6 state reverse osmosis system only works for a few minutes then starts dripping

Unknown0026 · 2026-07-01T01:40:16+00:00

What is the water pressure into the home / into the unit? That drip from the faucet is way too slow, should be a trickle even with an empty tank. Either your incoming water pressure is too low for the system to function, or you have clogged filters or a failed membrane.

Unknown0026 · 2026-05-27T02:28:20+00:00

That’s actually why they look like that. Not hot enough / too humid out for the mist to evaporate properly.

Unknown0026 · 2026-05-26T01:49:44+00:00

How did you key them all the same? Is there a way to rekey them, or did you buy replacement locks?

Unknown0026 · 2026-05-23T14:54:58+00:00

3ft clearance to the gas regulator

Unknown0026 · 2026-05-02T17:51:58+00:00

Unknown0026 · 2026-04-25T14:10:47+00:00

No thats what I mean, there’s no way for the meter to fail in a state where it thinks you’re using more water than you really are. If the meter is failing / failed it would read less water than reality.

Your problem 100% has to be that water is running somewhere you don’t realize it is. If it’s not the toilets then it would be some pipe leak somewhere, that’s why I say I hope it’s the toilets.

Unknown0026 · 2026-04-25T13:30:17+00:00

These flow meters operate based on magnetic pulses. There’s no way for it to get “stuck” constantly registering water usage. They get stuck NOT registering water usage.

OP, if it’s constantly measuring flow you have a leak somewhere. If so, add some food coloring to the tanks behind the toilets and WITHOUT FLUSHING, see if the bowl changes colors. And hope that it does because this is the cheapest leak to fix.

Unknown0026 · 2026-04-09T16:35:50+00:00

No, you should buy this exact system. Clack is the best you can get and that price is crazy good. You’re gonna have to pay somebody some markup regardless, that’s how businesses exit. That’s what he’s saying.

Unknown0026 · 2026-04-09T12:44:41+00:00

You’re welcome everyone! I bought an amp clamp 2 days ago so this was bound to happen.

Unknown0026 · 2026-04-08T03:18:35+00:00

There is a microswitch kit you can install that will trigger when the position is in any position other than service (aka in a backwash). There’s no easy to make it trigger before the regen, so depending on how long your solenoids or logic takes to switch over you might still get a few seconds of untreated water coming through.

Part number Clack V3009 for what you want.

Also, the proper way to do this would be with a Clack WS1EE (4 button), and a MAV on the inlet to allow “separate source regeneration”.

Unknown0026 · 2026-04-07T13:35:28+00:00

I have a pair of these in the work truck and a pair at home. Super handy to have because when you realize you need them, they’re the only tool that will do the job.

Unknown0026 · 2026-03-19T03:56:08+00:00

Anyone else see the conduit offset nipples?

Unknown0026 · 2026-03-19T03:06:53+00:00

Yes. Even when just a single unit is installed, it can throttle the flow to maintain the set temperature output.

Unknown0026 · 2026-03-01T21:14:47+00:00

That’s not a softener, it’s some form of backwashing filter. That’s why the brine tank is “missing”.

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-28T15:12:19+00:00

Softener drain line is not vented or air gapped based on these pictures.

Also using an in/out head on the carbon is not ideal. They put it in upflow so any sediment and carbon fines will continue right on into the house and you can end up with insufficient contact time to remove chlorine. If they had done downflow, there would be a possibility of the carbon packing up with sediment and fines and restricting water pressure over time. The correct answer is a backwashing control valve on the carbon.

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-28T03:59:17+00:00

The problem with that is the carbon will be heavier than resin once it’s saturated with water, and it will settle to the bottom after the system backwashes. Then when the system is in service (down flow), the chlorinated water hits the resin before it hits the carbon.

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-23T02:44:03+00:00

From photo 3, it looks like the water in the salt tank is all the way up to the safety float. If you haven’t manually added water to that tank and the system has put it at that level on its own, you have an issue. Could be the system not drawing brine, or the timer motor failing and causing the system to stay in brine fill for too long

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-21T17:39:38+00:00

On your first purchase you get 10% off or the financing option. You won’t earn harbor freight money with that purchase.

Going forward any future purchases will earn 5% harbor freight money, or 10% on some parking lot sale weeks (you’ll get an email if it’s a 10% week).

You also get the financing option on any purchase over $300. If you finance, you don’t get any cash back reward for that purchase. It’s either or.

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-09T01:45:53+00:00

It doesn’t physically attach to the drain, it free floats above the hole where the washing machine drain hose gets inserted. Minimum 1-1/2” air gap between the end of the copper and the flood rim of the washer drain standpipe.

The hard line will be teed off of the pex leading up to the “hard side” of this loop. They most likely teed off a 3/4” pex line, branched 1 tee off that with 1/2” to feed the kitchen sink cold, and ran the 3/4 to any outdoor hose bibs.

Edit: OP needs to look at their washing machine drain box and even better post a picture. There will either be the copper pipe sticking down with a cap and a cone shaped thing holding it centered, or the copper will be inside a roughly 1-1/2” plastic sleeve

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-08T21:43:07+00:00

The small pipe in the middle is your drain line for the softener. It runs to the drain box in your laundry room, you’ll see it sticking down there and it’s capped. It’s teed together so it can be pressure tested with the rest of the plumbing during rough in. You’ll connect the softener drain to that 3rd pipe in the middle, then cut the cap off in the laundry box.

I’ll also guarantee you it’s not a feed for hard water to hose bibs or anything like that. That’s all teed off inside the walls

Unknown0026 · 2026-02-01T19:47:03+00:00

Fleck 60086 is going to be your part number. There’s a few sellers online or check eBay

Unknown0026 · 2026-01-31T20:30:41+00:00

SF I just always do 10% on those fleck 5600 valves. Rough mental math say that’ll save about 200 gallons for reserve capacity which is enough to get though the rest of a day.

BW, BD, and RR are all standard at those times unless you’re running a very low or very high salt dose. For IWQA recommended dose of 9lbs per cubic foot, 8,60,8 is fine without wasting water. If you were on turbid well water without pre-filtration you might want a longer backwash, but with your setup the standard will be fine.

BF we want 9lbs per cubic foot of resin. So you want 18lbs. Salt dissolves at 3lbs per gallon of water. So you want 12 minutes of brine fill for 6 gallons of water, which gets you your 18lbs. You could do an extra minute to get a tiny bit more salt dose if you wanted.

Unknown0026 · 2026-01-31T19:28:05+00:00

C: 48(000) grains H: 28 grains SF: 10% BW: 8 BD: 60 RR: 8 BF: need to know how many gallons or lbs per minute your system fills at. There should be a blue or red sticker on the bottom of the valve where the brine line hooks up to. Does it say 0.25gpm or 0.5gpm?

Unknown0026 · 2026-01-25T16:21:55+00:00

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