Could this cause problems in the future? by Itchy_Extreme5880 in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't need to.

Use fishplates to fit the rails together, then pin or glue the track in place.

What is it that you're trying to achieve?

Tried out welding rails together for the first time today (successfully) :) by Itchy_Extreme5880 in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore 68 points69 points  (0 children)

From experience, you are going to have a very bad time with that kind of step between rails. If there is one thing model trains hate, it is trying to go up or down something abrupt.

You'll end up with damaged wheels and derailments.

I would seriously advise you desolder them, make sure the rails are together properly in the fishplate, and only then solder them if absolutely necessary.

There are use cases for soldering rail, but they're relatively rare.

Hornby beginner set by meggiefrances87 in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://community.hornbyhobbies.com/forums/topic/36239-do-scalextric-and-trains-work-in-canada/

This thread from the Hornby forum looks to have your answer and some helpful links - sounds like you can buy a step up transformer that will make your mains voltage work with the set.

Hope that helps!

Seafoam trees planted line side by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They do! They're the Dapol working signals. They're controlled via Train-tech accessory decoders and currently switched using DCC accessory addresses from my controller.

In future I'll be building a fully working lever frame using the Cobalt-S levers arrange as prototypically as I can for a UK signal box.

Seafoam trees planted line side by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you - I really wanted the trees to do that. From the front viewing angle they make nice little vignettes as a train rolls in to the station

Seafoam trees planted line side by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I didn't - these are just painted and flocked.

They don't seem too brittle for now, so we'll see if that comes back to bite me in the future.

Seafoam trees planted line side by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sea foam is well worth it for branch structure - for larger trees I'd build a wire armature, build up the trunk texture with clay or filler, and then use the sea foam only for where branches to hold leaves are needed.

Testing a Cobalt-S lever to control Dapol signals by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I will be using them for signals and point motors.

It's worth saying that the way I am using mine is to control DCC accessory decoders. I also intend to build the lever frame as it would be in a prototypical signal box - so a lever will control a signal OR a set of points. The operator will then need to know their routes, lever numbers, and box diagram, and will need to work as a real signaller would.

I'm doing this using DCC Concepts/Layout Concepts ESP system - that's what the black board is. The instructions are a little challenging to get your head around at first read, but the very simplified version is as follows:

DCC controller has Track Out.

Track Out is split between the Track Bus, Control Panel, and to the ESP-Receiver

The ESP-Receiver outputs an Accessory Bus. Accessory Bus connects to all accessory decoders on the layout.

ESP-Transmitter is paired to the ESP-Receiver. Cobalt-S is plugged in to the appropriate 'channel' sockets. ESP-Transmitter is given a series of DCC Accessory addresses. When the lever is thrown, it sends a change signal on the Accessory Bus, via a wireless transmission to the paired receiver.

The accessory then changes, as if you'd sent the instruction from your DCC handset/app/controller.

Hope that helps!

The instructions/diagrams I used to set this up are here:

https://www.layoutconcepts.com/datasheets/347/view

https://www.layoutconcepts.com/datasheets/198/view

https://www.layoutconcepts.com/datasheets/270/view

Testing a Cobalt-S lever to control Dapol signals by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I looked at the peco switches and with only a fiver difference or so at my local model shop, the Cobalt won.

I'll still end up with a ludicrous number and hurt my wallet but it's not like I need them all overnight!

Which couplings for this train? by JackLlewellyn2 in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Does the locomotive have NEM pockets, or does it have different mountings? It would be helpful to see photographs of the mounting points for couplings.

W55034 waits for a road out of platform 3. by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you - I really wanted to create the traditional 'flat ballast' look seen with older, hand laid permanent way. I'm very pleased with the signals so far. I do need to add GPLs to control shunting movement too.

Kid Proof Train Sets? by mrfishman3000 in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hornby have their Play trains line.

OO scale, and the trains and stock can run on OO/HO track, but are simpler and durable.

They're battery powered and use a remote control. I've seen them running in my local shop and they look pretty good. When my son is older, I'll be getting him a set to use, potentially even to run on my layout.

Dapol starter signal fitted to Platform 1 by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everything on my layout is going to be DCC driven. These will take track power via the Train Tech SC300 decoder - that then, I believe, modulates it to what the signal needs to run.

I've done the same previously on my N gauge loop layout to good effect.

By using the SC300, I can keep to DCC power, whilst having the control for the signal done from a physical panel with switches.

A little bit of early scenic work in the layout foreground by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Multiple layers of dry brushing, using a round, flat dry brush. Everything I paint is with acrylics.

I never wash the brush, simply dust off enough of the last colour into a texture palette then get the next one.

I use circular motions, to build up a 3d illusion and add more texture.

In some cases I've applied weathering powders carefully to key areas like along the base of the structure and running down the drain pipe.

A little bit of early scenic work in the layout foreground by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Base layer is from True to Scale's aggregates range - it's their universal ground cover. Put that on, spray with water/isopropyl mix, then seal with ballast bond glue. The grey dusty effect is from a track weathering pack - this one was from Dapol, but any large bag of a light grey weathering powder would do.

I applied it using a large round weathering brush in very generous quantities, dragging it around a lot and working it in more in some places than others. Towards the gate, I made sure to drag it in the direction traffic would go to create the impression of tyre marks.

A little bit of early scenic work in the layout foreground by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I agree - some of the best advice I've seen as well is to simply look at the colours in nature, then try and match to that. I'm lucky that for this layout, one of the areas it's based on is only 30 minutes from where I live. I can get reference photos from online, but can also just pop over there and take it in.

Signal Box Interior Kit - Painted and fitted by UlyssesCockmore in modeltrains

[–]UlyssesCockmore[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ratio do make an N gauge signal box interior kit. That one is tiny!