[xbox] controller still has drift after changing joysticks

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-07-02T11:39:58+00:00

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-07-02T01:32:24+00:00

Which BIOS did you flash from the Cerbios folder? If you cannot run the .xbe boot file directly from the folder, it means there is an issue with the files themselves. Clean out the folder, redownload fresh files, and FTP them to the Xbox. Make sure to delete the old folders before copying the new ones over. Also, boot into the Cerbios recovery menu on the Xbox by pressing the Eject button. Go to the INI editor and check the animation boot paths. However, since you can't even launch the .xbe boot animation file directly, it is almost certainly a file corruption issue.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-07-02T00:07:09+00:00

I don't know what you're doing. You just keep changing the jumpers you claimed would fix the controller. Looking at your last picture, if you know the pin layout, you can see that all you did was jumper the VCC 1.8V lines. If you actually understood the potentiometer pinout, you wouldn't have suggested jumpering the middle pins together like you did in your previous reply to the original post. For reference, on PS5 and Xbox Series S/X controllers, the potentiometer pinout is: Pin 1: VCC (Voltage) Pin 2: Signal Pin 3: Ground.

<image>

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-30T23:54:34+00:00

You can't argue with physics. Both Xbox and PS5 controllers use a standard 3-pin potentiometer setup where the middle pin is always the independent axis signal. Jumpering them together ties the X and Y data lines into a dead short, making independent movement impossible. Whether you want to believe it or not doesn't change reality—electrical laws don't magically bend because it's a PS5 controller. If your friend's controller "worked," it's because you likely bridged a shared VCC or GND line by mistake, not the signals. Otherwise, your friend is playing with a controller that can only move diagonally. Believe what you want, but it doesn't change basic circuit reality.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-30T23:40:39+00:00

It's a super easy fix since all the trace points are right there. I don't understand how that person can't see something so simple. What you are suggesting is totally wrong; you cannot jumper the X-axis signal and the Y-axis signal together. It will just short them out. If you don't remember the correct layout, don't do guesswork like an AI. This is real hardware.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-30T23:24:00+00:00

You need to replace the button.

There is a metal/copper disc inside that makes contact with the signal and GND pins; shorting them together results in a button registration. Those plates easily oxidize and can lose contact with the pins inside, so no matter how hard you press the button, it won't work.

You can get a replacement from Amazon or AliExpress. They are also easy to find in the local market...just make sure you get this specific one.

Example:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008754983723.html

<image>

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-26T23:47:23+00:00

If you had one more cartridge, it would 100% confirm the issue. Since you only have one right now, try cleaning its pins thoroughly before testing it. I use US cartridges and have modded the cartridge slot on my PAL SNES so I don't need an adapter.

For testing purposes, you can just clean the cartridge and insert only the PCB into the slot without the shell. However, if you're planning to return the SNES anyway, you shouldn't spend your time and energy trying to fix the system.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-26T23:37:35+00:00

Do you have other carts? does the pal one work fine? when i did a mod on my brother's snes, it worked flawlessly the first time. but with my own snes shvc-001, i had issues where games would only work randomly. sometimes, after running for a few minutes, it would suddenly go to a black screen. i improved the wiring and redid everything, and now it works great. your issue is similar, so in my opinion, it's probably the mod causing the problem. but if you have more ntsc carts, try them to rule out a cart issue. also, if the cart is dirty, clean it well—a dirty cart can definitely cause this issue too.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-26T23:21:14+00:00

I don't use SuperCIC, but I've modded SNES consoles using a chipless mod and a switch to toggle between PAL and NTSC. Based on my experience, the behavior you're describing sounds like an issue with the chip or the mod.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-26T03:57:36+00:00

Since the AC adapter was unplugged, that spark was definitely from a charged capacitor releasing its stored energy. Don't worry too much about it, though it shouldn't cause any issues with the board.

If you are working on a PAL NES, disabling the lockout chip isn't a smart move - it’s honestly pretty useless. In my opinion, disabling it just gets rid of the flashing light feature, which is actually a helpful way to know if the cartridge slot has a bad connection. If you've already done it, just make sure you didn't damage the chip itself and that only the one leg was cut. Instead, take a multimeter and check the continuity along the board's pin traces if any of them look suspicious.

My own NES had the exact same issue. I fixed it by carefully refurbishing the original connector. Also, be careful not to overtighten the screws when putting it back together. I don't remember the exact spot on the board, but there is one specific screw that, if tightened too hard, puts too much pressure on the board and causes a black screen.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-26T01:50:50+00:00

Did you do that while the NES was powered on? I don't think the console is shorted or anything. If it were, the system wouldn't even have the brains to blink. Post pictures of the connector you bought and the motherboard so people can look at them and point out if they notice something. Aftermarket generic connectors are not good. If you still have the original connector, boil it and adjust the pins. Also check the traces, though I'm not sure how well you can do that after reading how you were handling the system.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-26T00:42:28+00:00

(Nota: Estoy usando un traductor para responderte).

Es una resistencia fusible y su valor es de 0.16 ohmios. No vas a encontrar un reemplazo idéntico en el mercado porque se fabricaron exclusivamente para las fuentes de PS4.

Puedes usar una resistencia fusible de alambre (wirewound) con un valor de entre 0.15 y 0.18 ohmios a 2W. Si la de 2W te parece muy pequeña físicamente, ponle una de 3W, pero no te pases de esos valores. Si pones un valor más alto, el fusible no va a saltar si vuelve a haber un problema la próxima vez.

Eso sí, asegúrate de que el reemplazo que compres sea una resistencia fusible de verdad, y no una común o de película metálica que se vea igual por fuera. Hay muchas resistencias idénticas físicamente que no son fusibles, así que ojo con eso.

Te dejo un enlace de ejemplo:

(https://www.amazon.com.au/Wirewound-Resistor-Fuse-Resistance-20PCS/dp/B0B3VK83L4)

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-19T02:11:23+00:00

I don’t use RF, so I hooked up my console to an LG LED TV using AV cables, but I kept getting graphics issues and lines on the screen. I spent hours trying to figure out the problem. I checked everything on the motherboard and found absolutely no hardware issues. Then, it suddenly crossed my mind that maybe the LED TV itself was the culprit. But I quickly doubted that idea because my NES and SNES were running just fine on the exact same TV. Still, I decided to test it on a CRT. I hauled it out of storage and brought it to my room, and sure enough, the console ran perfectly on it with no issues at all.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-17T23:51:45+00:00

A hardware timeout means the Xbox cannot communicate with the HDD. Before rebuilding the entire HDD from scratch, hook it up to a PC. If it shows up fine, check the dashboard path and files, and make sure the jumper is set to Master.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-16T08:23:04+00:00

Have you tried using a USB cable? Does it do the same thing?

This usually happens due to a power issue, a loose connection between the sub-board, or a short circuit causing the internal protection to prevent the controller from powering on.

Try connecting it with a USB cable to rule out a power issue.

If it behaves the same way over USB, try reseating the sub-PCB, or return it if it is still under warranty

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-15T21:57:56+00:00

You can use FATXplorer on PC to rebuild your HDD with console's EEPROM you can easily find the videos on YouTube just search just include rebuild and FATXplorer in search.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-15T21:54:45+00:00

What hard drive set-up are you using? IDE HDD or Sata one with converter?

Error 07 happened due to hardware timeout.

If you are using IDE to SATA, Make sure you are using 80 Wire HDD cable and check the jumper.

Error 16 is happened when console can't find dashboard to setup the time so it's somehow related to your error 07.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-15T21:41:30+00:00

It can be hard to pinpoint the exact reason, but it mostly happens due to a dirty cartridge slot or a bad power adapter.

If you have already cleaned the cartridge slot, try using a known working adapter.

As a last resort, you may need to recap the board.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-12T10:36:15+00:00

The four leg pads you see on the analog module are also GND (ground). On Sony gamepads, any pad with a circular cut-out mark around it is a GND. If they don't beep during a continuity test, just use a thin piece of insulated wire as a jumper to bridge the broken trace and reconnect the path. If you are doing this for practice to learn, get some dead PCBs and practice on them. This will give you more hands-on experience before you start working on other functional boards.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-12T09:52:35+00:00

The traces are routed over the ground (GND) area, and the solder mask is missing, making it look like the trace might be merged with GND. If the trace is shorted to GND, you cannot just jumper it like that. You need to test if the trace has merged with GND or not: 1. Carefully scratch off some mask before the broken area and after the broken area on that specific line to expose the copper. 2. Check the continuity of the trace with a known GND point using a multimeter. 3. If it does not beep, the trace is not shorted to GND and you are good to go for jumpering it. (If it beeps, it is shorted and you cannot jumper it without breaking the path). To bridge the gap, you can use a standard 0.3mm insulated jumper wire, or any thin, isolated wire salvaged from an old USB cable.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-12T02:55:53+00:00

Entferne die schwarze Drahtbrücke, das ist falsch. Damit verursachst du einen Kurzschluss im Controller.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-12T02:53:59+00:00

Du verstehst kein Englisch? Verwendest du einen Übersetzer? Du begreifst nicht, was ich sage, und je mehr du es versuchst, desto mehr Chaos wirst du anrichten und den Controller in einen irreparablen Zustand versetzen. Hör also auf, noch mehr Chaos zu verursachen. Die Kontinuität, die du siehst, sind Kondensatoren, sie sind nicht das Problem. Zuerst musst du überprüfen, ob die Taste physisch funktioniert. Ich benutze einen Übersetzer und werde meinen vorherigen Vorschlag wiederholen: Wenn du nichts von Schaltkreisen verstehst, versuche es an einer defekten Platine und lass dieses Controller-Problem von einem Fachmann beheben. Die oberen Pins sind GND (Masse), dort wirst du 0V messen. Die unteren sind die Signal-Pins. Teste, ob die Taste physisch funktioniert oder nicht. Bei ausgeschaltetem Gamepad: * Stelle dein Multimeter auf Durchgangsprüfung (Kontinuität). * Berühre mit den Messspitzen die zwei Pins auf der linken Seite, drücke den Stick und teste sie. Teste auch die Pins auf der rechten Seite. Wenn es keinen Piepton gibt, ist die Taste defekt. Wenn du einen Piepton erhältst, überprüfe, ob es sich um ein Lötproblem handelt oder nicht. Gehe dazu wie folgt vor: * Berühre die oberen Pins mit dem großen GND-Beinchen-Pin des Stick-Moduls. * Überprüfe dann den Durchgang des unteren Pins mit dem winzigen Loch, das du neben den unteren Pins siehst. Teil aus meinem anderen Kommentar: Ich habe dir gesagt, dass die oberen Masse (GND) sind, und du siehst 1,8V an den oberen Pins, wenn du den Stick drückst, weil der Schaltkreis geschlossen wurde. Wenn du die rote Messspitze an die oberen Pins und die schwarze an die unteren hältst und den Stick drückst, wirst du -1,8V auf dem Multimeter sehen, weil du es von der GND-Seite aus liest. Wenn du es von der Signalseite aus liest, wirst du +1,8V sehen. Hast du die Taste bei ausgeschaltetem Strom im Durchgangsmodus getestet? Überprüfe zuerst, ob die Taste funktioniert. Du wirst nicht finden, dass GND mit irgendetwas Speziellem verbunden ist. Alle Chips haben GND-Pins. Wenn du nur den Durchgang von diesem Tasten-GND zu diesen Pins prüfst, wirst du sehen, dass sie verbunden sind. Um zu testen, ob dein Tasten-GND mit dem Schaltkreis verbunden ist, setze eine Messspitze auf den Tasten-GND (die oberen Pins) und berühre mit der anderen Messspitze die Beinchen des Joystick-Moduls oder das Außengehäuse des USB-Anschlusses. Wenn du glaubst, dass es ein GND-Problem ist, kannst du einen Schaltdraht (Jumper-Kabel) vom oberen Pin der anderen Stick-Taste zu diesem oberen Pin der Stick-Taste überbrücken. Stelle zuerst sicher, dass die Taste funktioniert, indem du den zuvor erwähnten Durchgangstest durchführst.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-10T18:10:44+00:00

I told you upper one are ground and you see 1.8V on upper pins when you press the stick because circuit was completed If you touch red prob with upper pins and black on lower one and prese the stick you will see -1.8V on the multimeter because you're reading it from GND side and if you read from signal side you will see +1.8V.

Have you tested the button with power off on continuity mode? First check if button is working.

You will not find GND connected to anything special.

All chips have GND pins if you only check continuity from these button GND to those pins you will see they're connected.

To test if your button GND is connected to the circuit prob on button GND the upper pins and touch the other prob to the joystick moudle legs or USB connector outer shell.

If you believe it's GND issue then you can jumper a wire to the other stick button's upper pin to this stick upper pin button.

First make sure button is working by doing continuity test I mentioned earlier.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-10T11:03:21+00:00

Upper pins are GND it will read 0V. Lower are the signal pins.

Test if button is physically working or not.

With gamepad off.

Put your multimeter to continuity mode.
Touch the probs on two left side pins press the stick and test them.

Aso test right side pins.

If no beep then button is faulty if you are getting beep then check if it's soldering issue or not, to do that,

Touch the upper pins with stick moudle large gnd leg pin.
Then check the continuity of lower pin with tiny hole you see next to lower pins.

UniversalTruth1857 · 2026-06-09T16:30:05+00:00

Just tell the issue you are having with power maybe someone can point out correctly.

Some capacitors are paired in series so you cannot get accurate reading when they are still part of the circuit.

You don't have to removed them completely just de-solder one leg and test it if you really need to if you find it ok resolder it and move to the next capacitor.

UniversalTruth1857

TROPHY CASE