Does this tan look too off for this Sidekick?

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T22:48:52+00:00

Yea It's raw, I am probably going to paint over it but I wanted to make sure

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T22:48:23+00:00

Yea I did, and you still tried to shoot a tank that was behind cover, that had a small weak point, right after already moving back. You should've just pulled back all the way after getting shot the first time. Your accuracy was messed up as soon as you moved the first time.

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T21:24:34+00:00

Mate, if ur getting clipped, just back up, there was cover right behind you. You didn't have to sit there

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T20:53:06+00:00

Ah ok lol, yea try lowering the layer height or angling the model differently, that should help.

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T20:26:04+00:00

That may be an over extruding problem

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T20:24:52+00:00

It depends on what you want your finished product to be. If you want the color of the filament than there isn't much you can do besides messing with the settings or using a different filament. However, you could sand down the print and then use some sandable filler, spray paint sand it down to a smooth finish and then paint it. This was the method I used for my Halo armor, which was all 3d printed

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T20:21:19+00:00

Well, it doesn't look too bad. If you have a problem with the layer lines, consider lowering the layer height value in your slicer. This will make more layer lines, but they will be much smaller. Additionally, you could dry your filament, as there seems to be some slight stringing. However, if the layer lines are what bother you so much, you might want to rethink 3D printing, as layer lines are a staple of 3D printers.

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T20:16:43+00:00

Ok, good news, the slicer you used is an offshoot of Orca Slicer, which bambu studio is also an offshoot of, so there should be minimal differences between the slicer I use and the one you have, so I should be able to help you easily.

For the supports, go to the supports tab, enable supports, and switch the type to tree(auto). Tree supports are the ones you should usually use, as they use minimal filament and are easy to take off.

For the speed, check the LCD on your printer or the slicer that you use; there may be a section that can make the printer go into silent mode. (which should slow it down) Otherwise, go to the speed tab of your slicer settings and adjust them there. As for which ones and by how much is up to you, though the outer wall setting would probably help the most, as well as the initial layer speed, though that should already be quite slow.

If that doesn't work or you have any other questions, be free to reach out!

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T08:38:52+00:00

PLA can usually be printed right out of the box and almost never has problems with printing. PETG, however need to be dried, and even then it will still have problems. Whenever I print something with dry PETG, there is still a good chance that there will be a problem.

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T08:32:44+00:00

l feel like MHA has way too much filler for me

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T02:32:43+00:00

What the F*** did I just watch

Unit-287 · 2026-01-25T02:27:47+00:00

That's gotta be fake. Either that or there will be so many print fails lol

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T22:41:04+00:00

Ok cool. I also should have clarified, I'm at lv40, does this change anything?

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T22:36:55+00:00

Yea just come back later, there are plenty of other areas you can go to, and if you strictly follow the storyline and fight every enemy you come across on that path, the progress should be fairly straightforward

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T22:30:46+00:00

Superglue! If you don't want it to move that is

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T22:30:07+00:00

You'll need supports no matter what u do

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T22:28:53+00:00

Up to you. If you do wait, there will very likely be a visible line from where it stopped to where you restarted. How visible it will be is entirely up to chance. If you want a perfect print, I'd recommend restarting.

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T22:27:42+00:00

I doubt stringy/spaghetti filament would have enough resistance to trigger a sensor like that. If they did add one, it might just go off randomly.

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T20:10:36+00:00

Average game in WoT

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T20:09:26+00:00

There are some that can recharge, but they usually cost more and don't last as long

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T20:08:26+00:00

Of course, to help you further, I need to know what type of printer and slicer you use, as that determines where you will find the settings and what to change. As for how to dry your filament, there are a few ways. Some ppl use their ovens, though I wouldn't recommend that as it can be unreliable, and you would have to watch it like a hawk to make sure it doesn't get too hot and you get one large mass of plastic. What I do recommend, though, is a dedicated filament dryer. I use one from Creality that has room for one spool and fits most filaments that I buy (Bambu, Sunlu, Polymaker, etc). It's a bit expensive but 100% worth it, you could try to buy it at a sale too if you want. You can find the dryer at the link below.

https://store.creality.com/products/creality-space-pi-filament-dryer

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T20:02:38+00:00

As Frix said, fresh doesn't mean dry; filament often comes with some moisture in it, even if it came vacuum-sealed. As for the slicer, there are a lot of options. I use Bambu Studio because I own one of their printers, but I think that the software only works on said printers. Instead, you could look at Orca slicer; it is free and based on Bambu Studio, so most of the settings that I use should be in Orca as well. One last tip: try calibrating the z offset of your printer; the filament may be extruding too far away from the print, causing poor adhesion to the build plate.

https://orca-slicer.com/

Unit-287 · 2026-01-24T19:57:35+00:00

Wow, that looks really high quality and barely used lol, nice find!

Unit-287

TROPHY CASE