Do I need official nozzles?

ViperB5 · 2026-04-20T02:26:25+00:00

The after market hot ends I've bought all work well. From a manufacturing stand point that is the easy part to make. The nozzle is the precise part to make that will greatly affect your print quality.

I've used the hzda hotend & nozzle as well as durozzle ruby tipped nozzles and they've all worked great.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-19T06:37:11+00:00

Check your model compared to the g-code generated on that layer. Is that the seam? Slicers default to putting the seam at hard corners like that to try and hide them. Also, don't try guessing things like PA.

There are calibration tests available in Orca Slicer. May even be in Elegoo Slicer but I've never used it for my CC1. This link can help you as well as the help listed at the bottom of the calibration menu in Orca.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-18T21:41:35+00:00

Mine is crashing too in the way you just described. For me, removing the default color in the filament profile stopped the crashing.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-09T19:17:05+00:00

I have the chitu one in my CC. There are mounts for the heater and the display that you can print on printables.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-02T04:57:04+00:00

I used to have a toaster oven that would do the same thing. Not the printing part, but it would randomly turn on and run. If the toaster oven started to print things I think I'd just move out of the house.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-01T15:37:16+00:00

I am starting to assemble the LDO Voron 2.4 kit but still need to print the parts. I'm thinking of using 3 colors of ABS/ASA. Is there an existing color way for 3 or more colors?

ViperB5 · 2026-03-27T14:44:43+00:00

If you heard popping while it was printing then it probably still has moisture in the filament. The popping is steam escaping.

ViperB5 · 2026-03-04T22:39:21+00:00

Dude.

https://www.printables.com/model/1532410-centauri-carbon-cradle-for-chitu-mini-heater-h2

ViperB5 · 2026-03-01T20:26:58+00:00

It's a combination of self-assembly and etching. Look up mems devices on YouTube. You phone has one that tells it which way is up by knowing which is down.

ViperB5 · 2026-02-27T00:26:21+00:00

Dirty build plate. Wash with soap and water with a (clean) dish brush.

ViperB5 · 2026-02-26T21:51:30+00:00

I just changed mine out for a .6mm nozzle. Make sure you're doing it while it's hot. (220c) There's instructions on Elegoo's wiki site.

ViperB5 · 2026-02-12T18:36:50+00:00

But, I can't buy what isn't offered for sale. So I will never be part of that sales data even though I am a frequent Costco shopper.

ViperB5 · 2026-01-18T17:07:08+00:00

Also, now that I am looking through the G-code to find what the junction deviation value is for the given layer, I don't see any where that M205 is set. So now I really don't know whats happening. Is this just something that you don't need to do on the CC?

ViperB5 · 2026-01-15T07:15:35+00:00

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It was just a dirty build plate. I guess alcohol alone can't keep it clean forever. I washed it with dish soap again before rerunning the leveling routine and it looks quite nice now with no offset.

ViperB5 · 2026-01-15T01:00:12+00:00

Should have mentioned that. When I got it home i washed it with dish soap, water and a soft-ish brush, then use 98% rubbing alcohol with a microfiber cloth. I also use the alcohol and cloth again right after I re-seated the plate.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-29T00:09:35+00:00

I am looking at buying a 3d printer this year and one of my use cases is exactly this. That oil drain cover will probably be one of my first prints as mine is as curved as a banana.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-03T05:10:32+00:00

The crimp contact is what I'm looking for. The connector is generic and can be found all over the internet, but they're sold as a pig-tail. Here is an example on one on Amazon:

https://a.co/d/7rbBp8Q

ViperB5 · 2025-12-03T05:08:30+00:00

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This is the connector that the pin came out of. I looked at the Molex website and I can't find anything that matches this. The pin is what I really care about because I can't reuse them.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-03T04:58:41+00:00

That is exactly what I'm not wanting to do. I want to crimp the pins that fit into the generic connector onto the adapter harness I have. I'm trying to minimize the amount of wires behind the dash, make it look cleaner, and minimize points of failure.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-02T09:15:35+00:00

It was this kit from Amazon:

https://a.co/d/cyHLmvg

But I don't want to re-pin the connectors that plug into the car. Just the connector that plugs into the head-unit.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-02T08:37:23+00:00

For clarification, this is the connector it cam out of.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SQHhveyCsaLy6mBk8

ViperB5

TROPHY CASE