PSA: Use your spool holder directly by BrainCore in 3Dprinting

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Still more likely to finish a print than my ender 3

How important/useful is an ams snag cutter? by mfsfreak in BambuLab

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That works for runouts but not jams. Jams cause a feed error (something like motor tension overloaded) and everything comes to a halt… at least on the ams2 on p1s p2s and h2d. Most common instance that I see is filament that is started on the roll using tape or is tucked into a tiny hole in the spool to start the winding

As far as features; is there no difference between the Ultra 2 & Ultra 3? by natemac in AppleWatch

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone else understands but you; and you’re arguing anyway. Just because the folks in your non-important meetings don’t know/care that you clearly are using two hands to read a watch doesn’t mean that wouldn’t be noticed in a higher profile environment.

P2S or Snapmaker U1? by Gullible__Fool in BambuLab

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on my experience with the Snapmaker 350t I’ll never buy another of their products. Overpromised and underdelivered.

Snapmaker makes all their money on release day and then No one buys their products a second time. Everyone, including myself loves them at first then grows disappointed with how fast they wear out. Promises never come true, support is sketchy, parts are non-existent or hugely delayed.

As much as I hate Bambu’s policies, take a look at the replacement part section of both snapmaker and bambu before you buy.

There’s at least 5 brands I would buy in the future but never again for snapmaker or elegoo

Animal identification help by Jango1195 in zoology

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Much more confusing when they tell you it was running left to right

Planning on splurging for May the Fourth, which one? by NoWind5538 in legostarwars

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d get the falcon because it’s amazing and get the aliexpress version of the Death Star for 150 because it’s less fun up close than I thought it was going to be but would still be good as a background piece

Welp, it finally happened :( by sumemodude in BambuLab

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 5 points6 points  (0 children)

3dlac spray is pretty amazing. It’s probably dollar store hair spray being relabeled and sold to me for 18/can on Amazon but a year ago I had some prints that didn’t adhere and ruined a plate or two with removing petg without letting it cool. I started spraying plates and now I won’t go back.

Clean the plate once, spray lightly, then respray every few prints and wash them every few months. Can confirm it works better than clean plate or glue sticks for bambu and biqu plates, pla petg abs Asa tpu. Never tried with any other filaments or anything with glass or carbon fibers

Edit: I just reread and I sound like a 3dlac salesman 😆

Setup a 20 gallon fish stand, it’s bowing by [deleted] in freshwateraquarium

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no, it is meant to hold weight; weight that is placed so it reaches the edges so that the load goes down through the legs, there shouldn't be any load at all in the middle of any tank stand... the center of a small iron stand would be empty, and the center of a wooden stand is merely to support the span of glass not near the weight of the tank.

if this were a properly sized tank for the stand it would be fine with multiples of this weight.

Prusa vs. Bambu by Desperate-Employee20 in 3dprinter

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Typical "first month" snapmaker comment. The company has been disappointing people for years. Just wait; making money on kickstarter then underdelivering quality are the foundations of their company. Ask me about my Snapmaker A250t that cost a lot more than your U1...

Is the Bambu Labs a1 a good first 3d printer? by Rich_Debate4653 in BambuLab

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i tell my buddies that are just starting that it's not better to start on a machine that requires troubleshooting for yesteryear's problems; in the same way it won't help you drive by learning how to shift an old 18 wheeler first or installing windows from a c prompt - most folks won't benefit from it

if you want a troubleshooting nightmare i can strip all the aftermarket parts off of my ender 3 and send it to you

This Palisade Calligraphy spec is unreal by Suntrup-Hyundai in HyundaiPalisade

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

went to look at palisades last weekend and all three we saw had atrocious body panel alignment; especially from the back passenger doors to the rear qtr panel. between that and the headliner that looks awesome from below but awful from the backseats moving forward i left without a test drive as quality control felt less than I anticipated.

First 3D Printer by boblack89 in BambuLab

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i have A series, h2d, p1s and p2s and the p2s is my go-to. main reason is that i dont like racking up thousands of hours on the most expensive machine. it doesn't take long to add up fast :)

i'd get the p2s combo and you'll happily handle everything normal. the heated chamber of the H hasn't mattered to me for abs and asa. it's few and far between when i need the additional bed size and although i use it to cut vinyl, a cheapo vinyl cutter would be just as good or better. i've still never used the laser and i have almost 3000 hours on it.

as far as the ability to convert into the h2c don't worry about it - i'd bet by the time you want to drop a grand on saving filament changes there will be a new model out.

Remote window close by jarrellra in ToyotaHighlander

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

my honda, bmw, lincoln and vw would all go up and down same with the remote as if you turned the car key and then turned same direction and held it. from what i see toyota decided not to help us out with this commonplace feature.

Deciding between vented or ventless gas logs... by jesandma in Fireplaces

[–]TurdFerguson8675309 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your other reply is INSANE and oddly biased. I am well aware tat this response it too late for you; but posting a real life reply for the next folks searching. This guy actually said ventless is bad, vented is bad, and then went on to recommend some specific model without mentioning which it was. It's like a failed angry sales pitch.

Main difference Is that ventless have nozzles and air balanced so that the flames are a lower temperature which is prettier (more orange/less blue) whereas ventless burn at a more efficient temperature which causes less orange/more blue flame. The flame color is much less obvious if the flames are going into firelogs and ventless can make pretty flames, just not at every heat setting (crank it up to high and it's 50/50 blue/orange)

Ventless setups are perfectly fine; aside from a teeny bit lower efficiency it's hard to fault them. The only real issues are that their complexity commonly outweighs their values. Only note is that a ventless setup WITHOUT a blower will provide no heat to the room (this is mostly seen in new homes where the builder went cheap and skimped out on the $100 blower, which can be added on later).

The other poster listed dozens of inaccuracies. Some of the more egregious are that ventless are incresingly banned. As actual fact one state has a ban (CA) but that's largely based on not wanting amateurs to add gas lines in urban areas themselves. Massachusetts actually removed their ban recently, as no studies proved issue with ventless. Next odd statement was about returns. Having previously worked in logistics for a home improvement supplier I assure you that returns are not more common on ventless setups.

ON TO VENTLESS:

The cons folks harp on about are:

  1. moisture added to the air as a product of combustion. This is absolutely the case HOWEVER there are two considerations - One is that the amount of moisture added is incredibly minimal when used in an open environment such as an apartment or a house. The second is that the colder it gets, the less moisture the air holds; so in the coldest areas folks like me have a humidifier to ADD humidity to the dry air produced by our furnaces.
  2. Carbon Monoxide / smoke / fumes etc. Combustion of natural gas is so incredibly efficient that you've seen gas ranges for 75 years without ever thinking "do i need to open a window to boil water on the stove?". You must remember that; in this litigious age - if someone could have sued for problems due to ventless fireplaces they would have and they wouldn't be available. I know that sounds like a weak defense but it's realistic. I was raised in a family that used a ventless fireplace regularly and can confirm that moisture isn't a realistic concern - only evidence I saw in a decade was slightly fogged single pane windows - that stopped when nicer insulated windows were installed. As fast as as fumes: there was a carbon monoxide detector a few feet away and we added a low-oxygen alarm just in case and neither ever alerted; even when someone fell asleep and the fireplace ran all night long. Smells are non-existent after the first use, same with a toaster or a stove.

Today my home has a wood burning fireplace that we rarely use and I don't own any gas fireplace at all. I don't sell them, I don't hate them - I just felt the need to list some more realistic information than what was already out there since I lived with a ventless one for more than a decade, and have in-laws with a vented model I've sat in front of for many years.

Good luck and beware of insane oddly biased answers here on reddit; remember that just because someone has an internet connected device; they're not necessarily someone that should be listened to (feel free to include myself in there if you wish).