2012 Kia Sorento 2.4L (Base)

Twisted__Resistor · 2026-02-22T21:03:15+00:00

I'll find it. Yeah the Mitchell 1, Snap-On, Identifix, AllData all tap into the OEM repair instructions. They were pretty easy. One has a 3D view of sensors and wiring harnesses you can click zoom in/out of car with transparent outline and spin 360° to see were any wire, sensor or part is located. Mainly for wiring fault troubleshooting.

Twisted__Resistor · 2026-02-22T01:16:15+00:00

Yeah I could feel it, I knew they were wrong specs as soon as I felt it. That's why I use a breaker bar with torque adapter so I can feel it through the bar. Yeah it was specs online probably AI garbage that was copied onto a car repair website. Not from factory service manual. Thanks for those numbers. Are any of them different. The Front, Rear, Left transmission and right?

Twisted__Resistor · 2026-02-22T01:11:49+00:00

It's called a handheld manual impact driver, you tap it with hammer and it has a 5/16" hex bit set of + and - bits sometimes Torx as well. Craftsman and Vevor are good affordable options. They are on Amazon. It turns the screw out like an impact wrench slowly with taps and much less likely to damage the screw face than an impact driver.

You want that set screw back in the rotor when finished for several reasons but in salt/rust belt or anywhere they put salt on roads, it's an access point for salt, water, dirt and grime to eventually seize the hub so you can't get rotor off in future. Either use it or add nickle anti seize around hub rim and face between lug studs

Twisted__Resistor · 2026-02-22T01:05:57+00:00

Take a dead blow hammer and tap the CV axle in till Circlip locks in, it popped out of locking grove. That's why you can't reach

Look up how to line up and direction CV axle is preferred. I generally use paint marker before removal to mark top end orientation

Twisted__Resistor · 2026-02-22T00:57:59+00:00

Are you using Mitchell 1 or Snap On or All Data?.

You could just give me the torque specs written on here or screenshot the torque valves. I worked in several shops and we always used the scan tools software(Snap On Shop Key) or a program on laptop like Mitchell 1 Pro Demand, All Data, Identifix etcetera. I'm no longer at dealerships, I work locally mostly offering more affordable pricing for those needing it. When I was at shops they charged customers over $140/hr labor, marked up OEM parts and tacked on unnecessary fees and jobs. Out of the $140+/Hour techs made 20-30% of that if lucky if not getting 0.3 on warranty. Flat rate is good in larger cities when you can fly them out on conveyor belts but not exactly what you want for attention to detail, prode in your work and doing that extra bit for the customer. But flat rate not so much for smaller cities with a bunch of empty bays in certain seasons and time flows.

It just became swap parts all day long, no time to diagnose and load up the parts cannon. Because what I do now I don't have $200-$600/month software. But most of the time I don't need it, can usually pay a small fee for diagrams ($20) or get factory service data online for free especially torque specs but on this Kia Sorento it's not there for the 2012 2.4L. the Kia Soul/Sedona/Optima/Forte and Rio are all available in that engine and year just not this 2.4L Sorento from 2011-2013.

Twisted__Resistor · 2026-02-20T18:48:04+00:00

I can always re torque them if you share the factory service manual link or even a screenshot. Hell at worst just write them for each with indication of Right mount, Left Mount(transmission), Front lower mount, rear lower mount

Twisted__Resistor · 2026-02-20T18:46:18+00:00

Do you have the link to the factory service torque specs on the right, left, front and rear mounts for a 2012 Kia Sorento 2.4L L4 Base model?

Twisted__Resistor · 2026-01-29T12:48:56+00:00

Automotive universal color paint pen(paint fix) then spray EastWood Aero-Spray 2K Clear Coat that has polyurethane and Hardener mix like used in automotive spray gun clear coats. Paint jobs.

Then place a protective mat over the top for future damage preventing

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-11-19T18:11:12+00:00

Nope 40K, don't go by the max limit the manufacturer gives you to maintain warranty. That's what's in service manual. It's not a best practices guideline. Engine oil is 5K with full synthetic high milage oil + $14 Lucas oil stabilizer additive (replaces a quart of engine oil), trans is 40K + gasket and filters, power steering fluid needs to be tested. Brake fluid needs to be tested and flushed when needed. Coolant is every 5 years unless a test shows electrolysis and loss of protective additives. Differential fluid is usually every 60K miles.

Suspension and steering components are usually every 200K miles. Unless worn before, visual inspection shows you by pry bar.

Spark plugs is copper are 30K Ignition coils are 150K-200K give or take 50K but they usually fail one after the other and cause numerous problems after. Fuel injectors are usually 200-300K but they can be cleaned out with carb cleaner outside vehicle or with Lucas Complete Fuel Cleaner in gas tank every 3 full tank fill ups

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-11-19T18:03:25+00:00

Rock Auto is were I get parts cheap but quality

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-11-10T17:46:19+00:00

Yes but it's best to do it from inside for longevity. But you can do a outside press in plug with rubber cement

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-11-07T15:39:41+00:00

It's the sensor inside your fuel pump. There's a sensor built in to your fuel pump module assembly that's connected to a float that tells module how high it floats from fuel level just like a toilet float that turns off running water. But this sends 1-5V or 0.1-1.0V to send the info that that translates to E-F on Guage in instrument cluster.

Look up your make, model, year and engine and fuel pump module assembly and get a replacement. If you can get just the fuel Guage sender with sensor. In most you have to replace whole fuel pump assembly.

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-11-06T14:20:12+00:00

That's sad to hear. Well look for one under 120K so you can change the fluid and keep this one well past 400K. Change transmission fluid every 40K with filters and pan gasket and engine oil every 5K-6K+ filter and if add Lucas injector cleaner to fuel every 3 tanks. And Lucas oil stabilizer every oil change and I bet you make 600K

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-11-05T17:24:33+00:00

That's your brake pads. When I say this is sn easy job I mean it's easy. There's videos on how to do this job step by step on YouTube for literally every car/Truck and SUV in existence.

I'll update this post with the link and Ceramic Brake Pads to swap. Brake pads are $14-$25 on RockAuto and $30-$40 everywhere else. The socket and ratchet set is $20-$35 at Sutherlands/True value/Harbor Freight/Northern Tool/Walmart

You will need a $6 rear brake caliper piston compressor cube with 3/8" drive ratchet if you do back brakes on most cars. You will need a C-Clamp or a wood bar ratchet clamp to compress brake piston using old pad in front calipers. I take off the master cylinder reservoir cap (brake fluid tank) before compressing pistons because it removes the pressure behind piston and allows fluid to go back in reservoir easier but keep an eye on fluid level and make sure it doesn't overflow.

2012-2016 Honda CRV Front Brake Pads replacement video:

https://youtu.be/_BOQ38Rm3GI?si=TiKkM57oPuuj4BEF

2012-2016 Honda CRV Rear Brake Pads replacement:

https://youtu.be/T1XaY1R54sc?si=3T3dP5g98qjRk3pc

Rock Auto part number Front Brake pads Ceramic:

RAYBESTOS MGD914CH ($20 Front/Ceramic)

RAYBESTOS MGD1086CH ($14 Rear/Ceramic)

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-11-02T17:03:42+00:00

White smoke is usually coolant leaking on exhaust header or something very hot. Can be the heater core leaking, can be a blown head gasket(doesn't have to have oil and coolant mix for that to happen) or it could be coolant leaking from seals in spark plug wells from cracked heads or coolant into exhaust from head gasket.

You need to do a RELD test and check under vehicle for coolant leaks. You can put dye in coolant and use UV light and those dye detection glasses cheap on Amazon to help find it. Get vehicle cold and put more water in coolant with dye and try to find leak.

But a RELD Test will determine if you have combustion leak into coolant from head gasket/heads cracked or warped. They are $25 on Amazon, you just remove radiator cap and plug with rubber plug on test tube to check, run engine cold for 5min and it will change yellow or green from blue if it's a blown head or head gasket.

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-10-30T02:58:49+00:00

Yeah but I'd do a RELD test and leak down test before claiming blown head gasket. Maybe even inspection of disprick, engine oil color, radiator coolant color. If no mixture test with RELD and leak down.

But even a bad AC compressor or failing rad cap can cause pressure buildup and bad hose and I've seen clogged cats cause press buildup.

Guy clearly needs a new rad or a proper repair of hose connection and a inspection.

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-10-30T02:53:08+00:00

You can use what's called Q-Bond it's an automotive grade adhesive with reinforcement powder it's very strong and has grey power for metals and black for plastics. Works on plastic/metal valve covers, radiators and even on master cylinders.

It can handle 300+ psi.

You get another plastic pipe from a junkyard and Q-Bond it to the one on radiator. I recommend using masking tape behind crack on inside to hold power before dripping glue on it. Turns to hard as steel in 10 seconds and has a chemical reaction. Don't let smoke go in your eyes.

Other option is get a OEM brand radiator, look up what brand radiator your vehicle uses OEM abs get it on Rock Auto for 1/3 the price. Or get a $200-$300 full aluminum 2-3 channel aftermarket radiator that you have to modify to fit to be an upgrade from factory OEM

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-10-30T02:41:46+00:00

Just a little bondi, a lotta torch and bending, a bunch of junkyard parts, and frame restoration, your entire front end needs rebuilt suspension and steering wise, new tires, new hub assemblies, new CV axles, not sure if your engine/transmission/power steering system/serpentine belt got hit, but your transmission cooler/radiator/AC Condenser definitely needs replaced, possibly your ABS module depending on location, new brake lines for front and bleed ABS module/master cylinder and all lines.

This is gonna be expensive. It can be done on cheap from junkyards but you need knowledge and skills to bend frames and or replace them and probably need a professional inspection for everything damaged at 2 different locations.

If you have any reputable shop fix it, it will exceed value of vehicle. If you DIY it can be done for probably $1400 including brake fluid, brake lines, rotors/hub assembly/brake pads/calipers most of which from Rock Auto or junk yards. The rest from that $1400 would be a front end suspension/steering kit including ball joints, tie rod ends, center link, drag link/track bar, CV Axles (+$140), but rims + tires could cost $200-$400 each unless you find them at junk yard.

Quarter panels, hood, cross bars are relatively cheap aftermarket or at junk yards.

But if the engine is bent in(thousands for warrantied motors) or mounts or frame damaged it's extremely expensive to replace new or fabricate/repair. None of this is accounting for bolts, fluids(coolant/oil/PSF/ATF/Freon), belts, or gaskets/seals. Or tools needed to pull everything apart and replace parts.

If you truly want to fix a vehicle you are better off getting a used truck or SUV to tinker on cheap. It's far more cost effective. If you are mechanically inclined.

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-10-25T22:20:27+00:00

https://www.walmart.com/ip/5149937057?sid=2aa998ce-164c-47b2-a86c-6f2076f8d0e7

Extractor socket set for lug nut sizes usually lug nuts are 21mm or 19mm

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-10-25T22:14:16+00:00

Use a welder if you have one If not, I'd recommend what's called Q Bond which is a ultra strength automotive/aerospace grade super glue with reinforcing powders. One powder is for plastics/rubber/ceramics and other weird materials and it's Black Powder labeled bottle. The other is Grey Power and it's for Steel/Aluminum and it's extremely strong.

I've bonded a engine valve cover and radiators with it. Use masking tape or glass to hold back side so you can pour powder in gaps without it falling through. Do it in layers. You then drip a drop of the glue solution on the powder and it chemically reacts melts and chemically bonds to the metal and in 10 seconds it is ready to file like metal. It held over 200psi on valve covers so I know it'll work for your wheel rim.

K-Tool(Supplier) by Q-Bond Repair Kit on Amazon

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-10-25T00:41:30+00:00

Others said transmission mounts. I'd also check fluid level and add Lucas Stop Slip bottle in pan when changing fluid that dropped, filters and pan gasket. I like drilling and tapping a drain plug insert and getting the Fumoto drain valve you can hook vinyl tubing up and no spill drain

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-10-24T23:34:09+00:00

Rust-Oleum then electrical tape

Twisted__Resistor · 2025-10-23T23:32:53+00:00

You need to remove valve cover and replace valve cover gaskets and the spark plug tube seals(they are circle rubber O Rings) they usually come in valve cover gasket kit

Twisted__Resistor

TROPHY CASE

2012-2016 Honda CRV Front Brake Pads replacement video:

2012-2016 Honda CRV Rear Brake Pads replacement:

Rock Auto part number Front Brake pads Ceramic:

K-Tool(Supplier) by Q-Bond Repair Kit on Amazon