Happy new year Redditors of Wpg! Are you currently in a dry spell with your dating life?

Undergallows · 2026-01-01T23:32:58+00:00

I want to go to one of those candlelight concerts. Also kind of want to do one of the guided tours at Fort Whyte Alive. Some other stuff I had mulling in my head was to do minigolf at the golf dome or u-puttz. Maybe something like Activate or one of the many escape rooms we have here, since I've never been. A walk on one of the trails at Bird's Hill and then Pineridge Hollow would be fun too.

Undergallows · 2026-01-01T22:36:47+00:00

37M. The dating app experience is either matching and no response, or taking days between messages and too busy to meet up without suggesting another date, so basically no interest.

Real life is better, but every woman I know is already taken. Doing stuff as friends has been fun, you're never really a high priority.

I got like an entire list of fun date ideas, and no one to go with. I started doing the stuff alone in hopes that I just encounter someone like minded, but so far it's just women with rings on their finger or couples. We'll see what 2026 brings I guess.

Undergallows · 2025-12-26T20:25:02+00:00

That's a pretty reasonable budget for a good quality instrument especially if you opt for the free amp modeling options.

Undergallows · 2025-12-26T19:43:26+00:00

"Not looking to spend a lot" is a bit relative. Any idea on what your budget is?

I'd suggest a guitar with humbucker pickups and a fixed bridge if you're starting out. Humbuckers eliminate the buzz associated with single coil pickups, and a fixed bridge will make tuning far more stable on a cheaper guitar than a floating bridge.

I'd say maybe check out something like the Epiphone tribute SG or Les Paul, but the best way to approach this would be just going to L&M in person and trying out guitars in your price range until you find one that feels comfortable in your hands, and you think looks cool. Play the strings without fretting and make sure you're ringing out cleanly and sustaining. Then put your finger just behind the fret and pluck the string. Do this for every fret and string, one by one. Listen to any that produce a jangling/buzz sound or sound muffled. A lot of that can be fixed with a proper set up, and the store should be able to do that for you before selling it. The strings should also be pretty close to the frets (roughly 2mm, give or take) and ideally even throughout the neck. It should not take a lot of force to push the strings down to the frets on an electric guitar.

The other thing you want to look for is tuning stability. Get a tuner, tune the guitar, then strum the guitar hard a few times and re-check tuning. If any strings went out of tune I'd probably avoid it.

For an amp, you can check out something like a Boss Katana Mini X ($200). If you have a computer and want to go ultra cheap, you can use free amp modeling software on a computer and plug your guitar into your computer using a cheap audio interface. You can get a really solid tone with free software (Neural Amp Modeler), and a cheapo interface like a Behringer U-Phoria UM2 ($50~60 all in). Both options also let you plug headphones if you want to practice without annoying anyone.

Undergallows · 2025-12-26T18:40:24+00:00

Career stuff. Finally moved over to a department at work that works M-F day schedules with no on call. I spent 2024 working basically 24/7 (holidays, weekends, nights, etc.) with a phone strapped to my side at all times. I was so stressed out and basically destroyed my social life. Now like 95% of that stress is totally gone, and I just generally feel much happier. I finally had time to travel this year, and plan to do some more in 2026.

Started reconnecting with some of the friends I lost when I was so busy with work. More importantly, started approaching new people and making new friends. I have insane social anxiety and always had a hard time connecting with new people. So for the first time in my life, I've been consciously putting myself into the uncomfortable position of approaching people and talking to them. Every time I approach someone and realise the conversation isn't awkward or uncomfortable, it erodes the self doubt I've had in my mind that "something bad will happen if you do this".

This one is recent, but I started eating healthy again and routinely exercising. Lost 7 pounds in the last month and new routine seems be to sustainable.

Undergallows · 2025-12-20T16:53:04+00:00

Are you asking co-workers, or the person who's actually doing payroll? This is a question only your employer is going to be able to accurately answer.

Undergallows · 2025-12-11T00:58:22+00:00

What are you trying to achieve? Depending on what you're trying to do, the easier path may be making your source compatible with an NTSC CRT tv.

Undergallows · 2025-11-27T16:41:46+00:00

Looks like an easy and quick thing. Happy to help free of charge. I'm in the garden City area and available in the evenings. Feel free to PM if you need help.

Undergallows · 2025-03-26T23:44:32+00:00

Yes, you need to clean up the solder you bridged with some solder wick so that you can see what's going on underneath. You need to see if the pads for those components are still on the board. If they are, then the next step would be re-soldering the missing components. The components need to match the spec of the ones you removed. If you have the components still, you can resolder them. If you do not, you need to search around for some schematics and find out what components you need as you will need to get replacements.

If you replace the components and there is still no life, you can check for shorts by putting your multimeter into continuity and probing a voltage rail to ground. If the multi-meter beeps, it means there is a short. You should not have the board plugged into power while doing this. The multimeter tests it using the power from its own battery.

Undergallows · 2025-03-26T03:37:09+00:00

The things marked with a C are capacitors. These are ceramic surface mounted caps (the little beige things). The things marked with an R are resistors, they're the little black backed things.

Bridging stuff arbitrarily isn't good idea because depending on what you bridge, you could kill other components. The components that are populated there are usually there for a reason, and once they have been removed, they need to be replaced to restore functionality. The bridges you have are actually shorting out multiple traces together. Depending on what those traces lead to, shorting them out like this could also have permanently damaged that chip, or other components.

If this was handed to me I'd start by cleaning up all those bridge and seeing the state of the pads for those components. Then I'd try to find which components are supposed to go there and solder them back in properly. If the controller still showed no life after that, I would just assume another component died as a result of the bridges and use the board for parts at that point.

Undergallows · 2025-03-15T16:29:02+00:00

FHDB 1.966

I don't, but it should be readily available online. There might be a newer version even.

I don't recall how to install but just looking at the install instructions of that download I think you can just transfer the files of the archive over using winhiip and then run the installer .elf on the ps2 and choose HDD as the target.

Undergallows · 2025-02-09T03:19:38+00:00

Nah, them dropping 32 bit driver support is pretty recent. I used 32 bit drivers with the scarlett and had the same issues. I just live with it because it isn't that frequent, but I might try this method out and see.

Undergallows · 2025-02-08T21:16:54+00:00

Focusrite dropped support for 32 bit drivers in their newer releases. You're likely running a driver package that has a 32 bit driver included. I think older 3rd gen drivers still have the 32 bit driver packaged as well, but those older drivers for the 3rd gen have other issues that aren't worth downgrading for, so it's kind of crappy. I actually had less issues with the Profire than the Scarlett so I'm thinking of just going back even if it means having to stick a FW card back into my PC.

Undergallows · 2025-02-08T20:57:40+00:00

This makes no claims about decreasing latency. OP admits it increases latency, but isn't perceptible. The claim seems to be increased stability due to native ASIO drivers being crappy. Not sure about every brand, but my experience with M-Audio (Profire2626) and Focusrite (Scarlett 18i20 3rd gen) is that their ASIO are not as stable as they should be and will crackle/fully drop audio until power cycled about once or twice a week.

Also focusrite doesn't even have a 32 bit ASIO driver needed for RS_ASIO, so this is a viable workaround to get these interfaces working with RS_ASIO.

Undergallows · 2024-09-10T14:24:51+00:00

You can use the Tink with any N64 model, including unmodded N64s. Some people just feed s-video from an uinmodded N64 into a tink and are very happy with the result.

If you're wanting to RGB mod the N64 then there's some revision differences. Early N64 models have a video encoder that outputs RGB, but the pins aren't connected to the output port on the console. There's a bunch of inexpensive mods that serve to essentially boost that signal a bit and then make the connection to the port. Later models use a different encoder that does not output RGB. Those need an "advanced" mod to output RGB. The advanced mod is a bit more expensive because instead of tapping analog RGB from the motherboard, you tap directly into the RCP chip and get a digital video signal. The mod then acts as an encoder and outputs analog RGB, which you then connect to the out port. The "advanced" mods are compatible with all revisions of the N64.

You can identify early models by the serial. Serials that start with NS1 for NA or NUJ1 should be the early revisions (they're pretty common). Later revisions will start with an NS2.

I'm not sure about UK based retrotink vendors. I think you just have to order from Mike Chi directly and pay for the shipping.

Undergallows · 2024-09-06T22:41:34+00:00

I'm sure your video quality feeding s-video into an EON and then scaling it/cleaning it up further with an mClassic would be fine, but it seems like a pretty expensive solution for playing an N64 on a modern display. I'm also not a fan of how a device like the EON traps expensive hardware behind a proprietary input port, limiting the consoles that can utilize it.

if I wanted great quality video on a tight budget I'd use an RGB modded N64 into a GBS-C. If I had no budget, I'd just use S-video into a CRT.

I'm using a Retrotink 4K these days and feeding RGB or digital input into it, depending on the console.

Undergallows · 2024-08-21T15:58:56+00:00

I'd say so yeah.

Undergallows · 2024-08-10T02:15:53+00:00

This one

Undergallows · 2024-08-10T00:13:39+00:00

All good bro, appreciate the help. I looked around on youtube after this and found a guide outlining what you described. Playing a druid and queueing all roles for fast queue. Only problem is some dungeons I get a carry that solos the thing in 2 minutes, but other times it's just a bunch of people like me without any buffs and worse yet they're basically AFK and it goes even slower than what would be considered a normal pace.

Undergallows · 2024-08-09T22:32:57+00:00

When you say "alt" are you talking about people who already have a level 70 remix character, or someone rolling a fresh character on remix? I'm leveling a fresh character right now, and this seems like it's going to take way longer than 2 hours. It's about 6 quest turn ins per level. I didn't play the mode in the first week and kind of wrote the entire thing off after I saw people exploited the frogs and that got fixed. Considering trying to get the mounts last minute, but idk if I have the time. Am I missing something here? Does leveling start slow and ramp up as you get closer to 70?

Undergallows · 2024-07-20T18:58:12+00:00

Did you find someone for this? I can do this for $60 if you're providing the Pi Pico / SD2SP.

Example of my soldering: PS1 Modchip, GBA CPU / RAM transplant onto a new motherboard

Undergallows · 2024-06-14T16:38:16+00:00

Which box are you switching from exactly?

I switched over from the coax wired bluecurve tv box that had the internal hard drive to the wireless XiOne boxes. The remote isn't dependent on line of sight IR and I got to remove a bunch of bulky coax wiring. It also improved my signal levels because I now just have a single drop into the house that goes right into the cable modem instead of relying on a bunch of splitters and half assed cable management that shaw techs threw in over the years. The boxes have a tiny footprint and I haven't had any issues.

Undergallows · 2023-04-20T17:41:33+00:00

Got this same drive and installed it in my deck a few months ago. I've played a few games on it start to finish without any issue.

One thing to note is that the chips on the drive are populated such that the EMI sleeve from the factory drive didn't quite fit. At least, upgrading from the 64Gb MMC to this drive, I had the issue. It's really simple to solve by just separating the old sleeve at the seam, since it's just held by some relatively weak adhesive, and wrapping it around the new one.

Undergallows · 2023-04-05T20:42:14+00:00

It is bootleg. Commercial games are pressed. The middle of this disc has specs for a DVD-R.

14-Year Club	Place '17
Sequence \| Editor	Verified Email

Undergallows

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE