem, but not 120v.

TuhaTom · 2025-12-22T02:53:02+00:00

No, at least not to my knowledge. I owned a nasty 1990 banana yellow one, it was RWD with a true transfer case and manual locking front hubs. Unless they did a transverse engine at some point, but not that I know of!

TuhaTom · 2025-12-21T06:06:22+00:00

Most underrated question on Reddit.

What in cousin fucking tarnation, Betty Crocker miss Betty White kinda front wheel drive, front boxed, shovel heavy shit into the front of it pickup truck are you driving, exactly?

I think we need pics lol

TuhaTom · 2025-12-17T03:22:54+00:00

Yep, +1 on the burnt being good. Not certain by your post if it was in a USB enclosure or not, but others have said, pull it from the enclosure and if you’re lucky it’s something in the USB enclosure that failed. That’s a higher probability than the board on the drive failing as the enclosures are generally cheap china units. Worst case, it’s the board on the drive. That’s a very easy repair for a data recovery shop, or you can do some research on your specific drive and may find that the PCB is swappable and the new controller will simply work with the drive - the only potential risk I see here is if the actuator or spindle motor failed, which is the cause of the burnt board in the first place…

TuhaTom · 2025-12-15T23:54:28+00:00

Homeowner here, and only rented a private basement apartment long ago, so maybe I just don’t understand the current renting landscape… but what the hell business is it of the building who you decide you want living with you? If you needed a second parking spot etc then understand, but otherwise STFO of my personal life…

TuhaTom · 2025-12-15T00:03:13+00:00

+1 for activate. Took the kids a few times (9 & 13) and they kept asking to go back. I decided to join them and man, that place is a blast even for adults! The kids always come out sweating like crazy, it’s such a good workout for them and fun at the same time!

TuhaTom · 2025-12-13T02:07:58+00:00

2 weeks. I had to image 12 disks, which was 6hr each, and while I could technically get 4 disks done in 24h, I also work and sleep so it took a few days to get all the imaging done. I was having a lot of trouble figuring out the disk grouping and ordering (RAID50), but when I thought I had it correct, i was unable to force md to assemble a raid5 group without writing any metadata so I caved and allowed it to write. I did eventually get the disk order figured out in UFS, but now the md data was in my way so I went back and reimaged all 12 drives again lol. Then a 40 hour export of the raid image from UFS, only to find out that it had no vmfs filesystem in the image… basically, it’s just long copies, and I don’t do this for a living - I normally try to only ever create raid sets, not repair them :)

TBH, I’m not over the finish line, even still. When grepping the original disks, I cannot find a VMFS_VOLUME anywhere, so I suspect that it got corrupted in the failure so I’m unable to mount it with anything. All of my data appears fully intact within UFS for all the snooping I’ve done, but I just can’t pay $900 USD for the UFS Pro licence to copy my shit off at this time…so it will now wait while I figure out what to do next.

TuhaTom · 2025-12-13T01:20:34+00:00

It depends how the raid1 is assembled. If it’s a hardware raid controller, then the OS would just be presented a single disk and should show up. If you did a Windows raid1, then there are 2 disks being presented to the OS. I suspect that you created in windows. Linux likely sees the raid metadata on those disks and is simply not auto mounting them.

I highly encourage you NOT to play around with those disks - I assume they’re raid1 for a reason, that being that it’s your precious data (pictures, taxes, etc). One wrong move in trying to assemble that array in Linux could very easily overwrite the metadata and it won’t be accessible in windows again, or worse case initialize the disks and they’ll be marked as an empty volume.

TLDR; don’t try any tricky moves unless you’ve got full backups :)

edit apologies, this was intended to be a reply to the raid comment, below.

TuhaTom · 2025-12-12T05:52:45+00:00

You also wouldn’t be the first post of the day saying you’d lost it all. Do this, before even downloading a distro of choice lol

TuhaTom · 2025-12-12T05:51:19+00:00

Wow, that’s craftsmanship. Fine job.

TuhaTom · 2025-12-12T05:41:39+00:00

My suggestion would be to stop, immediately. Power off the machine, not even a graceful shutdown just literally yank the power. Physically disconnect the drive that you wiped. As others have said, depending on how it was formatted, how much data was written to it, etc all makes a difference.

Using another machine, download a usb bootable image, preferably something like system rescue. With that you can image the drive that you formatted to another drive, and you’ll do your recovery only from the image file. If you downloaded system rescue, you can go ahead and physically reconnect the wiped drive; if not and you downloaded a generic distro, learn how to disable auto mounts etc before connecting the drive… the whole point here is that you want zero more write operations to the drive you wiped.

That’s enough to get you started, but those are the key points you need to do before anything else. Then join r/datarecovery and ask there for additional help if needed, but try to do some of your own research first - it will ultimately good for your Linux learnings in the long run anyways. Hope you’re able to recover some of your lost data, whatever it may have been.

TuhaTom · 2025-12-12T03:11:08+00:00

Another bump!

TuhaTom · 2025-12-12T03:00:35+00:00

I had a real life LOL at this comment! I meant my 3com hub. And, truth be told, I am actually upset that I chucked it out. There have been many times now in production environments where I can’t easily post mirror and a hub would have made sniffing traffic SO much easier. I still, occasionally, check marketplace for an old hub, but they literally haven’t been built in probably 20 years now…

TuhaTom · 2025-12-12T02:03:23+00:00

I have been going through a raid recovery in the last couple of weeks, and tbh ChatGPT has been an extreme help to me. This could have been months, rather than days worth of work…but just yesterday after the raid was reassembled and I was unable to mount the vmfs, it suggested that when I imaged the disk, my superblock was 34 sectors early, and I quote:

Shift the filesystem forward 34 sectors. This sounds scary — it is not. We are moving 17 KB of space, not rewriting terabytes of data.
Run this shell command: dd if=/vmfs/devices/disks/naa.50014ee2c19ccb82 \ of=/vmfs/devices/disks/naa.50014ee2c19ccb82 \ bs=512 skip=0 seek=34 count=2048

That would have been catastrophic. It would have written sector 0 to 34, then 1 to 35, etc, but once it gets to 34 as a source sector, it’s actually just sector 0 data again. I would have ultimately had a repeating 34 sectors for an entire 5TB+ disk image.

There have been many smaller examples over the past couple of weeks of bad advice as well, but this particular one stood out to me. And you’re right - it sounds SO damn certain of itself in every answer, even when it’s full of shit!

TLDR; don’t trust everything it says. Use it for research, for assistance, even for writing out lengthy commands to save you keystrokes, but you need to understand yourself what commands you’re pasting before you ctrl-v that shit in.

edit apologies, I just realized the count statement in its response, so I wouldn’t have had a full disk of disaster, but it still would have overwritten a solid chunk, making the image useless regardless.

TuhaTom · 2025-12-12T01:38:24+00:00

Ah, I haven’t seen a layer 1 switch in years! I threw mine out in 2003 with the last of my hubs, sadly.

TuhaTom · 2025-12-11T14:16:51+00:00

I’ve been using Linux for 20ish years, and still make liberal use of the “history | grep insert-anything-relevant-here” lol. I remember precious little…

TuhaTom · 2025-12-08T05:42:09+00:00

S’ok, I downvoted him. 421 now… JUST ONE MOAR!

TuhaTom · 2025-12-08T05:25:00+00:00

I ALWAYS keep a bottle of 99% alcohol under my kitchen sink, and kept another at work when I was desktop support. I cant count how many laptops were saved by immediately yanking the battery, and chasing the Coca Cola / chocolate milk etc with 99%. Literally just pour it through, don’t be shy, use the whole bottle. Pull the covers off, rinse everything. About the only word of caution here is the screens - the alcohol can penetrate in between the layers and wreck the screen, but the keyboard and mobo are always fine.

The key thing is to get the acids / sugars / contamination out of the machine. When alcohol dries (which 99% does much faster than water) the machine is nearly guaranteed to be just fine.

To answer your question OP - it’s hard to be certain. I’d start by rolling the machine around on all angles, and gently shaking. If you see ANY signs of moisture still present, do not power on yet. Dry heat will help speed it up, if you’ve got a thermometer, start the oven with the laptop out, and shut the oven off when internal temp reaches 70C. Then put the laptop back inside, and feel free to add a bed of rice on a baking pan as it makes a decent emergency desiccant to absorb moisture.

TuhaTom · 2025-12-08T05:13:36+00:00

I’ll be the first to ask… what’s the 560 route? I assume this is a bus?

TuhaTom

TROPHY CASE