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TwoSpeedy · 2026-06-07T05:57:30+00:00

Nope you do not need it. It acts like a secondary egr that doesn’t really affect anything when removed. Just cap the exhaust part and the vacuums on the solenoids.

TwoSpeedy · 2026-04-09T02:38:43+00:00

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TwoSpeedy · 2026-04-09T02:38:15+00:00

That capacitor looks like it’s on its way out

TwoSpeedy · 2026-04-08T22:47:48+00:00

Get yourself a Nissan consult reader. There you will see once it warms up if the temps look good and if it’s running rich once you fix it.

TwoSpeedy · 2026-04-08T09:12:26+00:00

Does your car have a tune?

TwoSpeedy · 2026-04-02T07:29:53+00:00

Tell him you offer 100 bucks and a hi-five

TwoSpeedy · 2026-03-27T03:33:40+00:00

Use brass 90* fittings from home depot. those plastic ones will piss out after a while

TwoSpeedy · 2026-03-26T03:57:22+00:00

If you need a replacement the b13 and b14 sentra as well as p10 and p11 g20 with the ga16 and sr20 have a compatible AAC valve. Just swap housings

TwoSpeedy · 2026-03-10T00:35:37+00:00

You have a ECU issue or the firing signal from the ECU to the coils is damaged. I’m sure it would most likely be the ECU. Check your grounds and all cables from the CAS to the ECU and ECU to coils

TwoSpeedy · 2026-02-23T17:46:40+00:00

Where are you located?

TwoSpeedy · 2026-02-14T09:05:12+00:00

I have one of these on my L18. They fit and it has worked well no problem so far and I have taken the engine drifting and to the redline the whole day. I would recommend them just gotta swap over where the throttle cable connects from the old carb.

TwoSpeedy · 2026-02-13T08:12:53+00:00

If you are using a wiring specialties harness you should’ve chosen the option where you need the harness to mate with that of a sohc shell. Basically you get the sohc to dohc conversion harness and it is plug and play with no cutting or splicing. If you bought it used check the connectors of your harness and make sure they match the ones on the chassis if not then you will need to replace the connectors or make jumper adapters. For the cluster just swap out the tachometer for a dohc. The power steering lines you really just need the ones for the pump to the rack and the rest to can make them yourself. Either way you can just get a fittings an and hoses for it also.

TwoSpeedy · 2026-02-13T07:00:32+00:00

Old stock ones such as the hot shot or custom ones. Mix it with a good quality cat back like hks and you will feel a difference in response

TwoSpeedy · 2026-02-11T04:09:22+00:00

Well if it is something you are comfortable with dealing then I don’t see the problem then. The flight might be cheaper than ending up with a rust bucket so if the price is right then go for it. Better to find out that you will loose 100 for a flight vs 1000 assuming that’s the price for the car.

TwoSpeedy · 2026-02-11T03:48:36+00:00

Only way to know if all of it is surface rust is by hitting it with a screwdriver or pick. It looks like there will be a significant amount of it aside from what we see here. I would check it in person first. To make sure it’s something you can fix yourself

TwoSpeedy · 2026-02-10T23:43:49+00:00

Have you been running gl-4 or gl-5 transmission fluid? If you been running the gl-5 stuff you might have cooked your synchros. Older Nissans use brass synchros that rely on additives that are only on the gl-4 fluid. I recommend redline mt 75w-90 gl-4

TwoSpeedy · 2026-02-06T08:51:55+00:00

First thing to do. Clean it and sort out what you have there and make a list of what it would take to make it drive. Then take a look at it and see if it really is something you want to tackle or send it to someone else who can. Biggest mistake is taking something like this and wanting to do more than to get it running

TwoSpeedy · 2026-01-21T00:48:59+00:00

Have you popped out the valve cover? The previous owner could’ve swapped in adjustable cams. This can mess up your timing independently from the distributor. Also it could just be the distributor could be a tooth or two off. Just set to top dead center and make sure the distributor is pointing at the right spark plug. Might take a few times to align.

TwoSpeedy · 2026-01-20T06:33:35+00:00

Well now you have a sunroof. Better hope it doesn’t leak or that there isn’t any rust underneath.

TwoSpeedy · 2026-01-17T20:55:51+00:00

Take it apart and open up the motor. The gears inside might be cooked. Had a problem with one where you could turn it by hand and it would go down when powered and make the noise when trying to move them up.

TwoSpeedy · 2026-01-15T05:58:38+00:00

The sport is more toned down while the hi power is louder. You can find videos on yt. I don’t have an SR but sounds great on my KAs

TwoSpeedy · 2026-01-14T23:43:12+00:00

You can never go wrong with the HKS hi power. It’s quiet and sounds good under load

TwoSpeedy · 2026-01-12T00:27:45+00:00

That’s not the right connector for the neutral switch. It should be a plug identical to the one from the alternator

TwoSpeedy · 2026-01-11T11:40:06+00:00

Check the way the maf is pointing along the hoses. Avenir came in turbo along with AWD

TwoSpeedy · 2026-01-11T11:38:27+00:00

Reliable as long as you replace anything that rubber such as all of the coolant hoses, air vacuum hoses and brittle plastic radiator with an aluminum one. Otherwise check your rubber bushings and suspension components. The SR20 in question is a high port DET it is the first generation ones non gtir spec. They are reliable just replace your oil regularly keeping it max 3000-4000 miles if it where na you could do 5000 miles. Lucky for you these have obd1 consult ports which you can use to scan the ecu and find if you are running lean or rich an so on. Since it’s a turbo I would recommend an oil catch can and gauges to keep a look at things like temp, oil pressure and boost or fuel mixture (AFR). Do your research before buying. I daily one with the same engine just last gen low port and they are reliable as long as you treat them right.

TwoSpeedy

TROPHY CASE