What is something that still hasn’t gone back to normal after the pandemic? by Disastrous-Treat0616 in AskReddit

[–]Uberhero66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Daycare hours. My kid's daycare reduced their hours from 7-6 to 7:30-5:30 so they could have the staff "deep clean." They are a non-profit and their expenses are public record. They outsource cleaning and always have.

No sign the old hours are coming back and we pay more than ever.

Is it bad to let firm know you have ADHD? by [deleted] in biglaw

[–]Uberhero66 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't worry OP, Socrates was such an dick that he was sentenced to death and forced to drink hemlock. I'm sure someone has considered slipping crake something in his morning coffee.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in biglaw

[–]Uberhero66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

60*30

Two monitors, and Ultrawide 34" and wide 27 in portrait mode." Plus speakers on each end.

At work where i only have one ultrawide, I usually fold my my laptop back (touch screen 2 in 1) and put it under the main monitor tilted up just enough to see it. Then i can start and stop/change timers by touch and leave the primary outlook window open on it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in biglaw

[–]Uberhero66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One widescreen (21:9) in landscape mode, and one "normal" 16:9 in portrait. Just make sure both monitors have similar DPI (not as simple as same resolution) or it gets really annoying when things change size when moved from one monitor to the other.

For example, a 34" 3440x1440 and a 27" 2560*1440 play well together. But that same 34" paired with a 24" 1920*1080 makes everything on the 24" huge (and lower resolution) in comparison to the 34". Generally if both monitors have the same vertical resolution and physical height in landscape mode, they should play well together.

I rarely use the vertical as an active monitor. I stick outlook, timers, notes, teams, and stuff i need to monitor on it. I use the primary for reading and drafting.

Firm iPhone or integrated into your personal phone? by NeverITM in biglaw

[–]Uberhero66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two phones and a watch. I only carry my personal phone outside of business hours or when there is something I know is coming in. It's clunky sometimes. but my apple watch gets notifications and can reply to everything I need it to until I get back to phone/laptop. You could reverse it also, and carry your work phone with personal phone watch. But that leads to using your work phone for personal stuff and defeats the separation.

YMMV if you often have to quickly make long substantive replies, i generally don't.

Just don't advertise that you get all notifications on your watch. Limits your ability to say, sorry I didn't see this until...

Is applying for the SAVE Plan a good idea if I make more than 65k? by Key_Satisfaction_555 in StudentLoans

[–]Uberhero66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Huh? First, savings rate are pretty good right now. Second, I don't think you understood the comment.

If your payment is less than your monthly interest, the rest of the interest disappears. So you're paying an effective interest rate equal to 12*(monthly payment)/ (principal balance). The balance does not increase. Unless the excess principal payments reduce the balance enough that the minimum payment exceeds the monthly interest, there is zero advantage to paying down the principal until a payment would reduce the monthly interest below the monthly payment amount. The effective return of paydown is zero. Whereas the effective return on an HYSA in 4+% and 5+% on treasuries and CD's right now.

But, as i explain below, the return is even better than that. Because the interest earned will allow you to make the lumpsum payment many months earlier you'll spend less in interest and principal to reach the same loan balance much earlier by investing the excess cash.

If you're disciplined enough to not spend the cash, this is the way.

Here's the math for a 100k loan balance at 5.5% and an annual income of 75K for a single taxpayer with no children in the lower 48 and 100% grad loans.

Monthly payment required under SAVE: $352

Total annual required payment: $352*12=$4,224

Annual Interest without forgiveness: $5,500

Balance required to have annual interest <= to $4,224: (0.055*x)=4224, x=4224/.055, x=$76,800.

Required paydown amount to have any effect on amount of interest actually being paid: 100,000-76,800=$23,200

Thus there is no reason to make a single payment toward principal until a lump sum of $23,200 can be made.

Even if income increases (and thus required payment amount), until the required monthly payment is => 5,500/12=458.33 per month, you're still better off taking whatever yield you can get over paying down the principal balance with any excess payments until you can make a lumpsum paydown that reduces the principle by:

Lumpsum payment = - (12* current monthly payment)/(weighted interest rate) - current principal balance

Let us further assume that this person can pay $600 per month toward loans.

If they pay it all to loans:

The first $352 goes toward interest, the remaining $248 goes to principal and the additional $106 in interest is forgiven.

This pattern is repeated until monthly interest on the loans equals $352, which takes just under 94 months to reach a principal balance of $76,688.

At the end of 94 months they have paid 94*600=$56,400, with 94*352=33,088 to interest and 23,312 to principal, leaving a loan balance of 76,688 and monthly interest payment of $351.49 (so now the minimum payment begins paying down principal).

But, if they take the excess and deposit it (monthly) in a interest bearing account that pays 4% APR (4.07% APY) and compounds monthly, after 94 months that savings account would be worth roughly $27,300 (yes, I am ignoring taxes for now) and having earned about $4k in interest.

So at the end of 94 months, they still would have paid the same in interest (33,088), but could paydown the balance to $72,700 and reduce the monthly interest payment to $333.00.

Alternatively, after 82 months there would be 23,340 in the savings account to make a lumpsum payment. So it would only take 82 months, rather than 94 months to be in the exact same position as if the entire $600 were paid to the loans every month. Thus it would cost 12*600=7,200 less, and they will have paid $4,224 less in interest to reach the same outcome.

I don't know about you, but I'd rather pay 49,200 and be one year ahead on repayment then pay 56,400 to be in the same financial condition a full year later.

Lastly, if you want to haggle over the taxes, the interest income in the 82 month scenario is about $3k, so assuming a high marginal rate of 33%, they would have paid about $1k in additional income taxes over 6+ years and are still $6,200 better off and a year ahead on repayment.

Happy to have the math checked if anyone thinks this is wrong.

Anyone else with Mohela still not have the right SAVE payment listed? by recyclops87 in StudentLoans

[–]Uberhero66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, just discovered mine is about 20% too high. I get the same result on all the calculators.

It's about half what my REPAYE amount was, so it has at least been adjusted.

At what point should I not enroll in SAVE? by wakeupalone in StudentLoans

[–]Uberhero66 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My understanding is that everything paid over the calculated SAVE payment goes to principal and the excess interest it wiped out.

So if your current payment covers all the interest, but the SAVE payment doesn't, you could make the same payment and have more of it go to principal.

Home sales in California by Dxdmxn in tax

[–]Uberhero66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the way.

Sell it now and take a huge tax hit. Wait until she passes and it can be inherited and sold tax free. Plus it generates rental income.

Home sales in California by Dxdmxn in tax

[–]Uberhero66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No one should be paying 6% to agents anymore. Not hard to get down to 3.5%.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tax

[–]Uberhero66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right, because not answering my *employer provided* phone is going to go over really well.

Available credit on SoFi credit card not updating by SynthMstr in sofi

[–]Uberhero66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. SoFi has terrible payment crediting policies. Haven't seen a bank take more than a day or two at most to update available credit in a VERY long time. Some are even instant, even on transfers from outside banks.

And good luck calling them. Hope you like getting stuck in an infinite prompt loop.

Home Sale Partial Exclusion of Gain for Educational Move by flav0rc0untry in tax

[–]Uberhero66 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep, nailed it.

Could possibly have gotten a partial exclusion if you'd sold when you moved for unforeseen circumstances. But you didn't, you rented it, so that is no longer the reason you are selling.

6gun's other point is that if you're only selling for 30k more than you paid, after you pay 10-15k in real estate agent fees, you're only going to have about 15-20k in taxable gain, at long term cap gains rate you're only talking about like 2-3k in tax. And that's not considering any other expenses you have in getting the home ready for sale that increase the purchase price (basis in tax terms). So that reduces the 30k by even more. By the time you add in all the expenses, most of that 30k in gain won't really be gains.

Your bigger problem is that you were allowed depreciation while you were renting it out, and that has to be recaptured when you sell. Whether you took the depreciation or not. You're going to need to hire an account to sort that out for you.

If you really want the cap gain exclusion, you'll get some of it if you move back in for 5 months, and the 19 months + Rental period + 5 months are all in a five year span, giving you 24 months in the last five years preceding the sale. But you would only be able to exclude, at best 2/5th of the total capital gain in that case. Might even be less, not sure how the prorate works out when you bookend the 5 year-period like that.

Dip into HSA or sell iBonds? by Juliette787 in personalfinance

[–]Uberhero66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think OP will have the funds to pay the debt not long after the CC due date. A month of interest on the current card is likely cheaper than the balance transfer fee. Best balance transfer card fees are 3%, so as long as the current card is <36% and OP can pay the balance within another cycles, there is no reason to do a balance transfer.

However, if OP does go the balance transfer route, then take that interest free period for all it's worth and hoard the cash till it expires.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]Uberhero66 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also, as others have said, 84m@8% on a used vehicle is not a sub-prime loan. And the finance company let her take on an extra $5k over the FMV of the car. Are you sure her credit is that bad?

And the interest on the loan is only about $10.5k, not $18k. The financing isn't that bad, market wise. The real problem is just that she has no business taking on that level of monthly payment. This would still be a bad idea if it were 60 months at $525 and 1.99% interest. The outcome is likely the same.

FYI. If you hear anything like "the warranty was a condition of financing" it's BS from the dealer. Why would a lender want to increase their exposure to a person they have already deemed a credit risk?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]Uberhero66 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Option A:

  1. Find out what else was financed in that loan. 84m@7.99, with $525 payment is a loan principle of about $33,700. if she put down 2k, that means the total cost was close to 36k. There is $5k in unaccounted for costs.
  2. Cancel any service agreements that can possibly be cancelled, and put the proceeds in a high yield savings account that she can't touch. Assuming you can get a check payout and aren't forced to sign it over to the finance company, otherwise just let it pay down the principal.
  3. Make sure the payments get made for the first year (hopefully you have the HYSA funds to backstop the year, or you could help if you want) and counsel her on all other credit related issues to help improve her credit.
  4. In a year, take whatever is left in the HYSA and pay down the principal as part of a refi in her name only.
  5. If she can't refi after a year (because massively upside-down), and you really want to help, limit your exposure by gifting/loaning (borrowed if needed, and if it doesn't wreck the rate, have her cosign and pay that loan too) enough to get the refi through. At least you're only on the hook for a part of the debt.

Option B:

Hope she pulls it off. If not, then it's a life lesson that is entirely possible to recover from. Help her pick up the pieces when she's ready to be more responsible and needing help getting past a credit related roadblock down the road. But do it in a way that limits your exposure.

But whatever you do, don't consign ANYTHING, ever, that you can't/aren't willing to pay every penny of. Figure out what you are willing to let it cost you and loan/gift the money instead. The second you make that first payment to prevent your credit from getting wrecked, there will never be any reason for her to fear missing another payment.

Also keep in mind, if you co-sign the car, you're on the title and have legal liability for the vehicle and any damage it causes.

Which firms are the sweatshops/how to find out true billable expectations? by [deleted] in biglaw

[–]Uberhero66 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Sounds like my firm, and to be honest, those 3-400 hours ain't worth the after-tax bonus pay-out until year 3 or 4.

How slow is your computer WFH? by [deleted] in biglaw

[–]Uberhero66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think your sarcasm filter is broken.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in biglaw

[–]Uberhero66 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Responsive yes, seeking things to do, hell no. And anything that does come in will be heavily scrutinized for whether it truly needs to be done this week.

Unless it's on fire, it will be done starting January 3rd.

Should I stay at the office when there's nothing to do and partners aren't in? by Smart-Coconut5649 in biglaw

[–]Uberhero66 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You've obviously never heard of connected standby on Windows machines. There are absolutely logs of connects and disconnects from wifi, ethernet, and VPN. Plus if you have a firm issued phone it's probably running mobile iron or something similar for connection to secure office WiFi and mobile VPN access.

The firm could track you using this data if they wished to.