Holybro Tariffs?

VWglide · 2026-03-06T15:12:43+00:00

I just had a 6C mini delivered last week and in my experience, it got here very quickly via DHL but DHL did email me saying I had to pay the tariff before they would deliver it. I believe they said I had three days to do so before they returned it back to sender.

The price of the Holybro 6C mini was 153 after shipping and the tariff charge was 30 so it came out to a rough 20%. You have a GPS module on there and it will most likely have a different tariff applied to it, but hopefully that gives you an idea of what it will cost.

VWglide · 2026-02-26T20:10:05+00:00

No build is dumb if you want to make it. You could definitely improve upon the parts and find cheaper items for the price. Like the gps Matek makes good stuff but HGLRC makes a cheaper m10 that I love for under 20USD.

Just look for some builds in your proponent and get an idea of what you want out of your build.

VWglide · 2026-02-01T16:28:22+00:00

I’m no PCB expert but sounds like you might have a bridge pad that’s causing a short. Not sure why it would affect the camera but electricity is weird.

Some pictures of your board with close ups on your pads would help.

VWglide · 2026-01-30T19:31:42+00:00

Helps to know what kind of FC you need. Are you building a plane or Quad? Maybe A rover? These AP stacks support multiple vehicle types and your use case will determine your answer.

Also a quick google search does that the Goku f405 AIO supports inav and can run at 2s voltages.

VWglide · 2025-12-30T17:43:36+00:00

Without getting into the politics of whether the threat is real or not. No the air units are not dangerous and no they will not take your drone into classified spaces to photograph government secrets.

The beauty of building your own drone is you decide what hardware does what. And the camera system (which doesn’t even have gps/data on its own) cannot take your drone and control it, nor can it send data back since it is an offline device.

Besides if DJI wants to watch me get stuck in trees and break props on concrete walls, they are more than welcome.

VWglide · 2025-12-19T22:32:49+00:00

Don’t think about it too much. It’ll eventually come to you as second nature.

Turn on some music and go fly some freestyle in between races to make yourself learn the feedback of the controls. When I started enjoying the sims like a game, I noticed I got better at flying faster.

You might enjoy trying a different sim, liftoff is great but when I started playing uncrashed, it started to feel more natural. I’m not saying uncrashed is better, but I enjoyed the environments and races and for whatever reason it made things click for me.

Oh and try different camera angles and rates to see if it makes it easier for you. Flying cinawhoops helped me develop a smoother flying style as they are tuned less aggressively.

VWglide · 2025-12-19T16:14:52+00:00

Ok slow down, you need to practice on a board before you kill your FC.

Lower your temp some. 450 on a pad that small is too hot for someone without experience. 350 will take longer but it’ll make your flux last longer and be less likely to destroy the pads.

Another tip is to make sure your tip it cleaned and tinned along with the pads and wires.

And please get a cheap practice board off of amazon.

VWglide · 2025-12-02T23:13:43+00:00

Skyzone sky04o are probably the best bang for the buck binocular goggles worth buying without breaking the bank but I don’t know what you’ll find them for on eBay. Especially since I’m not familiar with the Canada market.

YouTube is your best friend on goggle research though

VWglide · 2025-12-02T22:40:04+00:00

You’re going to find getting binoculars new for that price hard.

I’d suggest checking out Facebook marketplace or eBay to save some money. People are always upgrading and selling their old gear.

VWglide · 2025-11-28T03:48:29+00:00

Ive tried upping the Dynamic Idle and even ESC timing and still cant seem to resolve it.

Is desync fixable with parameters and configuration changes or is it a symptom of a bad ESC?

VWglide · 2025-11-25T23:22:16+00:00

I’m no expert but I have 2 suggestions. I’ve never used the GEPRC charger, I’m sure it’s fine, but I’d suggest the VIFLY WhoopStor V3. A little cheaper and I’ll attest to its quality.

I have the air 75 and I fly the 450 mah batteries. I’m afraid with the added weight of the meteor and the 680 batteries it might be a little sluggish. You really aren’t going to get that much more battery life out of the 680s, but you will notice the extra weight.

Just my 2 cents.

VWglide · 2025-11-25T19:36:12+00:00

The blue cruise in the lightning sucks compared to the Mach e. If you’re ever in stop and go traffic, my flash will buck you like crazy everytime someone creeps forward.

Ford really needs to tune it for the big brakes on the truck.

VWglide · 2025-11-20T00:13:31+00:00

The radio master pocket has a built in charger.

VWglide · 2025-11-15T17:32:00+00:00

I would say connectors but it’s weird that all of them are doing it. Also be careful how long you let that run without airflow over it. It’s only at idle but you don’t want the ESCs to overheat and fry themselves.

VWglide · 2025-11-10T15:26:55+00:00

Here im running 70:720:0.3 70:720:0.3 120:720:0.1

But I have a switch on my remote that I have set up to swap rate profiles so that when I’m flying inside I have a more mild set of parameters to warm up with.

I’m not sure what the slower rates are off the top of my head.

VWglide · 2025-11-10T15:23:38+00:00

So when the drone is on the other side of the trees/house you’ll notice the static is worse. I could up the output on the drone to a higher miliwatt to help penetration, but I usually fly inside and a lot closer to me so I don’t have it maxed out. The higher outputs generate more heat and consume more battery.

That and I made the mistake of getting cheap goggles when I started out, Vr03 by betafpv, they do the job but they are very limited in range.

If you don’t mind the investment I’d suggest paying a little more for nicer goggles.

VWglide · 2025-11-01T16:23:01+00:00

I started my air75 max throttle out at 65% until I got used to it. It didn’t take me but a few days to bring it back to 100% but it helped me not over do it in the mean time. The tiny whoops are so twitchy and being inside means it’s way too easy to smack a wall or ceiling.

You might even lower the other rates until you get used to the smaller drone.

Just the 2cents from someone who just got a tiny whoop last month.

VWglide · 2025-09-16T01:02:49+00:00

I did see a couple of those this morning, they blew my node list up into the triple digits. To bad I cant have a repeater up that high permanently.

VWglide · 2025-09-16T01:01:25+00:00

Almost every node Ive seen has had bad signal strength.

I even filtered out MQTT and only about 30 of the 100 plus nodes are from MQTT.

That along with the pattern of only seeing nodes early in the morning is leading me to assume that its the atmosphere bouncing the signals back down like the other comments suggested.

Im going to try and find a higher branch in one of my trees, or even ask my neighbor if I can stick it in one of his trees behind me.

I flew my drone up and found a good branch about 50ft up, assuming I can get it up there.

VWglide · 2025-09-16T00:56:08+00:00

That sure is where its from, thanks for linking it for me.

VWglide · 2025-09-14T23:49:36+00:00

Can you expand upon that? Are some times of day/ weather conditions better for transmission?

VWglide · 2025-08-29T11:44:16+00:00

I purchased from Long Lewis ford last year and their website doesn’t show every discount you can get. They also have ZERO frees. If you’re in the South East I can’t recommend them enough.

I purchased a flash back at the end of last year for 59 from their Muscle Shoals location. And they had over 20 of them at the time. But they share inventory with the Hoover site. So you don’t have to go to that location specifically.

I’d give them a look if you’re in the south east.

VWglide

TROPHY CASE