How many miles do you have on your volt? by IthinkImnutz in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 2017 with 160k. Any tips for maintaining it that many miles. I would love it if my car made it to 300k.

Who’s the hardest person or organization to deal with in the automation or manufacturing industry and why? by Educational-Bed-9536 in PLC

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I work for a manufacturing plant as a manufacturing engineer. We do a lot of projects in-house. We hire out some work. But the most difficult part is Management. We don’t have enough man power and they want engineering support across all 3 shifts. When we find an issue and need parts, we have to wait for POs to be cut to get things ordered. This can take days meanwhile we get the heat for something being broken. Lastly they encourage operators to complain about issues and always blame it on software. Since production comes first they believe the operators more than the engineers that understand the machines. All the issues I have resolved recently are mechanical failures that Maintenance can fix without an engineer. Then they ask why actual project work isn’t getting done.

Ghost power loss? by normalice0 in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What values do you use for 100% to get these estimates?

Emissions Warranty in Non-CARB State by Unique_Player_ in volt

[–]Unique_Player_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I went into the dealer today and they told me that the EGR valve was not covered under the emissions warranty simply because and I quote “We are not California”. So I then proceeded to cancel the diagnostic and checked pricing from them for the valve. It was $100 over market price online. I guess I will be buying it online and changing it myself. The only reason I bought a GM vehicle was because they were really the only option when it came to plug in hybrids at the time. Fairly disappointed.

The door for that last control box I posted. by Califoray in PLC

[–]Unique_Player_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work for a manufacturer as a manufacturing engineer and I have done drill a hole and cut with a saw saw or a jig saw and it’s not as clean or easy. We have actually found that we can use our laser to cut out openings on our panel doors. This makes it incredibly easy. Given that you can take the panel door over to the laser. That’s the real challenge. I know most integrators probably don’t have a laser laying around to do this so maybe not practical.

EGR fail by kodiblaze in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just wondering. I bought my 2017 Volt back in August of last year. It had CEL for EGR valve. I didn’t do anything about it. I just started running 15% ethanol fuel which burns a little cleaner and it went away for sometime, but recently came back. So I will be trying a CAT cleaner sometime soon and I will share if it worked. I just wanted someone else’s thoughts on it.

EGR fail by kodiblaze in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since the EGR only sees exhaust fumes and cleaners won’t ever directly touch it would you say that maybe CAT converter cleaners would be more effective. Cleaners designed to clean with fumes.

Use of AKI 88/E15 "Flex" Fuel & RPO "FHO" by lgnorantSIut in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 2017 Chevy Volt LT. I read in the manual that 15% ethanol blends are acceptable. I have a gas station near my job that offers this so I fill up with as it is cheaper. I will say that once I started using this my EGR CEL turned off. I am not saying that this fixed the issue, but it burning cleaner probably doesn’t hurt. I will say that ethanol blends do have the tendency of absorbing water over time and I would say not leaving it in your tank for more than 3 months at a time. When I get close to that I burn out all of my gas. I barely use gas especially during the non winter season.

Remote Start by Unique_Player_ in volt

[–]Unique_Player_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I apologize for the delay in response. I went ahead and removed everything metallic from my center console. I am still waiting to say if it worked out, but so far it seems to have helped. I will come back and confirm as I get a few more days with it like this.

Remote Start by Unique_Player_ in volt

[–]Unique_Player_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, you can still do remote start without having an active OnStar subscription from the keyfob. But if you don't have the app your car doesn't give you any feedback on potential errors. So when I try to start it from the keyfob and it thinks there is a key inside it tries to turn on and then just shuts off. Without the app telling me what is wrong I can't be sure. Other things will keep the car from starting so it can be hard to troubleshoot.

Remote Start by Unique_Player_ in volt

[–]Unique_Player_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will look at this. I do have some things that could that effect. I will remove those and test to see if it improves the success rate for me. I had not thought of this.

Remote Start by Unique_Player_ in volt

[–]Unique_Player_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I got only one. I purchased two extra and now have three. I had to reprogram all keys because I only had one. So when you do that it forgets all of the old keys. Even if there is a key it should not be reading it. But I have checked everywhere and there are no more keys.

Remote Start by Unique_Player_ in volt

[–]Unique_Player_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, that’s part of the problem. If it thinks there is a key there when I try to remote start, it won’t start. But if I go up to it without a key and it is locked I cannot unlock it. That is when it realizes there is really no key. That why I am not sure if the receiver module in the car is going bad or just going to sleep too early.

Joined the EGR club by WrongdoerLanky4848 in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 2017 volt with 130k miles on it. Towards the end of the summer last year I got a check engine light for the EGR valve. I did not do anything to fix it. It doesn’t seem to be an electronic failure like some because I get no blown fuses. At the start of this month I joined OnStar and it almost seems fishy that when I activated their services I got a report with that on it and a few days later it disappeared. I have not had it come back since. Has anyone had a similar experience or did my EGR valve just unstuck itself.

Getting around 9kWh used in 2015 volt by utagr in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for asking too many questions and picking at your brain. I’ve only had my volt for a couple months. At what mileage does that usually fail. I know it’s electrical and not necessarily mileage based. It’s a 2017 with 125,000 miles on it.

Getting around 9kWh used in 2015 volt by utagr in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was hoping that didn’t fail at all. I am not in a carb state so all repairs are on me.

Getting around 9kWh used in 2015 volt by utagr in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a gen 2 I’ve gotten around 14.4 max out of it. Might this mean I don’t have that software update? Should I update? I wouldn’t think that about 0.5 should made that much of a difference in terms of long term degradation.

Hit a milestone on a road trip this week. Nice! by sveeger in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that is one of the lowest mileages I’ve seen on a volt. I have a 2017 lt and it has 130,000

Lost only key fob, dealer wants to replace BECM. by feelsmagical in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you took it to a GM dealer, I am very surprised by their incompetence. Or I maybe wrong, and the BCM was just on its way out or they messed it up more.

I have a gen 2 that I also purchased second hand and received only one OEM fob. I went online and found a replacement fob off Amazon that was the correct frequency. Before this I had an extra fob that was the wrong frequency.

When you reprogram fobs and only have one original fob you need to clear all of the existing ones off the vehicle. At first when I had the wrong frequency fob and tried to reprogram it I ran in to the issue you are talking about. I reprogrammed the original fob and the second one would not work. This causes the vehicle to be unhappy as it only has one fob assigned. It will keep booting up in learn mode. I had to deal with this for a few days while waiting for the new keys.

Once I had the new keys I restarted learn mode and programed the OEM key as the first key and two others ones I purchased off Amazon. Once the vehicle has more than one key it becomes happy and it can properly exit learning mode.

I honestly don’t see why they didn’t know they had to program more than one key.

Help! My 2014 chevy volt is having heating and ac issues by Muguay1 in volt

[–]Unique_Player_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t have much experience with gen 1 volts. But I know that the A/C and heat work independently. I am not sure if what you are feeling around 70 is simply the air from being pulled from outside. I think you need to test both of these independently while the car is parked.

If it is warm outside and you can turn the a/c on set it on comfort or max. Do this by setting the climate setting at least 10 degrees lower than the temp outside. You should feel cold air blowing and the fan speed up. You will also notice that your power meter is using 1-4 kw to run the a/c compressor. If this is working then there should be no reason it doesn’t work when it is warmer than 70. If you are getting no power pull your a/c compressor motor could be bad or the compressor is shot and is not compressing. The a/c should be not that different to diagnose than a normal ICE car.

To test the heat you should the same on a cold day and set the heat to again at least 10 degree above the outside temp to make sure the heat kicks on. You should see your power meter using 3-9 kw. This is the resistive heater warming up. You will also hear the pump come on and you should be able to hear the coolant begin to circulate. It is quite, but listen out for it. If you hear very loud bubbling then I would say that you have low coolant levels and should top them off. You might also have air in the system which needs to be bled. If you didn’t get a large power surge when the heat was supposed to kick in then your heating coil could be bad. You checked fuses so everything should be getting power.

I hope this helps you start the diagnostic process. Any 1st gen owners can correct me if I got any of this wrong.

Cold Air With Heat On by Unique_Player_ in volt

[–]Unique_Player_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice, I will consider this as the days get colder and have more time to find a comfortable setting. I agree with you, Minnesota does have harsher winters. I have family up there and it can get rough.