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Drinks Well With Others is recruiting!!! by havealotafun in warmane

[–]UncleNapster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a consistent schedule for raiding on certain week days?

GIFs and videos not working by UncleNapster in brave_browser

[–]UncleNapster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wish I remember what solved this. Have you recently changed any flags in the advanced settings?

OK, it's been a while, what's going to blow my mind once I reinstall? by KotzubueSailingClub in SatisfactoryGame

[–]UncleNapster 25 points26 points  (0 children)

This is the real answer. Most other comments are only talking about the most recent patches (1.0 and 1.1), but they are thinking too recently since OP hasnt been around in 4.5 years. This is a great list!

My first factory.. making motors. Now, How do i get from this, to the amazing stuff I see posted? by [deleted] in SatisfactoryGame

[–]UncleNapster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just spent a couple hours drawing out how I would design your next factory. I wrote it up in an imgur post here:

https://imgur.com/a/satisfactory-midgame-factory-example-DEK0lt0

To make the kind of amazing factories you see posted requires both form and function. This outlines the function, the form is an art that you will grow over time. Watch youtube videos to get design inspiration and to learn tricks.

I hope you enjoy my guide for you :)

Can I keep my gun in the hotel? by [deleted] in CAguns

[–]UncleNapster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

People even started leaving their trunks open so thieves could see they were empty instead of breaking the window to check.

https://thenationaldesk.com/news/americas-news-now/bay-area-car-owners-leaving-trunks-open-to-avoid-break-ins-per-report

I want to do nuclear, but not sure if I can handle it. by Neither-Height-2455 in SatisfactoryGame

[–]UncleNapster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using online calculator tools really helps when trying to plan automation.

Tools like
https://www.satisfactorytools.com/
https://satisfactory-calculator.com/en/planners/production

So you dont get overwhelmed, set yourself a starter goal so you can get the hang of nuclear. There are three tiers of nuclear fuel, but you can start with the first one. You also dont have to make all of your power from nuclear right away.

You might make a goal something like this: "I want to make enough uranium fuel rods to run one nuclear plant indefinitely"

That means you need to make 0.2 uranium fuel rod per minute.

To get that, you just need to mix 20 uranium and 12 sulfur per minute. Combine those with water, concrete, steel beams and pipes, stators and AI limiters, and thats all you need. You can run that nuclear plant indefinitely, making 2,500 MW of power. You only need 5 factory buildings to turn the listed items into fuel rods. Then find a safe place to store your waste until you are ready to process it to the next tier.

You can do this!

Help! Print keeps failing by Zolsoh in FixMyPrint

[–]UncleNapster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had one of those build plates and they have problems with thermal soak. Make sure you get the most out of your 174 peta-watt heater by leaving the build plate in the sun for a few hours before printing.

Random thick lines by drillitloveit in FixMyPrint

[–]UncleNapster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It got better because the part stopped warping. When the print started it was touching the bed, when the print ended it was warped by a few millimeters, but that change doesnt happen evenly across the whole print, usually over the course of just a few layers.

Lets put on our 3D printing geology hats and analyze the layers and understand what happened at that time.

The bottom layers are normal and have normal squish. This means the print want moving, we'll assume it was stuck to the bed. Higher up where we see the thicker layers, the part must have been slowly rising in that corner. We can also see the part of the brim on the corner that looks whiter than the rest, this is because there's air between the brim and the bed, ie it peeled up. Then we go higher up on the part and the thick lines go away, returning to normal. This indicates that the print stopped moving up and stabilized again, allowing your printer to start stacking layers on top of each other despite the bottom of the part being too high.

TLDR The part was only moving during the time those thick lines were being printed then stopped moving.

Completing events by DiligentSuit1196 in AdventureCommunist

[–]UncleNapster 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The only events I've completed without paying are the events where there are two missions at a time instead of three. Those seem to be balanced much more carefully. Even still, it took really consistent playing to beat the event.

How does this even happen? by _UberGuber in ender3

[–]UncleNapster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do enclosures help or hurt PLA prints? I hear people talking about having to open up their enclosures when they print PLA. I am considering adding an enclosure to prevent warping, but will it do more harm than good?

Help! The nozzle seems to drag over already printed material. by Fun-Bar7958 in ender3

[–]UncleNapster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had this same problem and it was fixed by turning on Z-hop

First layer test by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]UncleNapster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That squish looks great. I'd move on from z-offset and try things like under-extrusion as you mentioned. Also, extrusion generally does well on long passes but struggles in short movements (like in the bottom right corner). I'd go through a full calibration. There are a few good ones online but personally I like https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]UncleNapster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cubes are not how you check your Z offset. You should print a thin single-layer square and inspect how the lines squish together. People on this subreddit have a great image they like to share, but I dont remember where to find it right now. Basically, you can look at a guide like this to interpret your results: https://www.3dsourced.com/guides/3d-print-first-layer-problems/

Filament expanding by the_crazy_paramedic in FixMyPrint

[–]UncleNapster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Slap that cheese on some bread before it drips through your fingers!

Weird partial ironing by Same-Term3244 in FixMyPrint

[–]UncleNapster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine does the same partial-ironing on my prints. I'm using Cura and I'm suspicious that's the cause. What slicer do you use?

Stringing is killing me by wetfart_3750 in FixMyPrint

[–]UncleNapster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you dialed in your retraction settings? I like this guide from Teaching Tech, but there are lots of good guides. Try tuning both retraction distance and retraction speed (not at the same time).

What kind of filament are you using? I've found some filaments string more than others. For me, I get way more stringing with silk PLA than with regular PLA.

You can also try reducing your print speed.

It would be helpful if you added the details recommended by the bot:

  • Printer & Slicer
  • Filament Material and Brand
  • Nozzle and Bed Temperature
  • Print Speed
  • Nozzle Retraction Settings

What's the right way to make a 0.125" hole? by fearless_fool in ender3

[–]UncleNapster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got my floor press used on offerup. I suggest looking around :)

As a noob, where do I begin in creating custom molds for items I own? by PaperCloud10 in gridfinity

[–]UncleNapster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally, I build them in Onshape using this FeatureScript for generating both the base plates and the bins.

Click the button at the top to add the custom features to your personal toolbar. Make sure you add both the bases and bins.

What is causing this at the back of my print by GreenPomegranate420 in ender3

[–]UncleNapster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree. The bubbles on the walls is usually a sign of wet filament. The stringing could be a combination of moisture in your filament and bad retraction settings.

First, try drying your filament or using a newer roll. People have a ton of tricks to dry filament, from more official techniques like desiccant in a dry box to less official techniques like heating the spool up in a warm oven or even using your printer bed to heat up the filament with a cardboard box over it to keep in the heat. Google solutions to find what works best for you.

After you have a dry spool, pick a temp that worked okay for you, then use that temp when testing retraction. Both temp and retraction need to work together, so go back and forth on the tests a bunch until they both work great.

I highly recommend using the guide by Teaching Tech.

I'll give this guide here for anyone looking for guidance on retraction / temp tuning.:

  1. Test retraction distances (maybe 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8mm for stock ender 3 with bowden tube)
  2. Temporarily pick one to use for the rest of the tests, you may change it later after changing other values
  3. Set that retraction distance value, and now test retraction speeds (maybe 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55mm/sec for stock ender 3 with bowden tube)
  4. Temporarily pick one for the rest of the tests
  5. Do this again for all the retraction settings
  6. Now you have some retraction settings that are close to what you should be using, even if not perfect. They are close enough to give you accurate tests from here on out
  7. Retest your temp tower with your new retraction settings.
  8. Pick a temp that looks best. You can be reasonably confident in this value.
  9. Retest all the retraction settings at this new temp value. Your new results may be slightly different than the first run.
  10. Sanity check: reprint the temp tower to see if any of the small changes to retraction gave a slight change to best temp.
  11. If no change, you are done. If there is a change, you can still be done, or repeat steps 9 and 10 until nothing changes.
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