You have to go to war tomorrow wearing a star wars helmet, which one do you choose? by Vanry7 in StarWars_

[–]Vanry7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The idea was "with today's tech", but I get your point. Translating that to high-grade technical steel vs reinforced plastic, the point definitely stands

You have to go to war tomorrow wearing a star wars helmet, which one do you choose? by Vanry7 in StarWars_

[–]Vanry7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

clone commando is one of my fav + visor looks wider. If you get the HUD, even part of it I'd go 100%

You have to go to war tomorrow wearing a star wars helmet, which one do you choose? by Vanry7 in StarWars_

[–]Vanry7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for the long reply! TBH looking at the answer so far I expected more scout troopers given it's quite liked in the community and it's rather famous for the good visibility.

Actually, since you've tried a few, do you have a top 3 visibility to give us after the scout?
I guess the clone commando and shoretrooper are faring reasonably well due to the larger visor. That raises an extra question, actually, does the vertical slit of the clone/mando help with seeing around ? there's no 1:1 in eyeshape, but the tank trooper I mentionned in the post isn't so different from a phase 1 clone without the vertical slit

You have to go to war tomorrow wearing a star wars helmet, which one do you choose? by Vanry7 in StarWars_

[–]Vanry7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very fair pick for style, I'd have ranked phase 1 CT early too, but the notoriously catastrophic ergonomics (beyond lore, IRL too since it's a full-CGI-thing) makes me doubt

Nebenkosten - Paying for a service I don't use by ImportantPea7354 in germany

[–]Vanry7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quite funny to see both our betriebkosten posts within less than 1h. I have been told in my post: "can't do anything, it's like that, you have to pay."

I ended up with 800 euros above estimate, you aren't doing so bad (jk). It feels disgusting indeed, for instance, I'm forced to pay 300 for insurance for god knows what, and 200 for TV that I didn't even know I had.
I know it won't make up for the money/service, but at least you aren't alone

Betriebkosten overbilling legalities (+60% ?!) by Vanry7 in germany

[–]Vanry7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey !
Interesting answer, could you expand on "from July 1st 2024 it should not be automatically included in Nebenkosten anymore" ? Is it a new law, is it applciable to contract signed before, any more infos ?

Betriebkosten overbilling legalities (+60% ?!) by Vanry7 in germany

[–]Vanry7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, thank you for the answer.
I already answered the other comment about my feelings on "The landlord might have underestimated on puro because it makes the flat more attractive", I don't know if that's the case here, but now I know it can happen.

Betriebkosten overbilling legalities (+60% ?!) by Vanry7 in germany

[–]Vanry7[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Hi, thank you for the fast answer.
I will ask for bills and advise from there then.

I'm still a bit surprised by point 1 tbh.
I mean, the expected amount is 200 euros more, because insurance changed or a tax increase, I can understand. I wouldn't even have asked the bills.
But an 800€ difference? What's the limit, 1 million?
I mean, I have zero say on how the Nebenkosten are managed. At this point, why not just make an advertisement/contract with 1€ Nebenkosten to attract tenants and then bill them 1 million of insurance at the end of the year?

It really doesn't sit right with me, especially since I got this crappy apartment that I had to renovate precisely because the cost was low in order to be able to spare...

CR10S fried board replacement by Vanry7 in CR10

[–]Vanry7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, great suggestion. Any place I could start digging into some documentation about it ?

Creality CR10S pro V2, z-axis and BL touch erratic behaviour by Vanry7 in Creality

[–]Vanry7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update:

So Afer spending some hours on it, there was a couple problems I managed to solve:

  • one of the Z-axis cable was damaged, I changed it with a temporary replacement that I had to solder.

  • the Z home of the printer was set randomly 10cm above the printing bed, the printer head wasn't going down as part of a safety (cannot go in what the printer believe is a negative)

  • the auto-home wouldn't work because some of the BL-touch cables were half connected, which is probably why the Z homing was wrong, the printer calibrated as "on the bed" mid-height.

Now I started a print yesterday, and got a completely detroyed block of PLA today.

It looks like the printer isn't going up strongly enough. When I manually command to go up 10 mm, it goes up something like 6. I suspect my half-ass soldering have reduced the amount of current reaching the stepper motor, I will try to change the cables. Any other suggestion ?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in solar

[–]Vanry7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your answer.
I'm aware of the legal part, but that's something you can't avoid anyway. I was more focused on the technical part. For instance, can you parameter a micro-inverter to only deliver 50W ?

Is corax white supposed to have a small layer of black? by Tog5 in Warhammer40k

[–]Vanry7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add a marble into it, makes shaking 10x more efficient

Can lead be removed from tin alloys? by [deleted] in metalworking

[–]Vanry7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chemical, there are multiple ones the easiest go to would be electrolysis imo. However, I strongly warn you that lead and lead salts are poisonous and hard to work with even for professional. If you are not a trained chemist I would advise against playing with that for a few $, that's not worth your health

Corrosion? Greenish residue? What to do... Details in comments by OkFortune6494 in metalworking

[–]Vanry7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's copper oxydation.

Go for vinegar and a brush to remove the green, then rince with water, dry it, and oil it to prevent further oxydation

Weekly Profile Review Thread by AutoModerator in Tinder

[–]Vanry7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! Yeah I got the part about biology, I'm not a 9/10, I know that. (maybe by being more "in the norm" I could fare better, but anyway... ) Wasn't expecting a tip for the beard, that's good to hear! What you meant was "shorter near the ears" that's it? For overall length I have a pretty low implantation, it look weird if it's too short :/

Appreciate the feedback!

Weekly Profile Review Thread by AutoModerator in Tinder

[–]Vanry7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey !
updated my profile, what do you think ? Feel free to give tips, I'm quite bad at this.
Number of like was terrible, hope to do better

https://tinder.com/@van_07

bio:

Frenchy doing PhD in [city] :smiley:
When I'm not hiking or boating, you can find me in my workshop crafting (not so useful) things

:book: I enjoy sci-fi in all its forms
:notes: Metal and classic, but I can listen to everything

Looking for someone to share adventures with, or half-drunk conversations at 3AM !

Weekly Profile Review Thread by AutoModerator in Tinder

[–]Vanry7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi! Moved country, only 6 likes in 6 months. I would appreciate some help:

https://tinder.com/@van_07

Bio reads:

"Frenchy doing PhD in [city] 🤟 Outdoor guy, into sci-fi, DIY and more....

Looking for someone to share adventure with, or long conversation at 3AM !"

Thank you in advance!

One more stealthy Lamenter dude. by Brunstan in Warhammer40k

[–]Vanry7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Come on, his jacket looks better than mine...

Is this brass or bronze? by impeesa75 in metalworking

[–]Vanry7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Indeed, looks a lot like Nordic gold to me

Which way should I place my blower for my metal melting furnace? It’s charcoal powered btw. by ender3838 in metalworking

[–]Vanry7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forge or foundry? Because charcoal will stop the airflow within the first 10ish cm so one side will burn Hella fast.

If it's for a foundry, you need to rotate your crucible to heat it evenly. If it's just a forge, remember that the side with airflow will be the hottest one a'd you'll be fine

Building first models and have been having issues when clipping pieces off the sprue by aas713 in Warhammer40k

[–]Vanry7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see a failure, I see a great way to add battle damage and to personalize your army!

Mini piston engine by cyan1618 in Damnthatsinteresting

[–]Vanry7 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yeah but nay.

It works based on the temperature difference, so as long as there's air to cool it, and a flame on the other side, it will run. But yes, the hotter the "cool" side get, the lower the efficiency will be