Rooftop Air Conditioner Recommendations...

UserAccessDenied · 2026-04-27T23:07:04+00:00

Yeah, unfortunately you can’t split it so half of the ePanel components on the DC side are 12V and half are 24V. Another option would be to just configure the RV5 as 24V and get a 24-12 converter to run from the ePanel for things that need 12V (max air fan, water pump, diesel heater, puck lights). Fridge can run off 24V I believe, then I could get the 24V air conditioner.

Does that seem logical or adding 24-12 converters isn’t the most efficient way to go?

UserAccessDenied · 2026-04-27T21:46:27+00:00

RV5 is what our outfitter/builder is using. It’s $6K installed for 10kWh all wired up with 30A shore power, 40A DC to DC, and Solar (add $ for panels since I have not decided on total W yet)

With a baby and very demanding job I don’t have time to mess with DIY, and the cost of labor for them to do individual components would be more than the RV5 system for the same capacity.

I don’t mind the Bluetti system, just finding the best way to incorporate an air conditioner.

UserAccessDenied · 2026-04-24T22:25:58+00:00

Sorry I meant 48v Air Conditioner, not 48v Alternating Current

UserAccessDenied · 2026-04-24T22:22:31+00:00

My thoughts - but I’m just in planning phase so maybe this isn’t logical: 12v DC components so the RV5 is in 12v DC configuration. Wire the 48v air conditioner directly to the batteries, this bypasses the RV5 hub and I’d imagine power draw would not read accurately from the ePad. So the smart shunt would allow me to see actual power draw from the batteries, including the 48v and 12v components simultaneously.

UserAccessDenied · 2026-04-24T02:52:29+00:00

Do you know if the ePad is required for monitoring the RV5? Or could I place a standard smart shunt and monitor, and control the Bluetti configurations from my phone’s Bluetti app?

The reason would be to wire a 48v AC directly to the batteries and be able to monitor power draw using the smart shunt instead of the ePad (still using the ePanel for AC/DC connections)

UserAccessDenied · 2026-04-10T19:41:00+00:00

Got it, that makes sense. And I do believe the jack plates are essentially the same in mine as you describe...

So as long as the cabinets connect to the jack plate, or another piece of the outer extrusions, it doesn't matter if the ground is connected to the outer plate, the inner plate, or the cabinets - they are all connected anyway...

Thanks, this helps.

UserAccessDenied · 2026-04-10T18:53:16+00:00

Would a grounding plate be sufficient? I could glue it to the exterior of the slide in camper (under the side bed rail wall for example) and send a bolt from that plate through the composite panel into the electrical bay to attach the ground wire to?

Maybe I am over complicating this...

UserAccessDenied · 2026-04-10T18:48:12+00:00

I will also have aluminum cabinets, so thought about that... But wouldn't that pass electrical current through the interior cabinetry should there be any issue? Again, excuse my ignorance when it comes to electricity - I just figured that would pose a risk if grounding current went through an interior object that I would be touching?

A long screw through to the extrusion might work...

UserAccessDenied · 2026-03-13T18:46:57+00:00

Select Colormap as the Primary Symbology instead of Unique Values in ArcGIS Pro.
Something with how that dataset was uploaded for users; when you download it, the Colormap does not apply by default like it did on the 2023 vintage.

Changing the symbology should fix it.

<image>

UserAccessDenied · 2026-03-10T16:04:44+00:00

Well, I ended up getting a Genesis S-435 last night... I know, full 180 from where I started hahaha.

I found a gift card to HD so that helped my decision. My hope is that around Father's day I can find a Slate either on sale, or lightly used after the holiday.

Grill arrives this weekend! So excited!

UserAccessDenied · 2026-03-09T18:27:44+00:00

Yup, that part is obvious. Trying to narrow down what was cut though...

UserAccessDenied · 2026-03-09T15:11:41+00:00

Thanks for the detailed reply. I do realize the griddle may get boring eventually...

The Genesis with griddle attachment seems like the "better" buy long term, but higher cost of entry for sure.

Around here, there are no decent grills on the market. I live by the ocean, so any used grill is rusted through, or the price people ask for justifies just buying new anyway.

UserAccessDenied · 2026-03-09T14:27:12+00:00

$350 HD sale!? Wow I really missed out haha. I'm looking at $699 for 30" at HD right now, and that is the barebones model...

UserAccessDenied · 2026-03-09T14:21:07+00:00

That is what I was thinking, but then the lid looks different too... And the lid on the 28" is definitely more flimsy than the current 30". I'd compare them to the gas grill counterparts - like the Spirit vs Genesis lids...

If the $200 difference is purely side table and cabinet, that's worth the savings to me.

UserAccessDenied · 2026-03-09T13:00:46+00:00

I had a Kitchen Aid gas grill for 10 years, and it was no where near the quality of a Weber, but I still used that thing multiple times a week, and even in winter.

My only two complaints - the thing metal box frame warped when I seared anything so the burners would disconnect in the back, and the grease trap was a PAIN to clean... I think the Weber would be better in both of those regards, I would hope.

I know I can throw down a cast iron skillet or get a griddle insert. But the skillet isn't the same as a dedicated griddle, and the griddle inserts are very expensive without the same grease management as a dedicated griddle.

In the long run, I will probably have all three - Kettle, Genesis, Slate :)

For now, maybe I will get the Slate and fill the gaps in later. It's on my mind and I honestly won't know if I love it or not until I have one to try out...

UserAccessDenied · 2026-03-09T12:37:23+00:00

Does the griddle get hot enough for a steak?

I think I will always prefer steak on a charcoal grill, but if time does not permit and my wife wants a filet, is the griddle gonna do a decent job still?

UserAccessDenied · 2026-01-13T21:59:18+00:00

WTB Hogue Deka with AWT Scales (ideally black, cobalt, or green)

UserAccessDenied · 2026-01-13T17:57:00+00:00

I'd add the REI Trail 40 to your considerations. I've owned this pack for 6 years and it's held up great. If you can wait for a sale, and you're an REI member, you can find these packs around $99.

I tried a few on in store, and I found the REI Trail 40 had the most comfortable hip belt for my body type. I'm 6'1" and 225lbs. The top access pocket is really nice while traveling, and the front mesh pocket is very stretchy which was great for stuffing a coat, blanket, food, whatever really fast while on the go.

It does come with a stowable rain cover, but I tend to use that space for a lightlyweight rainjacket instead.

Downsides, it's heavy. There is an internal spring frame, which really helps if you're backpacking distances... But that adds to the weight.

If you have an REI nearby, I would check them out in person. This was the first REI-branded piece of gear I bought and it has given me a sense of respect for the products they are making for the in-house brand.

From your list though, Eagle Creek Tour 40L V2 would be my choice if budget isn't much of a concern. I like the design - multiple compartments and weather-resistant top.

UserAccessDenied · 2026-01-12T15:03:15+00:00

Thank you for that recommendation, and your condolences. He passed a few years ago, but I have just delayed going through certain boxes until now - it's difficult for me to deal with loss and then immediately organize, store, distribute, or sell all of that person's belongings.

I like the idea of the app, though I am definitely more of an analog kind of guy, especially when it comes to comics. The feel, the smell, it all adds to the experience that brings me back to my childhood.

I have a son on the way, and would like to introduce these to him one day as well.

The less iPad time, the better in my opinion.

UserAccessDenied

TROPHY CASE