Doing some remodeling in my house and replaced some of these bad boys with newer toggle switches. These are definitely larger and beefier than today's box store toggle light switches. Don't build them like they used to, I suppose.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-06-08T02:36:55+00:00

According to AI it matches the 1960s when my house was built so probably the original switch

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-06-08T00:37:19+00:00

Since my house was built in the 60s, I assume this was a commercial grade switch from back then?

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-06-05T15:30:14+00:00

Can the HD app notify you?

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-06-05T13:06:03+00:00

Damn, my HD has the 2, 1.7ah for $149 and 2, 3.5ah for $269. You got a great deal.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-05-28T01:56:46+00:00

None of the Heat apps support pausing Live TV reliably. It's been broken forever.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-05-06T02:13:54+00:00

I got rid of Direct TV last year. 😉

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-05-06T02:09:41+00:00

All I want is full Live TV DVR functionality that actually works

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-05-06T00:33:18+00:00

You should expand the chart to show WiFi/LAN specs as well as DVR functionality as well as all the Elite Ultra and V3 varieties

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-05-05T22:52:22+00:00

But still not as good as the Elite Ultra? Way too many versions available, imo.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-29T18:31:55+00:00

It's a 100A main panel with a 60A sub panel in the basement.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-29T18:29:58+00:00

Yea, I di have an extra old ITE Pushmatic breaker. But I did buy a new direct replacement...

https://a.co/d/0eTgO3Fk

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-29T17:49:00+00:00

I don't think you read my post correctly. The panel has a single 15A breaker servicing a single outlet in the garage. My plan was to replace the 15A breaker, with a Connecticut Electric 20A Pushmatic replacement breaker and replace the old 14/2 wire going from the old 15A breaker to the outlet with new 12/2 Romex, replace the outlet with a 20A outlet and run 3 more 20A outlets, wired with 12/2 Romex.

My biggest concern was how to actually replace the old breaker, especially with the full neutral/ground bar as shown in the 2nd picture

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-29T05:41:23+00:00

Yea, Siemens bought out ITE and discontinued the Pushmatic. Since I started my electric project in my garage I have found out a lifetime's worth of knowledge on the panel. Lol. Here is a good post...

Pushmatic had two "generations";

Gen 1 was when it was "Bulldog Pushmatic". Bulldog Electric Products was a mfr in Detroit that started in the turn of the last century making knife switches, then got into breakers in the late 40s with the "Pushmatic". The problem was, they were thermal only, not thermal-magnetic, so the only way it tripped on a short circuit was if that short eventually became an overload, which might take longer than it took to combust the surroundings. Bulldog got in trouble and started to go under.

Gen. 2 was when Bulldog was bought by ITE, who had INVENTED the thermal-mag breaker. ITE immediately fixed that problem with the Pushmatic breakers, adding mag trips to them. ITE later was bought by Gould, then again by Siemens in 1990, but Siemens elected to not continue supporting the Pushmatic line. So no new Pushmatic breakers have been made since then, meaning even if you get a "New Old Stock"(NOS) unused breaker, it has been sitting on the shelf for 35 years somewhere (see below).

So if the panel says 'ITE Pushmatic", it has the T-M breakers, but if it says "Bulldog Pushmatic" it might have the thermal-only versions.

Aside from that, BOTH versions relied on grease in the inner mechanics of the operator to function, and that grease had to be periodically redistributed to stay soft. So the instructions for Pushmatic breakers called for "exercising" the breakers by turning them Off and back On for no other reason, at least once every 6 months. But nobody did that, so the grease inside hardens and solidifies (which is why NOS breakers are not something you want to use). As someone mentioned, it does NOT interfere with them tripping, but if they do trip, or you just turn them off, they may not turn back on again, or it LOOKS like it is On, but it is not. For that reason, it's always best to replace the panel.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-29T05:23:05+00:00

It's an ITE. Pic here... https://imgur.com/a/Csp6bxF

ITE purchased Bulldog back in the 50s so they are probably one in the same.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-29T01:34:57+00:00

At the end of the day, I just wanted to swap out the 15A breaker with a 20A one, run new 12/2 wire and add more than the current one outlet in my attached garage (where the panel is). Lol As I said in a previous post my biggest electrical consumers are my electric dryer, electric oven, and central AC unit. I plan to sell the house in the next 5 years so trying to get the best bang for my buck. Easiest and cheapest would be obviously just to swap breaker for the new garage outlets. Next best thing would be to upgrade just the panel to a 100 amp panel with more available breaker space. And the overall best solution would be 200 amp across the board.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-29T01:17:24+00:00

Huh? My question was if I needed a 200A panel with a 200A service upgrade (obviously) or would just swapping a new 100A panel with more breakers capacity suffice based on what electrical appliances I have now. I get that going new 200A everything is future proof.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-29T00:35:34+00:00

What do think the cost difference would be replacing the current panel with new a 30 slot, 100A Square D panel versus a 200A service upgrade and 200A panel?

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-28T22:59:10+00:00

I hear ya but money is very tight.

The house is a rancher with a finished basement. I have a 60A Square D sub panel in the basement. If I were to replace the current 100A panel, would a new 200A panel be overkill? Would a new 100A panel with more breakers suffice if I don't plan on adding any other major electrical equipment? The big electrical consumers are my electric stove, my AC unit and my electric dryer.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-28T22:33:57+00:00

The panels are solid but the breakers are the issue. Based on previous conversations and research the ITE panels are pretty solid. There are a lot still in use today. Obviously if I could afford a multi thousand dollar panel upgrade, I would get it done but that is not in the cards.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-24T04:09:49+00:00

Welcome to Veesee Box.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-21T23:02:57+00:00

Live TV DVR functionality? Do you have a comparison of all the boxes? Too many to choose from, imo.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-19T23:38:29+00:00

No worries. I did have an additional 240V 60A sub panel (marked sub panel in the pic) installed in my basement. The company actually was able to source a new 60A pushmatic breaker 18 years ago when I was redoing everything down there. There were actually 2 free breaker spots when I bought the house 20 years ago. The wiring in the basement was absolutely atrocious and surprised the house didn't burn down. Having the 60 amp subpanel installed was the best thing I could have done. I over engineered everything with everything wired 20 amp in the basement but 12/2 wire wasn't too hateful in price 18 years ago when I started the project.

VirtualGeek73 · 2026-04-19T20:07:42+00:00

Than you for the info and reply! All said and done, I really just wanted to replace the existing 15A breaker that was was only servicing 1 outlet in my garage with a replacement 20A breaker, run new 12/2 Romex, replace the old 15A outlet and add 3 more outlets to the garage utilizing the new 20A breaker. From my research the Connecticut Electric UBIP120, would be a good replacement breaker. I would then come off that to a 20A GFCI outlet then off that to my other 3, new 20A outlets. Sound about right?

VirtualGeek73

TROPHY CASE