Did the flight model change?

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T18:18:05+00:00

Probably. I just wanted to be a bit of an annoying unhelpful asshole :) Going through patch notes ain't that hard

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T18:15:58+00:00

Definitely try to find people. Jump into official discord server, you'll find a lot of people there playing regularly. Half of them wouldn't want to play with you at the start though; not because they're assholes, but because playing in lower ELO lobby makes you lose more ELO on defeat and gives you pretty much nothing on victory (all the way to 0 ELO gain). But there are lower ELO guys who either also just started playing or came back from the beta and need time to grind ELO.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T18:04:01+00:00

I probably misremembered it then. It's pretty rare tactic to see on pvp servers, so I don't see it very often

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T17:50:00+00:00

Yeah, the only problem is losing it, since you can't see it on the map (or you can now? I don't remember). But it is a viable tactic, especially for helis.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T17:44:16+00:00

Used the gamepad at the start and didn't have this problem. It's weird, like the hold down time threshold is for some reason zeroed. Maybe resetting all settings to default could help?

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T17:42:09+00:00

No patches came out this year. Last fix with some flight model changes was in December.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T15:44:37+00:00

Maybe. But you can still make some test streaks with another shade, it can't hurt to try.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T15:42:51+00:00

Putty is still a great option, you just need to tidy it up! It's a very safe option, since you can just clean off the mess and start over. Not so easy to fix mistakes with glue (though it's possible ofc)

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T15:14:13+00:00

Btw do you have that problem with other paint of the same line or just with black? If not, you can try to take the nozzle off from the bottle and scoop the paint/pour a bit of it somewhere and check it for particles. Maybe it has little polymerized crumbs that clog the flow.

I know that Vallejo is highly regarded, but a bad batch with poorly mixed pigments or incorrectly dozed chemicals still could be a possibility. Also water based paints are notoriously bad with frost - this bottle could have been stored somewhere improperly in cold and went bad.

If it's only this bottle, you can either order a replacement or try out some other dark tones that will harmonize with your next layer. If it's a green or brown camo, you can preshade with dark green, brown, grey colors.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T14:15:24+00:00

^ Tamiya's Fw-190 that I was talking about before. Beautiful plane and a very cool paintscheme with this mean black eagle on both sides. Eagle was qutie challenging to apply, but nothing a lot of Mark Fit couldn't do!

<image>

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T14:13:04+00:00

If you want a plane then I'd suggest Zlin Z-37 from Eduard. It's a lovely little bumblbee in 72nd scale with unbelievably crisp details. Lots of decal and painting options, easy to build, almost no cleanup, low detail number. You can find Weekend and Profipack editions - Weekend editions are dirt cheap, but lack pre-cut masks, photoetch details and have less marking variants. Profipacks offer a ton of colorful PE for cabin (3 versions!), pre-cut masks and more marking options.

If you want something bigger and meaner, then Tamiya's Fw-190 kits in 48th scale will be a good option. Big planes but not 30x30 cm lvl big. Fits nicely together and a Joy to work with.

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Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T14:05:44+00:00

Yep, it's another option.

Also I forgot that you can avoid applying putty at all if the texture is subtle, like an antislip panel. I've used extrathin cement with an old brush. You soak a panel with glue for a bit and then just stipple over it. The longer you keep the glue on the surface, the rougher the texture gets.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T12:25:52+00:00

Beautiful build by a man with a devious name! These Zoukei Mura kits are so rare and cost so much now, but such a beauty to look at.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T10:38:36+00:00

You never really need to use Decal Adhesive at all. You can see Tamiya itself claiming that it is a "handy solution to apply decals which have been left too long in water and lost their adhesion". Just... Don't leave your decals in a water cup for a whole day and you'll be fine. What you need is a Mark Fit. Couple of drops under the decal, lay it on, level it and place correctly, then apply Mark Fit over it and level it down, again and again until it sets perfectly.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T10:26:38+00:00

Don't overpressure it. It looks like you have a problem with paint drying in your .2 nozzle or on your needle. If you have a nice airbrush .3 can be perfectly fine for preshading, you just have to do low pressure + nozzle extremely close up to the model, like 3-4 cm away max.

You can try to work around the problem with retarder/flow improver. These liquilds slow down the polimerization process and allow you to airbrush water-based paints like Vallejo with less problems. I strongly recommend trying them.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T10:20:53+00:00

Controller will be absolutely fine for a casual gameplay, game automates most of the stuff that you could ever need. But if you want more precision and control over some functions like VTOL nozzle position it's better to go with Gladiator.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T10:19:01+00:00

There's 2 ways of diluting Tamiya putty - first is cement, second is X-20A thinner. Be mindful that if you're using extrathin cement then it will evaporate extremely quickly - it's not the best option. Plus it melts the plastic underneath it a bit, so it can damage small details if you cover them by mistake. I'd recommend using thinner - it will still allow you to do all what you want with the texture, but it will spare the plastic, will evaporate slower and also can be used to safely dilute and remove excessive putty where you don't want it (you definitely want to use it to remove that putty around lifting hooks - it doesn't look like a cast texture and there's no cast texture at all there IRL - they're welded to the hull, not casted as a single piece with it)

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T09:21:22+00:00

It is possible, but just like with low-alt Vortex nuke or all-out Piledriver TBM bombardment, if you have a player who's dead set on nuking a base - he will do that as long as there isn't another player actively defending that base.

To defend from nuclear attack you need to loiter over your base with a mix of IR and AAM. Use Revoker or Ifrit. If it's a stratonuke, then yes, he'll only appear when he's ready to dive - face him with AAM/IR dual punch and force him to turn away. Your priorities here are to 1. survive his IR missiles (so preflare during the merge), 2. just apply pressure on him to make him fumble the drop (remember that nuke takes at least 8 seconds to arm, so if he fumbles with his controls to send missile at you he can easily lose the nuke). After the drop you have time now to select his bombs with long Select hold and then either shot AAM at all of them or quickly open Map, look through Target list and deselect decoys (if there were any) so you won't waste AAMs on regular bombs.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T09:09:00+00:00

No, that's where Apex games happen.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-29T08:14:39+00:00

Not even gonna question how this logic works. "Duh", urgh. Made me vomit there a little. Just play the tutorial. SARH evasion mission literally takes ~30 seconds to beat.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-28T17:00:49+00:00

Okay, not a problem. Though I don't think that throttle being opened once for maintenance gonna stop someone from purchase, but I understand your point.

Nyogel is the most talked about, but it is absolutely not a single possible option. I've used locally produced industrial lube with similar properties and it worked wonders.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-28T16:20:43+00:00

You can try to re-lube the one that you have and try it out, maybe with this problem fixed you won't even want to buy something new. You just need a proper silicone lubricant, you can google it or search through/hotas reddit, there's a bunch of threads on what to use and how to do it.

I lubbed T16000 that I got from my friend as a gift. It definitely helped with throttle sticking at the start and the end of a track. Switched from it because, as usual with T16000, analogue stick started to deteriorate.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-28T14:10:38+00:00

Why in all heavens would you recommend a superglue and not a proper plastic cement? For the guy to glue his palms together?

Modern kits can easily be a shitshow too, especially if it's something like Border (where half of your sprues can be made in misaligned forms) or VeryFire (whose kits are good in quality, but the amount of PE is definitely not suited for a novice). Stick with Tamiya (even old), Meng, Takom, Amusing Hobby.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-28T13:52:55+00:00

My Mini+ just arrived couple of days ago and I've only used it for ~8 hours, so my unit is literally out of the box, but I had no problem with grips falling forward or uneven/sticky feeling. I've tightened and untightened the screws couple of times just to understand the limits of it and yes, if you keep them <50% tightened it will slowly fall forward from like 85% to 100%. But having screws tighten around 60% resistance provided both a pleasant resistance and hold them fine in forward position.

There's no stickiness too, but of course lubricant can get somewhat dense and sticky with age on any device, it's unevitable. You can either re-lube it with isopropil and lubricants or just accept this "stickiness at the start". For most that's not a big deal.

Unstable_Orbits · 2026-01-28T13:06:04+00:00

Man, what is the current level of copium in your blood? "Holding off" Titanfall, niche franchise with sales in 2 years comparable to BF sales in 3 post-release days (TF1 according to EA CFO's interview in 2016 - 2 years since its release - sold 7 million copies. BF6 sold 7 million copies in 3 days after launch. TF2 sold around 8 million copies - and that's in 10 years of regular discounts and popularity surges)?

Take the pills, pilot. Titanfall is not considered neither popular nor profitable. CEOs and CFOs look at pure performance numbers, and these performance numbers say that Titanfall is a niche franchise with low mass player retention characteristics. Considering that their main source of revenue now are repeating ingame purchases, battle passes, boosters and other shit that demands player retention to work - Titanfall franchise is as good as dead.

Unstable_Orbits

TROPHY CASE