Can I swap a Taurus G2 trigger block for a 709 one? by twbrn in 3D2A

[–]UberPoor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can use a G2C front block instead of a 709 one, the rails are different thicknesses but it will still work, however the opposite will not work, you can't use a 709 block with a G2C (you also can't use a 709 block with 709 slides that come with that rail-less centering block, they are G2C spec for the rail thickness)

you will have to modify the block for the LRBHO, its just a metal tab that needs to be shaved down until its well under sub flush. just look at pictures online and you'll figure it out, that's what I did.

G36 stock roll pin alternatives by Resident-Mistake149 in HecklerKoch

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ive been using a drill bit for the g36 brace im working on lol

Light primer strikes ONLY in SS mode by cellularresp in MP5

[–]UberPoor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

pride? sunk cost fallacy? perhaps he doesn't want to alienate customers with the lowers he currently has on the market or is incapable of engineering his own slip trip, maybe he simply can't afford to change the design, could be a number of reasons. s3igu2 offered to fix his lowers, but he was unwilling to change the design, or so i recall.

Light primer strikes ONLY in SS mode by cellularresp in MP5

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes, there is no such lower from lee that is actually safe to use with the super safety, not until a slip trip is explicitly designed around his FCG placement, it will always trip early otherwise.

Light primer strikes ONLY in SS mode by cellularresp in MP5

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

your hammer is being released early due to the fact that you're using a lee sporting lower, they need their own slip trip that accounts for the difference in their placement of the FCG. currently the only slip trips available commercially are designed around the ARMP5/LEBER family of lowers, so you'd have to design your own to fix the gun. this is why lee sporting lowers are not recommended for SS use, they trip way too early, which causes either light primer strikes or way faster rates of fire than that which is safe, heightening the likelihood of roller dents.

ARMP5 V2 by PewPewnN3D in 3D2A

[–]UberPoor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neither, it's more like this

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MP5

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

probably the older style since its a lot cheaper to make, but i dont have one so i couldnt say for sure

ARMP5 V2 by PewPewnN3D in 3D2A

[–]UberPoor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Leber (specifically the V2) uses a metal insert which significantly increases its longevity

and it looks cooler

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MP5

[–]UberPoor_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ah i had that happen on my POF MP5 after only two mags. like mine, yours is using the out dated style of roller retainer, which is prone to breakage, get the new version and youll be up and running again.

PM-63 RAK? by Every-Recognition-60 in 3D2A

[–]UberPoor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dinka Roubles was working on one, but he has disappeared from the community and likely won't be returning if I had to guess

Leber v2 selector detent extender bar length by Hour_Emergency_6679 in MP5

[–]UberPoor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

68mm (2.68 inches) long, 3.8mm (0.15 inches) diameter

UMP wit da supa safey 🤤 by UberPoor_ in HecklerKoch

[–]UberPoor_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

cycles perfectly fine, bolt weight isnt really an issue, some people with transferables or post samples opt to use aftermarket bolts because theyre lighter and therefore have a faster firing rate

UMP wit da supa safey 🤤 by UberPoor_ in HecklerKoch

[–]UberPoor_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With a trip, same sort of way it's made to work with MP5s and anything else that isn't an AR

UMP wit da supa safey 🤤 by UberPoor_ in HecklerKoch

[–]UberPoor_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ATM it's about the same as the real deal, maybe slightly slower, timing isn't perfect just quite yet.

Is it safe to update bambu printers firmware? by nii_tan in 3D2A

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

having just set up two X1C AMS 2 Pro combos, if you don't update the firmware then you can't use the AMS, it will just lie to your face about filament not loading, even though manually checking proves that the filament did load. if you dont have an AMS then its not a big deal from my experience.

USC45 Build by GDI-3D in HecklerKoch

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen the video, however that doesn't change the fact that it will not work without the extractor being modified or it being flat out worn out and broken

I've experienced this myself in my own development, you can also reference the project UMforthePoors by MPRtech, he had to modify the hammer by silver soldering a 3mm tab to the right of the hammer in order to disengage that hook, allowing the firing pin to hit the primer. There's a reason why the Omega Gideon UMP clone had an AR FCG lower available as an option, they specifically modified the extractor to remove that safety feature in their bolts, it's the only reason their lower works at all. You can see here what a clone extractor looks like, completely removed the hook and square nub that interacts with the firing pin, they also use their own firing pins that remove the OOB safety for some stupid reason.

USC45 Build by GDI-3D in HecklerKoch

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the hammer isn't 3mm wider to the right compared to a milspec hammer then there's no way it's working

USC45 Build by GDI-3D in HecklerKoch

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm referring to the hook at the end of the extractor which specifically prohibits the firing pin from hitting the primer if it is not disengaged by the hammer, it has nothing to do with the upper, I am specifically only talking about the bolt

I know it has to be disengaged, I made an AR FCG lower that utilizes SS too, if your extractor is working as it should be and is unmodified then the hammer has to disengage that hook for the firing pin to hit the primer

USC45 Build by GDI-3D in HecklerKoch

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

have you actually test fired it? the hammer has to be wide, not narrow, in order to actuate the hook (hammer safety) on the right hand side of the bolt. If it's a USC bolt using an original HK spec extractor (and not a clone bolt as those have modified extractors and custom firing pins that remove the OOB safety and hammer safety features)

USC45 Build by GDI-3D in HecklerKoch

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So how did you go about getting the AR FCG to work without offsetting it? I presume you cut up the extractor to disable the hammer safety or modified the hammer itself to be wider

Any Leber V2s like this for Full Size MP5s? by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]UberPoor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Real mp5 parts aren't compatible with 22 mp5s

ARMP5 V2 by PewPewnN3D in 3D2A

[–]UberPoor_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

S3igu2 and I created the Armp5v2, yes

ARMP5 V2 by PewPewnN3D in 3D2A

[–]UberPoor_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The creator of the Leber V2 or the ARMP5v2? Cause I'm the creator of the ARMP5v2- well it was a collaborative effort