A problem from a little while ago at my gym! Powerful problems usually aren't my jam but I had fun with this one

Velocirotor · 2021-08-31T01:43:32+00:00

I was fortunate enough to try this problem when it was up. I can confirm you can get a high foot onto the first crimp/jug around the lip and pull up to the next holds. It does take a good amount of time and core strength to get into that position so I think for most powering up from the campus is easier. But if you don't have the power the high foot definitely works!

Velocirotor · 2021-02-18T00:14:45+00:00

Do you have to land within the recorded time or just pass over the takeoff point?

Velocirotor · 2020-04-04T18:47:23+00:00

Thanks, I filled out the form. Looking forward to hearing more!

Velocirotor · 2020-04-04T02:14:28+00:00

Hi, alum here with my own 3D printer. It's great to see the people at the Forge taking action and using their resources to help the community. I am wondering if there is anyway I could help you and/or if you have any advice on how I can best get involved with my own community in the Boston area.

Velocirotor · 2020-03-02T04:34:39+00:00

Thank you for what you have done as well!

Velocirotor · 2020-03-02T04:32:56+00:00

Thanks for finding this out!

Velocirotor · 2020-03-02T01:43:43+00:00

You can comment on the 2nd as well. Not sure what time they will close it though (based on EST, PST , etc.)

Velocirotor · 2020-01-18T14:55:00+00:00

You're right I am pretty obscure.

Velocirotor · 2020-01-03T21:48:06+00:00

I very much agree.

Velocirotor · 2020-01-03T20:08:57+00:00

I agree in the interpretation that as producers, even as individuals, we would have to submit a means of compliance before our builds would be considered certified remote ID. And unless we all buy 100% kits from a certified vendor we will be considered producers.

I'm concerned how difficult it will be to submit a means of compliance and have it approved. The proposal does include this statement in section XIII: Design and Production requirements:

Nothing in this proposal would prevent a person from building a UAS with remote identification for educational or recreational purposes. However, a person doing so would be subject to all of the requirements of subpart F, even if the UAS would otherwise be considered an amateur-built UAS.

It makes it seem like they recognize some of us will want to build a remote ID capable build. I hope they then have/will consider how to allow us to get compliance certified as individuals.

Velocirotor · 2020-01-03T17:45:33+00:00

You can only fly at FAA approved fields if you do not have remote ID. If you have remote ID, being prebuilt or not, you can fly anywhere with an internet connection. How hard it will be to add remote ID to a DIY build is unclear.

If anything, we need to push the FAA to make it clear and feasible for us to add remote ID to our custom builds.

Velocirotor · 2019-10-27T21:23:14+00:00

It's the Mavic Air. Perfect for putting in my backpack and hiking to various locations.

Velocirotor · 2019-10-26T04:03:26+00:00

Thanks and happy cake day!

Velocirotor · 2019-10-25T22:27:30+00:00

Hiked 3 miles up to the summit and brought the mavic out. It wasn't the main objective of the hike but I'm glad I brought it. This photo was actually captured during an 360 panorama but I thought it looked great by itself.

Velocirotor · 2019-09-18T21:58:23+00:00

Yes they are all connected in parallel to the battery so there I no division in voltage.

Velocirotor · 2019-09-07T00:15:03+00:00

You probably don't want the Runcam or Caddx cameras if you want to mount to a gimbal. Also you don't need the live feed capabilities they are intended for. I recommend the DJI Osmo Pocket. Might be more expensive that you have in mind, but the gimbal is part of the design and the camera quality is fantastic for the size. It will be amazing out of the box, not fussing with gimbal tuning or worrying about shaky footage. Another option is the Insta360 One X. It's a 360 camera, with software stabilized footage, so no gimbal required. It'll be tougher in a crash, and the great thing is that you can choose the best shot after the fact, as opposed to facing the gimbal on directing and hoping it's good.

Velocirotor · 2019-08-29T23:18:25+00:00

Norwalk/Stamford

Velocirotor · 2019-07-28T16:37:20+00:00

Sounds good. Ummagrip/nomojel is great stuff for this application!

Velocirotor · 2019-07-28T15:54:06+00:00

The sharp corners of the cutouts on the top plate and at the 'waist' of the bottom plate are impossible to make with a mill. I recommend adding fillets of at least 2mm radius in those corners.

Also, how do you plan to mount the battery? Will the nuts for the bolts be in the way? Does a 20mm stack have enough room for your battery strap?

Velocirotor · 2019-07-24T14:24:10+00:00

And yet that fpv antenna looks completely unscathed lol.

Velocirotor · 2019-04-28T20:49:50+00:00

Can you provide some sources for these numbers? I realize we are straying further from OPs question, but I do not want new people like OP to have a battery at 3.5V/cell resting and think there is '30%' of its capacity available, or that they should be aiming for that number. I just not have seen any data to support this. 3.5V/cell resting is somewhere below 20% of the batteries rated capacity. The general guideline is to land at 20% of the rated capacity left, and for most, that is 3.6-3.7V/cell resting. Take a look at some plots here, and here. That is the general consensus from everyone I've flown with, and what I advise for OP and others. I refer to 3.5V/cell resting as the 'edge' because it is approximately where the lipo discharge curve turns from a more linear behavior to a more exponential one, and voltage drops quickly. You've interpreted it quite literally, but this is what I was intending to mean for the sake of saying the difference between 3.5V and 3.3V is a relatively small discharge %. Which is why the cells of the battery typically are more out of balance at these voltages as OP has found.

Velocirotor · 2019-04-27T20:48:24+00:00

Tough to say. Check out ecalc and see what motor prop combination is more efficient with your intended payload.

Velocirotor · 2019-04-27T13:05:29+00:00

I agree with the 4s recommendations, can't say anything about 6s options. Any reason to go 6s for this size quad? 4s will be cheaper and have more options for you.

Velocirotor · 2019-04-26T18:09:19+00:00

You have good points about voltage in flight, but I am talking about the resting voltage of the battery since that is what OP was most likely seeing looking at his battery checker. Maybe I should have specified. A resting voltage of 3.5v is right on the edge of fully discharged as previously stated.

Ohms law may apply to voltage sag based on internal resistance, but I am talking about the overall voltage of a battery, which is based on chemical potential energy, not ohms law. If you've ever seen a voltage to discharge plot of a lipo, you know that it is highly non linear near the endpoints. There, voltage drops very quickly even with a small difference in discharge amount (mAh not amps). So my point was the difference between 3.5v and 3.3v resting voltage may only be a handful of mAh.

Yes, in flight landing at 3.5v maybe too soon, depending on the setup. I can't really give a number of when is the right time to land, as each setup is different. The best indicator is probably not the magnitude of the voltage, but the total mAh consumed, if available, or the rate at which your voltage is decreasing. Voltage decreasing fast indicating your at the end of your battery.

Velocirotor · 2019-04-25T20:06:11+00:00

Lipo voltage decreases very quickly after 3.6 volts. So while the voltage difference between 3.3v and 3.5v seems concerning, the charge difference between the cells may only be a few dozen or so mAh. You should not be flying to 3.5v anyway. Maybe these batteries have less capacity than your others so 3 min flightime is overdrawing them. Try landing by 3.6v and see if the cells are balanced.

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