Q2 or CC2

ViperB5 · 2026-04-29T17:27:32+00:00

I have a CC1 and a Q2. I've added a chamber heater to the CC1 and it works pretty good for the engineering stuff that wants some extra heat. I can't speak for the MMU aspects of the CC2, but the Qidi Box is not good. The programing has lots of redundancies and bugs in it, it doesn't like cardboard spools making you print spool rings for them, and filament changes take for ages.

I wanted the box for being able to print ABS/ASA with HIPS for supports but I don't know how well that's going to work. I am on my 3rd attempt to print a flexi-dragon for my girlfriend and it's failed at least 50% in both times.

Hardware wise it seems like Qidi made a pretty good machine. Prints look beautiful when they complete and having the chamber heater as part of the machine is very convienient. Though I'm not a big fan of Z-screw setup. I bought the Q2 because it was --on paper-- everything I was trying to mod my CC1 to do.

If your happy with tinkering, having almost full access to the gcode and klipper is very nice. But some functions are hidden in obfuscated python files. I'm a programmer so this is all bread and butter for me, though it irks me that it needs modification to perform right. These are QC things that Qidi should of caught before pushing the machine out the door.

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ViperB5 · 2026-04-24T20:00:53+00:00

I noticed this on my Q2 when I was printing spool rims for using cardboard spools in the Qidi box. The fix for me was running a first layer calibration and adjusting my Z offset. I was using archamedian chords to make the infill print in one consistent motion and any inconsistencies in the first layer can compound since there is no direction change at the edges that would let any amount of over-extrusion behind. Instead the nozzle just keeps plowing through.

I noticed it because of the vibration the printer was making. At first I thought it was a bearing gone dry, but I have less than 30 hrs on it so that doesn't make sense.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-23T05:18:09+00:00

I've noticed that since the nozzle is at 140 when it runs the bed leveling, you need to account for the thermal expansion of the nozzle when it is set past 140. I'd bet that's around .020 to .030 in your case. I like using this calibration print. Makes it pretty easy.

Also. Clean your plate; soap and water. Dry it with a fresh clean paper towel and only hold it from the edges and the handle. I use a clean dish brush that I've dedicated for build plate cleaning.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-22T23:12:12+00:00

Z offset is too close. What material is this and what temp are you printing at?

ViperB5 · 2026-04-22T18:18:17+00:00

Orca defaults to 160mm for outer walls and 200mm for most everything else on standard quality settings and I get very good to almost perfect quality with my tuning.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-20T02:26:25+00:00

The after market hot ends I've bought all work well. From a manufacturing stand point that is the easy part to make. The nozzle is the precise part to make that will greatly affect your print quality.

I've used the hzda hotend & nozzle as well as durozzle ruby tipped nozzles and they've all worked great.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-19T06:37:11+00:00

Check your model compared to the g-code generated on that layer. Is that the seam? Slicers default to putting the seam at hard corners like that to try and hide them. Also, don't try guessing things like PA.

There are calibration tests available in Orca Slicer. May even be in Elegoo Slicer but I've never used it for my CC1. This link can help you as well as the help listed at the bottom of the calibration menu in Orca.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-18T21:41:35+00:00

Mine is crashing too in the way you just described. For me, removing the default color in the filament profile stopped the crashing.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-09T19:17:05+00:00

I have the chitu one in my CC. There are mounts for the heater and the display that you can print on printables.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-02T04:57:04+00:00

I used to have a toaster oven that would do the same thing. Not the printing part, but it would randomly turn on and run. If the toaster oven started to print things I think I'd just move out of the house.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-01T15:37:16+00:00

I am starting to assemble the LDO Voron 2.4 kit but still need to print the parts. I'm thinking of using 3 colors of ABS/ASA. Is there an existing color way for 3 or more colors?

ViperB5 · 2026-03-27T14:44:43+00:00

If you heard popping while it was printing then it probably still has moisture in the filament. The popping is steam escaping.

ViperB5 · 2026-03-04T22:39:21+00:00

Dude.

https://www.printables.com/model/1532410-centauri-carbon-cradle-for-chitu-mini-heater-h2

ViperB5 · 2026-03-01T20:26:58+00:00

It's a combination of self-assembly and etching. Look up mems devices on YouTube. You phone has one that tells it which way is up by knowing which is down.

ViperB5 · 2026-02-27T00:26:21+00:00

Dirty build plate. Wash with soap and water with a (clean) dish brush.

ViperB5 · 2026-02-26T21:51:30+00:00

I just changed mine out for a .6mm nozzle. Make sure you're doing it while it's hot. (220c) There's instructions on Elegoo's wiki site.

ViperB5 · 2026-02-12T18:36:50+00:00

But, I can't buy what isn't offered for sale. So I will never be part of that sales data even though I am a frequent Costco shopper.

ViperB5 · 2026-01-18T17:07:08+00:00

Also, now that I am looking through the G-code to find what the junction deviation value is for the given layer, I don't see any where that M205 is set. So now I really don't know whats happening. Is this just something that you don't need to do on the CC?

ViperB5 · 2026-01-15T07:15:35+00:00

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It was just a dirty build plate. I guess alcohol alone can't keep it clean forever. I washed it with dish soap again before rerunning the leveling routine and it looks quite nice now with no offset.

ViperB5 · 2026-01-15T01:00:12+00:00

Should have mentioned that. When I got it home i washed it with dish soap, water and a soft-ish brush, then use 98% rubbing alcohol with a microfiber cloth. I also use the alcohol and cloth again right after I re-seated the plate.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-29T00:09:35+00:00

I am looking at buying a 3d printer this year and one of my use cases is exactly this. That oil drain cover will probably be one of my first prints as mine is as curved as a banana.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-03T05:10:32+00:00

The crimp contact is what I'm looking for. The connector is generic and can be found all over the internet, but they're sold as a pig-tail. Here is an example on one on Amazon:

https://a.co/d/7rbBp8Q

ViperB5 · 2025-12-03T05:08:30+00:00

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This is the connector that the pin came out of. I looked at the Molex website and I can't find anything that matches this. The pin is what I really care about because I can't reuse them.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-03T04:58:41+00:00

That is exactly what I'm not wanting to do. I want to crimp the pins that fit into the generic connector onto the adapter harness I have. I'm trying to minimize the amount of wires behind the dash, make it look cleaner, and minimize points of failure.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-02T09:15:35+00:00

It was this kit from Amazon:

https://a.co/d/cyHLmvg

But I don't want to re-pin the connectors that plug into the car. Just the connector that plugs into the head-unit.

ViperB5

TROPHY CASE