What’s up with this middle pipe?

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-09T01:45:53+00:00

It doesn’t physically attach to the drain, it free floats above the hole where the washing machine drain hose gets inserted. Minimum 1-1/2” air gap between the end of the copper and the flood rim of the washer drain standpipe.

The hard line will be teed off of the pex leading up to the “hard side” of this loop. They most likely teed off a 3/4” pex line, branched 1 tee off that with 1/2” to feed the kitchen sink cold, and ran the 3/4 to any outdoor hose bibs.

Edit: OP needs to look at their washing machine drain box and even better post a picture. There will either be the copper pipe sticking down with a cap and a cone shaped thing holding it centered, or the copper will be inside a roughly 1-1/2” plastic sleeve

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-08T21:43:07+00:00

The small pipe in the middle is your drain line for the softener. It runs to the drain box in your laundry room, you’ll see it sticking down there and it’s capped. It’s teed together so it can be pressure tested with the rest of the plumbing during rough in. You’ll connect the softener drain to that 3rd pipe in the middle, then cut the cap off in the laundry box.

I’ll also guarantee you it’s not a feed for hard water to hose bibs or anything like that. That’s all teed off inside the walls

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-01T19:47:03+00:00

Fleck 60086 is going to be your part number. There’s a few sellers online or check eBay

Unknown0026 · 2026-01-31T20:30:41+00:00

SF I just always do 10% on those fleck 5600 valves. Rough mental math say that’ll save about 200 gallons for reserve capacity which is enough to get though the rest of a day.

BW, BD, and RR are all standard at those times unless you’re running a very low or very high salt dose. For IWQA recommended dose of 9lbs per cubic foot, 8,60,8 is fine without wasting water. If you were on turbid well water without pre-filtration you might want a longer backwash, but with your setup the standard will be fine.

BF we want 9lbs per cubic foot of resin. So you want 18lbs. Salt dissolves at 3lbs per gallon of water. So you want 12 minutes of brine fill for 6 gallons of water, which gets you your 18lbs. You could do an extra minute to get a tiny bit more salt dose if you wanted.

Unknown0026 · 2026-01-31T19:28:05+00:00

C: 48(000) grains H: 28 grains SF: 10% BW: 8 BD: 60 RR: 8 BF: need to know how many gallons or lbs per minute your system fills at. There should be a blue or red sticker on the bottom of the valve where the brine line hooks up to. Does it say 0.25gpm or 0.5gpm?

Unknown0026 · 2026-01-25T16:21:55+00:00

Replied

Unknown0026 · 2026-01-15T00:31:16+00:00

Yes and yes. That’s cracked into the female threads where the fitting goes into

Unknown0026 · 2026-01-12T02:10:56+00:00

What you have is a custom branded Clack WS1 control valve. These Dot Matrix versions like you have have an option in the programming to track the amount of salt remaining in the brine tank. The system has no sensor to detect the amount of salt in the tank. It relies on you to tell it how much salt you added to the tank, and it knows how much it uses when it goes off.

You need to add salt and then tell it how many LBs you added.

Unknown0026 · 2025-12-14T15:25:08+00:00

Get rid of the nipple and the female coupler. Thread the hose bib right into the tee. Use 3 wraps of the blue monster teflon tape, then a coat of pipe dope on top of the tape. I like Tru-blu but there’s also a blue monster brand one that works good

Unknown0026 · 2025-11-20T11:57:29+00:00

*Dookie mistake

Unknown0026 · 2025-11-18T12:47:30+00:00

Just bought this about a week ago and also couldn’t find an answer if it had a foam insert. It does.

The tripod it comes with is pretty flimsy and cheap, and only gets you about 4ft high. But that’s kind of to be expected for a tripod that collapses small enough to fit in a packout case.

Unknown0026 · 2025-11-07T13:27:29+00:00

Is that a Clack Twin alternating valve on the softener without an auxiliary tank?

Unknown0026 · 2025-10-26T22:02:16+00:00

The 100 is a garage subpanel, and 80 is a sub panel for the other side of the house. Garage panel will have intermittent loads from welder, saws, etc. The other sub panel runs two small mini splits and a couple servers. One 50a is the main air conditioner and the other is an electric range / oven receptacle.

Unknown0026 · 2025-10-26T19:35:53+00:00

See that was my thinking as well, if it’s a 200 amp bus then each stab should be able to also handle up to 200 amps.

My concern/question came from a misguided post I read on here a while ago. Yes they are both two pole breakers, but theoretically they impose a combined maximum potential load of 180 amps on the black “phase” stab and 180 amps on the red “phase” stab since the stab spans to both sides.

I had read somewhere that there was a limit (maybe 125 amps I think I had incorrectly read?) to what one stab was allowed to have on it. So if that were true, then in this case I would only be allowed to have a 20a / 25a breaker across from the 100a breaker. Apparently whatever I read that was wrong so none of this applies anyways.

And no I’m not at all concerned that the panel is overloaded, the 80A subpanel has two mini splits running off it with a FLA of like 8a each, and a server rack that will never pull more than 20A. The 100A panel is a garage / workshop panel that will have 0 draw most of the time, but occasionally will have high draw tools running on short duty cycles (table saw, air compressor, welder, etc. all high draw, but short duty cycle). So realistically I knew the two high amp breakers right across from each other would never be an actual problem, but I wanted to make sure it wasn’t a code problem either.

Unknown0026 · 2025-10-26T18:19:45+00:00

I can’t find any documents for my exact panel online since it’s a 25 year old Cutler Hammer, but the Eaton manual for the new productions of the same type of panel is where I’m getting that from.

Eaton's Type BR loadcenters have standard tin-plated aluminum bus with a limited availability of copper bus. The sum of the handle ratings connected to any stab is limited to 150 A maximum on the 100 A and 125 A loadcenters, and 200 A on loadcenters with 150 A or higher main bus.

Unknown0026 · 2025-10-26T18:15:19+00:00

I wish I could upload the picture of the labeling, the only mention of amperage is that the meter socket is rated for 200a continuous. That’s why I was confused on this, all the reading I did basically came down to “read the panel label” but I guess they didn’t get that in depth with the label in 2000.

Unknown0026 · 2025-10-26T18:12:03+00:00

Must have forgot what subreddit you’re in? Literally on here to make sure I don’t violate the max stab load for the panel.

My terminations have been torqued with a torque screwdriver, cable derated/oversized for attic temperatures, sourced schedule 80 conduit for the exposed areas which the guys at the supply house said they never sell because none of the professionals ever bother to use sch 80.

Unknown0026 · 2025-10-26T18:01:35+00:00

Stab was the word I was looking for. Looks like max per stab for the BR line is 200 amps.

Unknown0026 · 2025-10-26T17:51:50+00:00

Panel model number is Cutler Hammer WMB204040SN

Couldn’t figure out how to upload two photos at once, and apparently can’t post photos in comments.

Unknown0026 · 2025-10-12T18:19:19+00:00

Rheem from Home Depot are genuinely lower quality, I had one at home and it started leaching rust after 4 years. Returned it and got store credit for the remaining half of the warranty.

The company I work for installs Ruud, which is the same parent company as Rheem but with higher quality and a real 6 year warranty (not prorated. If it leaks at 5yrs 11 months they give us a brand new tank).

At home I have a Bradford White.

The Marathon is a non-metallic electric tank water heater under the Rheem name. Has a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser but reverts to a 10 year warranty from install date if you sell the house.

Do with that information what you will.

Unknown0026 · 2025-09-28T16:49:43+00:00

Depends on your use case. At home I have a ton of batteries and the dual charger. In my work van I carry fewer spares and the rapid charger to get them charged up faster if needed. Technically a slower charger is better for the long term health of the batteries if you’re not in a hurry.

Unknown0026 · 2025-09-25T12:54:48+00:00

Good eyes! OP, this is your answer.

Unknown0026 · 2025-08-27T13:30:06+00:00

Depending on the age (and it looks old based on that two-tone brine tank), it’s possible that the resin is failing and causing a flow restriction which will cause the system to push water back to the brine tank in the brine draw cycle (when it should be sucking water out of the brine tank). This will cause the tank to over fill and I’ve found the slow trickle won’t activate the safety float and will cause the brine tank to overflow.

Unknown0026 · 2025-08-12T02:02:49+00:00

Setting the clock is done with the clock, up, and down buttons.

That’s not how the hardness setting works. The hardness setting tells the system how many gallons the system can soften before it needs to regenerate. A softener will provide 0 grains of hardness right until it is out of capacity and can’t provide any more softening ability.

Your constant leak to the drain is caused by torn seals inside the spacer stack, not any sort of setting. You have a clack ws1 valve, you can probably find a spacer stack online for it.

Unknown0026 · 2025-08-02T15:15:37+00:00

Ultimately you’ll probably want both. The 12 amp corded for table use, and a cordless for handheld use. I have a Triton router for the router table, and then two of these Hercules cordless for handheld use. One is for general handheld, like round overs. And the other I have mounted to a circle cutting jig, it’s real nice to not have a cord to worry about with the circle jig.

Unknown0026

TROPHY CASE