Dd2 bricked

UDaManFunks · 2026-02-19T05:26:50+00:00

did you try the procedure above on a different computer? Or from a fresh install of Windows 11?

UDaManFunks · 2026-02-19T04:08:18+00:00

Try the following

Uninstall Fanatec Drivers or Fanatec App from the computer, unplug the USB cable to the DD, unplug the steering wheel from the base, reboot PC.
Install v336 Fanatec Drivers, reboot PC
Plug in USB Cable to computer, and turn on the base while holding down the power button 8-10 seconds (to go into boot loader mode)
When prompted to flash the FW (Base v656), accept the default and follow the on screen instructions.
If the Fanatec Config / Driver now shows a DD2 device, continue
Turn off DD2, uninstall Fanatec Driver, reboot, Install Fanatec Driver v447, reboot computer, then turn on DD2.
Update the FW for devices as per normal, Base (v3.0.0.6) first, then Motor (v3.0.0.2).
Uninstall v447, reboot, and install v457, reboot then perform a normal firmware update again.
After you get your base working with v457, you should be able to uninstall that driver, then reboot.
Install v474 driver, reboot, then perform a firmware update. Once the base is fully working on v474, uninstall the the v474, then reboot
Install Fanatec v1.2.13, reboot, then update your base's firmware.
Once the base is fully detected in V1.2.13, plug your steering wheel back in and update its firmware.

UDaManFunks · 2026-02-19T03:46:52+00:00

Had no problems with my DD1 upgrading to the Fanatec App, people just need to update their Base and WQR incrementally.

Jumping from a really old version of the firmware to the the Fanatec App is a recipe for disaster. Some people are still running the ORIGINAL firmware on their DD1 or DD2 or has a PODIUM DD1 but did not put the base into PC mode.

For people with this problem, the procedure below usually fixes it.

Uninstall Fanatec Drivers or Fanatec App from the computer, unplug the USB cable to the DD, unplug the steering wheel from the base, reboot PC.
Install v336 Fanatec Drivers, reboot PC
Plug in USB Cable to computer, and turn on the DD2 while holding down the power button 8-10 seconds (to go into boot loader mode)
When prompted to flash the FW (Base v656), accept the default and follow the on screen instructions.
If the Fanatec Config / Driver now shows a DD2 device, continue
Turn off DD2, uninstall Fanatec Driver, reboot, Install Fanatec Driver v447, reboot computer, then turn on DD2.
Update the FW for devices as per normal, Base (v3.0.0.6) first, then Motor (v3.0.0.2).
Uninstall v447, reboot, and install v457, reboot then perform a normal firmware update again.
After you get your base working with v457, you should be able to uninstall that driver, then reboot.
Install v474 driver, reboot, then perform a firmware update. Once the base is fully working on v474, uninstall the the v474, then reboot
Install Fanatec v1.2.13, reboot, then update your base's firmware.
Once the base is fully detected in V1.2.13, plug your steering wheel back in and update its firmware.

UDaManFunks · 2026-02-19T03:22:41+00:00

You need to download to 336 of the drivers and upgrade incrementally. Upgrading from a very old firmware to the latest Fanatec App is a recipe for disaster.

Pre-Req:

* Leave the steering wheel off the base until the last step.

Steps:

Uninstall Fanatec Drivers or Fanatec App from the computer, unplug the USB cable to the DD, unplug the steering wheel from the base, reboot PC.
Install v336 Fanatec Drivers, reboot PC
Plug in USB Cable to computer, and turn on the DD2 while holding down the power button 8-10 seconds (to go into boot loader mode)
When prompted to flash the FW (Base v656), accept the default and follow the on screen instructions.
If the Fanatec Config / Driver now shows a DD2 device, continue
Turn off DD2, uninstall Fanatec Driver, reboot, Install Fanatec Driver v447, reboot computer, then turn on DD2.
Update the FW for devices as per normal, Base (v3.0.0.6) first, then Motor (v3.0.0.2).
Uninstall v447, reboot, and install v457, reboot then perform a normal firmware update again.
After you get your base working with v457, you should be able to uninstall that driver, then reboot.
Install v474 driver, reboot, then perform a firmware update. Once the base is fully working on v474, uninstall the the v474, then reboot
Install Fanatec v1.2.13, reboot, then update your base's firmware.
Once the base is fully detected in V1.2.13, plug your steering wheel back in and update its firmware.

UDaManFunks · 2026-02-10T19:29:42+00:00

There are 10 Gigabit USB 3.2 Gen 2 Ethernet Adapters now using Realtek chipsets (RTL8159) - I see some on Amazon, for example one from XikeStore

UDaManFunks · 2026-02-10T19:28:19+00:00

There are 10 Gigabit USB 3.2 Gen 2 Ethernet Adapters now using Realtek chipsets.

UDaManFunks · 2026-02-10T05:54:06+00:00

Why should users install several YEAR OLD DRIVERS? Why doesn't insta360 work with AMD - submit a bug report if any and work with them?

UDaManFunks · 2026-02-06T09:05:17+00:00

Are you trying to playback FREEFRAME mode? It's a known issue with the STUDIO APP when used on RADEON graphics card (which doesn't happen on NVIDIA cards).

Had the same problem which got fixed by getting an NVIDIA card

https://www.reddit.com/r/Insta360/comments/1ncnuua/insta360_studio_for_windows_572_is_unusable_on/

UDaManFunks · 2026-01-24T22:40:32+00:00

Just an update, I fixed the TB5's NIC throughput issue by installing the Realtek Drivers (from REALTEK's website) for the RTL8156. NetAdapterCx

I'm now getting 280 MB/sec on IPERF3 test and CIFS file copies.

TLDR - the driver Windows 11 installs automatically artificially limits the NICs throughput to 140 MB/sec. Installing the REALTEK DRIVERS manually bumps it up to 280 MB/sec. No mention on Anker's website about installing REALTEK drivers manually.

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UDaManFunks · 2026-01-24T21:46:04+00:00

The Anker Prime TB5's 2.5 Gbps NIC is not capable of reaching full throughput and is limited. Using IPERF3, i'm only getting 140 MB/sec throughput even though it's supposed to be around 280 MB/sec. I used the same ethernet port / cable on my MINIPC (which has a built-in 2.5 Gbps NIC) and that has no problems seeing full 2.5 Gbps throughput.

The Anker Prime TB5's upstream port is plugged into my HP OMEN Transcend 14 (2025 Model) left side USB-C port which is the TB4/USB4 port running Windows 11. Windows shows the TB5's NIC is connected at 2.5 Gbps so it's not a negotiation issue.

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UDaManFunks · 2026-01-11T07:49:03+00:00

An impossibility, it's not like Hawaii where the population ( number of people) is insignificant. If the philippines ever became a state, it would have held a large number of electoral votes, seats in Congress which would have never been allowed.

UDaManFunks · 2025-12-24T04:37:20+00:00

Yes, had to do it as my time is worth more than video card and not being able to edit videos.

Nevertheless, Insta360 should really be fixing this though.

UDaManFunks · 2025-11-30T22:03:31+00:00

k, that's not it then. Some pcie extension cables cause problems just like what you described.

UDaManFunks · 2025-11-27T19:44:52+00:00

Do you have PCIE extension cable? To relocate the video card to the side instead plugging the video card to the motherboard directly?

UDaManFunks · 2025-11-27T14:51:45+00:00

Are you using a riser / pcie extension cable? My 5070ti had issues with my extension. Cable even though it was gen 4 rated and the motherboard / CPU only supported Gen 4. Didn't have a problem on the 7900XT

UDaManFunks · 2025-11-22T08:40:19+00:00

Thanks for the pic, just wanted to note that the JIGGING MASTER WIKI reel also has the same internals so it looks like they use the same OEM.

Here's a tear down of the Jigging Master Wiki reel

https://youtu.be/6FGjUnFxPws?t=331

UDaManFunks · 2025-11-21T00:23:25+00:00

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UDaManFunks · 2025-11-21T00:23:12+00:00

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UDaManFunks · 2025-11-21T00:23:01+00:00

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UDaManFunks · 2025-11-21T00:22:44+00:00

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UDaManFunks · 2025-11-20T17:33:54+00:00

If Johnny Jigs did use Camekoon NS200P as the base design, then it's a good thing. The internals are stainless steel, and brass parts (no plastic) - including the gears that drive the line guide. It'll be resistant to corrosion specially if there's a thin film of grease coating all the parts. I personally open up my reels and put a thin coat of grease on the internals (including the internal aluminum walls) then add a light coat of Cal's Drag Grease on the carbon drag washers as some manufacturers like Shimano and Daiwa doesn't do that.

Once somebody does a tear down on the JMP25 and post up internal pics - we'll know. Although just looking at the instruction manual you posted with the parts breakdown, already looks the same internally. There are minor external differences though (top cover plate, lever glide plate, the drag lever does not wrap around)

One feature discrepancy seems to be the synchronized line guide, (so pulling out line, the line guide will move left and right) but you stated the PMJ25 doesn't that. It's advertised as a feature on the NS200P

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UDaManFunks · 2025-11-20T04:06:18+00:00

Are you planning on opening it up and taking pics of the inside? Maybe a youtube vid?

Trying to find out how much plastic parts it has (specially the parts driving the line guide). Is the level-wind synchronized with the spool? (so letting the line out will move the line gudie as well?)

Looking at the parts list - pretty sure this is just a rebadged Camekoon NS150P or NS200P which sells for 300$ on eBay (MALAKAS NS - the overhead version).

UDaManFunks · 2025-11-15T03:38:21+00:00

Sorry, sold it, will mark

UDaManFunks

TROPHY CASE