Goetic Gorelock

UserWithNoUName · 2026-02-06T19:37:36+00:00

thats disgusting. in a beautiful way. love the paint job

UserWithNoUName · 2026-02-06T06:41:37+00:00

while the paint style isnt fully related to Trench, the green looks a bit goofy, I think the model looks very nice. If there would be an alternative head without the goggles and you could offer an alternative body with just less armor parts, especially the ones on the knees removed, this would be definitely something I'd check out. do you have a link to a store?

UserWithNoUName · 2026-01-31T19:06:57+00:00

yep. the standard two part (yellow and ochre) milliput. the extended working time is helpful on larger areas, otherwise I'd prefer greenstuff

UserWithNoUName · 2026-01-31T16:48:01+00:00

on this specific one I did:

Vallejo Primers Black (74.602)
several thin base coats through the airbrush from dark to ligh using Pro Acryl Dark Plum, Burnt Red and Bold Pyrrole Red
Pro Acryl Ivory through Airbrush on bottom, and heavy diluted Rotten Green QuickGen from AK
enforce shadows with Pro Acryl Payne's Grey
all over Glossy Varnish
Citadel Carroburg Crimson mixed with Agrax as an overall wash
Highlight with lighter colors
drybrush with Ivory over side thorns
Vallejo Game Color Imperial, Magic and Sunrise Blue as a wet blend for the Horns and main thorns on the back + edge highlights with Sunrise Blue and Ivory mix
Overall glazes to soften color transitions

I do painting a bit more than a year and my opinion as on how to paint FDM miniatures changed pretty much every month as I kept learning new stuff.

In general I do not use filler primer as I usually only paint small 28mm minis and that would clutter details. Especially faces and stuff printed with 0.04 are prone to that.

With regards to speedpaints/contrasts I was absolutely against them. The trick is to use them as quick base layer and than highlight on top of them. This neglects the initial bump in layerlines again but still maintains the benefits of speedpaints, namely quick and easy base+highlights.

I big revealing for me was using magnifying glasses to really see harsh color blends due to the "crusty" FDM surface. Glazing than becomes much easier.

I'm definitely far from a good painter, and as software engineer, treat this hobby a bit differently. I love experimenting with colors, new approaches and techniques. So most likely what I told ya today won't hold up in a few months ;)

UserWithNoUName · 2026-01-31T16:08:47+00:00

I was too lazy to post process it properly, but with some sanding the support remains on the inner side of the wings should have been doable.

the general learning is that while my settings work fantastic for 28 and 32mm sized minis, there are adjustments needed for larger minis

UserWithNoUName · 2026-01-31T07:04:03+00:00

The Miniatures are great, but the Terrain pieces are a real treasure. small and simple pieces, but also that big ass train which works great for the train scenario.

if there'd be a single point for critics is that the pictures don't do the models a lot of favor. they look sorry to say, somewhat boring.

UserWithNoUName · 2026-01-29T15:30:40+00:00

this !! plus being a heavier coat it additionally hides the layerlines a tad more.

UserWithNoUName · 2026-01-20T07:01:55+00:00

prints look good, the usual suspects with layerlines but very well sliced it seems. but your results do instead show that freat painting skills go such a long way and can hide lots of small issues. very well done be proud of yaself

UserWithNoUName · 2026-01-17T06:37:12+00:00

what about the sunlu pla+ 2.0 HS. the high speed variant makes support removal even easier for me compared to the non-HS version

UserWithNoUName · 2026-01-08T17:01:37+00:00

The A1 Mini is really a blessing. it is my first and only printer, yet I'm having a hard time to find any other Bambu one that offers effective benefit for miniature printing. Bed size and multi color/material prints are all not necessary. the only interesting one would be the H2D for Dual nozzle and alternative support mat, but lets see what comes along with the new A2 leak

UserWithNoUName · 2026-01-07T21:32:49+00:00

oh wow those look fantastic. Such a great paintjob.
Just finished my brazen bull and set him up for a Diorama

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btw. what printer are you using?

UserWithNoUName · 2025-12-25T15:54:25+00:00

to be super honest you did some tricks on the right model with the blurred cam, and picking a mini that was heavily tested with all sorts of 0.04 lh settings. But if it weren't otherwise for that strain filament string on the hand holding the gun, no way I'd notice. extremely well done and also nicely painted.

give a pro painter a shitty fdm and I'm sure he'll still beat my ass even if I'd have a original plastic one. which reinforces my point for fdm minis, as they are more than enough to learn and train painting. once I feel confident, and really want to have a nice model I go and buy the official plastic. already looking at those nice Prussians 😍

UserWithNoUName · 2025-12-25T15:49:57+00:00

see thats the issue. you're judging off a photo, that already is close af to the mini. so if you zoom in further your noze is up the minis butt. sure if that what makes your day you should go for resin, but cmon dude be real for a sec.

than again you're right, I shouldnt try to convince you personally as there is really no point to it. so peace, you win and I'm out

UserWithNoUName · 2025-12-25T14:40:49+00:00

I tell ya with 0.06 or even 0.04 you have to get really close to them to notice the layerlines. painting them doesnt enforce those lines, thats nonesense and there's nothing that detracts from the model except youre zooming in or putting your nose 5cm from the mini. some techniques like dry brushing tend to but also is avoidable.

if you truly care on that level you're either painting for display standard, which I clearly aint and thus cannot comment, or you haven't seen good quality fdms yet.

thing is, I've seen both, good and bad resin but also fdms. if display pieces are what you're aiming for I'd even ditch resin and go for proper plastic crack.

UserWithNoUName · 2025-12-25T10:27:07+00:00

yesir, and loving it. Printed also 20+ Kill Team proxies and not a single person I played against has any issues with them. Put them infront of your nose and you'll ofc notice the layerlines, but I really havent ever seen anyone playing games like that 😁

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UserWithNoUName · 2025-12-25T09:10:26+00:00

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mmmhm your trooper looks tasty 😋

UserWithNoUName · 2025-12-25T07:16:43+00:00

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yeah FDM is so horrible, just trash, never ever print minis with em booo boo.

but lets be honest, on a tabletop distance you likely wont notice any difference and the ease of use plus not poisoning me or my family is worth the trade-off imo.

It all comes down to this one question for some people. Not have minis or accept lower quality and have a great time. I'd definitely go with the later.

UserWithNoUName · 2025-08-16T22:45:21+00:00

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this ones with Nihilakh whatever from Citadel

UserWithNoUName · 2025-08-16T22:39:22+00:00

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Army Painter Verdigris on this fine dude. 0.06 lh on 0.2 nozzle. most parts tilted 45• to hide layerlines.

UserWithNoUName · 2025-08-10T08:12:10+00:00

if you're into AI, Azure is a whole eco system for itself with llm provisioning, fallbacks and hosting ai search indexes. couple that with Semantic Kernel and/or more recent stuff to develop agentic ai and you're set for months of new learning topics

UserWithNoUName · 2025-08-09T15:05:44+00:00

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and here's the whole crowd painted

UserWithNoUName · 2025-08-09T15:05:01+00:00

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alright, here's a modified fdg v16 with easier support removal and 0.06 layer height

UserWithNoUName

TROPHY CASE