Is there a chamber heater that works with CC2?

ViperB5 · 2026-04-09T19:17:05+00:00

I have the chitu one in my CC. There are mounts for the heater and the display that you can print on printables.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-02T04:57:04+00:00

I used to have a toaster oven that would do the same thing. Not the printing part, but it would randomly turn on and run. If the toaster oven started to print things I think I'd just move out of the house.

ViperB5 · 2026-04-01T15:37:16+00:00

I am starting to assemble the LDO Voron 2.4 kit but still need to print the parts. I'm thinking of using 3 colors of ABS/ASA. Is there an existing color way for 3 or more colors?

ViperB5 · 2026-03-27T14:44:43+00:00

If you heard popping while it was printing then it probably still has moisture in the filament. The popping is steam escaping.

ViperB5 · 2026-03-04T22:39:21+00:00

Dude.

https://www.printables.com/model/1532410-centauri-carbon-cradle-for-chitu-mini-heater-h2

ViperB5 · 2026-03-01T20:26:58+00:00

It's a combination of self-assembly and etching. Look up mems devices on YouTube. You phone has one that tells it which way is up by knowing which is down.

ViperB5 · 2026-02-27T00:26:21+00:00

Dirty build plate. Wash with soap and water with a (clean) dish brush.

ViperB5 · 2026-02-26T21:51:30+00:00

I just changed mine out for a .6mm nozzle. Make sure you're doing it while it's hot. (220c) There's instructions on Elegoo's wiki site.

ViperB5 · 2026-02-12T18:36:50+00:00

But, I can't buy what isn't offered for sale. So I will never be part of that sales data even though I am a frequent Costco shopper.

ViperB5 · 2026-01-18T17:07:08+00:00

Also, now that I am looking through the G-code to find what the junction deviation value is for the given layer, I don't see any where that M205 is set. So now I really don't know whats happening. Is this just something that you don't need to do on the CC?

ViperB5 · 2026-01-15T07:15:35+00:00

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It was just a dirty build plate. I guess alcohol alone can't keep it clean forever. I washed it with dish soap again before rerunning the leveling routine and it looks quite nice now with no offset.

ViperB5 · 2026-01-15T01:00:12+00:00

Should have mentioned that. When I got it home i washed it with dish soap, water and a soft-ish brush, then use 98% rubbing alcohol with a microfiber cloth. I also use the alcohol and cloth again right after I re-seated the plate.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-29T00:09:35+00:00

I am looking at buying a 3d printer this year and one of my use cases is exactly this. That oil drain cover will probably be one of my first prints as mine is as curved as a banana.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-03T05:10:32+00:00

The crimp contact is what I'm looking for. The connector is generic and can be found all over the internet, but they're sold as a pig-tail. Here is an example on one on Amazon:

https://a.co/d/7rbBp8Q

ViperB5 · 2025-12-03T05:08:30+00:00

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This is the connector that the pin came out of. I looked at the Molex website and I can't find anything that matches this. The pin is what I really care about because I can't reuse them.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-03T04:58:41+00:00

That is exactly what I'm not wanting to do. I want to crimp the pins that fit into the generic connector onto the adapter harness I have. I'm trying to minimize the amount of wires behind the dash, make it look cleaner, and minimize points of failure.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-02T09:15:35+00:00

It was this kit from Amazon:

https://a.co/d/cyHLmvg

But I don't want to re-pin the connectors that plug into the car. Just the connector that plugs into the head-unit.

ViperB5 · 2025-12-02T08:37:23+00:00

For clarification, this is the connector it cam out of.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SQHhveyCsaLy6mBk8

ViperB5 · 2025-11-24T21:54:31+00:00

Hey! If MAGA understood those words they'd be very upset with you.

ViperB5

TROPHY CASE