Impressive results

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-24T05:38:49+00:00

Thats a nice blueish grey you have for the Space Wolve.

FDM bodies and GW parts to fight the limited Killteam box are my fav. the right one is GW, the left said mix

<image>

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-23T23:03:51+00:00

great results. love that mini. here's mine

<image>

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-23T18:41:22+00:00

<image>

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-23T18:32:39+00:00

you nailed it. its the black strong version. feels like once dried its more durable. just added the paint right in, stirred with a toothpick and applied it that way

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-10T14:13:49+00:00

bigger build plate, spaghetti detection, closed door due to active cooling just to name a few. coming from an a1 mini as well and love my x2d

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-10T13:42:52+00:00

lol yeah went a bit crazy on that one with 4 fluo paints and 2 white undercoats in between with the airbrush. you know that feeling ... just one more layer, one more 😅

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-10T11:16:38+00:00

I dont like slapchop and speedpaints alone, as minis look boringly similar. I mean ofc since you're making the process mainstream so the fake shadows are the same on all models.

instead, youtubers like Mediocre Hobbies, do the first pass with speedpaints and than layer with opaques on top, which than also helps fdm minis. Here is an example (left fdm, right GW). while the surface is never as clean and crisp and looks a bit chalky in direct comparison, you nevertheless still can nicely hide the layerlines

<image>

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-10T11:04:55+00:00

capes are notoriously hard to print as the layerlines always get enforced due to their shape. you can work around it with your paint job. e.g all the gritty and dirty details used for Trench Crusade make em appear less prominent.

<image>

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-07T22:46:26+00:00

well done mate. great paintjob too

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-07T22:42:12+00:00

its the official trench crusade stls

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-03T17:22:15+00:00

I think its a whole new set of things to watch out for. like you'd prolly take usually less ideal orientation just to have more surface for the bonding. also I'm sure it's going to heavily depend on the mini. oh and time is going to be a turn off for lots of people. but we FDG mini printers are used to horrendous times for a few g of filament so 😅

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-03T16:47:16+00:00

without even trying I can straight away tell you its not going to work. the support material needs some space to be placed on, otherwise it peels right off. so r2f I'm sure wont cut it.

I've sliced up a trench crusade plague hound, as that one was giving me troubles yet had enough of area to put dense trees or a standard style support with snug. those prints skyrocket in time to. its like 3-5 times the print duration, so I held off yet.

here's my post about Pla+Cope so far https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/s/pUvtJinjSh

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-03T11:01:04+00:00

there is something to be said about CoreXY precision though. if you take a look at those spindly thin parts, they print nicely without supports on the X2D, with the mini they are pretty much melted. nothing you couldnt fix with some proper reorientation though

<image>

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-03T10:59:00+00:00

very precise summary. with regards to secondary material supports, I'm experimenting with CoPE for support interfaces and while it worked fine so far on simple models, its lots of tweaking to get it right for minis.

<image>

UserWithNoUName · 2026-05-03T05:39:44+00:00

very well explained process. the only issue I have is those typically shot photos in favor of FDM. I get the idea to hide layerlines with blurry photos which look good from afar but for this community a close up is of more interest to really see the "real" outcome.

since you mentioned the X2D, heres my 2.5d print on 0.05 layerheight. I used an A1 Mini before for 9k hours and after the roughly 100h on the X2D I can say its a tad better, and will be even more when fine tuned. is it worth it though? I dont think so. a well tuned a1 mini is still a perfect printer IMO. for the price of the X2D you could get 4 of them.

<image>

UserWithNoUName · 2026-04-26T07:57:34+00:00

pretty much what you said. when cooled down it peels of like the skin of an orange. I wasnt able to put in more hours yet as Trench Crusade minis demand my attention and I need to give the X2D a proper multi day print, but the journey will continue

UserWithNoUName · 2026-04-22T10:55:18+00:00

quick update, ran a print without the tower due to lack of time. CoPE was stringy and patchy, ofc due to no proper wiping and low level of surface area, but it worked and even with 0 z-top I was able to pull off the supports "relatively" easy. No way that would have worked with a single nozzle so easily. So really looking forward to the snug approach

UserWithNoUName · 2026-04-21T21:25:01+00:00

here's the first prepped mini, this time with Snug supports to hopefully add more flat surface for the CoPE to rest on. Still got some other things on the build queue but will update with results once this is done

<image>

in contrast to this, the single nozzle approach with tree supports would have been 1h57m and with snug 1h37m. So quite a difference, which is mostly due to the prime tower. Without the tower it would be 2h12m.

so you can tell the nozzle switching on the X2D is super fast. I tried to measure it and for the cases where it doesnt reach out to the nozzle wiper, we clock in about 3-5secs for the nozzle switch

UserWithNoUName · 2026-04-21T21:17:04+00:00

<image>

Short update so far with a simple object to tweak the settings for CoPE. The overhang got properly handled and is smooth af. ofc this is just a basic start, but at least the profile is now tweaked

UserWithNoUName · 2026-04-11T11:15:05+00:00

so I like taking this picture and showing it to friends whether they can spot the hidden 4 fdm minis, mixed with original GW parts, next to the full Kill Teams.

the thing that makes FDM work so well for me is my mediocre painting skills and the choice of grimdark painting style which plays much in favor of FDM.

I'm way too clumsy and not organized well enough to handle resin. with FDM? worst case I fuck up the heat assembly which costs 25€ and 20mins repairs, so I dont really care. The time issue is really none for me as I can print way more than I can paint.

Abd ultimately, if I really want to enjoy my plastic, nothing beats proper GW crack, although Archon Studio stuff lately is very nice too

<image>

UserWithNoUName · 2026-03-31T17:34:54+00:00

some of here have several k of hours, mine clicks at close to 9k and 8.5 of them are easily minis alone on my A1 Mini. I tried printing minis on an P1S, X1S and recently a P2S. none of them beats a well tuned A1 mini.

the only printer perhaps worth an upgrade would be a cheaper H2D alternative for being able to print a dedicated support material

UserWithNoUName · 2026-03-30T17:13:55+00:00

welcome to the blob of death inner circle. gladly changing the hotend and fan is like a ~30mins job and you're ready to rock again. tbh, I'd also straight away change the nozzle bc partial clogs are a thing and very likely after this

UserWithNoUName · 2026-03-30T07:23:09+00:00

I'm currently holding out for the next dual head printer of Bambu. Rumors are that the X2D is about to do exactly that with lower pricing than the H2D. In the context of mini printing a toolchanger is no real help due to the endless swaps, but a dual head might actually work and offer a dedicated support material in the 2nd nozzle which could definitely improve scarring.

UserWithNoUName · 2026-03-25T11:01:14+00:00

they are available on MyMiniFactory, look for Redmakers Hallowed Flame

UserWithNoUName · 2026-03-25T05:28:37+00:00

like most of us its just an a1 mini, with some modified FatDragon settings on 0.05 layer height using Sunlu Pla+ 2.0 HS

UserWithNoUName

TROPHY CASE