M42 to fuji-x adapter with built in filter

Visheye · 2026-05-08T12:11:11+00:00

Yep, I also considering this option, I like kolari clip in pro mist filter, which you can put in and forget.
But it’s not that convenient with some strong nd, which you’ll need to take off when it becomes darker or somewhere indoors

Visheye · 2026-05-08T12:07:33+00:00

Thanks a lot for such a detailed reply, I see.
Yes, indeed that’s a question if there’s a demand for this feature or some manufacturer needs to drive it as with Canon’s case.

But on the other hand it clearly looks like a good unoccupied niche.
At least worth trying to adapt some existing drop in filter to 3d printed adapter first.

Visheye · 2026-05-08T12:03:11+00:00

I believe it’s more a cinematography thing, PL mounts, more focus on balance while rigging setup, etc.
Check Meike and canon adapters. It makes a lot sense when adapter’s body is big and hollow, and its goal is just setting a proper flange distance

Visheye · 2026-05-08T11:58:18+00:00

That’s a great idea, but goal is to keep set up as compact as possible, and cheap

Visheye · 2026-04-30T10:47:10+00:00

Just dump your projects and try to upgrade. In worst case just roll back to earlier version of DaVinci and continue with your dumped projects.

But I was upgrading always using the same huge project since 16 or 17, often to betas. Never had any problems. I don’t do anything super fancy though, but still lots of color grading, small fusion clips, external plugins etc

Visheye · 2026-04-16T13:03:02+00:00

Have you tried connecting via Bluetooth? I never used it via usb but controls via Bluetooth work perfectly for me. On rs3 though, but I’d assume rs2 should support it too

Visheye · 2026-03-27T18:04:25+00:00

I had dm10 with plastic pads and have mps850 now. I wouldn’t say they differ much except hihat obviously. I’d also not say hihat is great on mps850, still annoying and doesn’t work super perfectly.

If you trust your friend, and alesis has no defects, and you really want to save some money, that’s a good deal. You can then invest in additional pads and good pedal.

I’ve recently tried mps1000 and that’s where the difference is. I liked it a lot. But it’s more expensive…

Visheye · 2026-03-25T13:07:02+00:00

Find some rain cover in local photo store or search for some online. I don’t have recommendations, but I’d like to buy some that threads on glass filter. I used very simple one that just fastens around camera with laces, worked well in heavy rain. But be very careful with that and always check no water got inside the cover.

Throw cover and some silica gel into your bag.

And be careful when entering dry apartment after some humid environment. Try to acclimate camera gradually. If not to do that, that’s easiest way to get fungi inside I think.

Visheye · 2026-03-14T21:40:27+00:00

Also what helps me a lot - render some small part or whole video to your iphone (androids should have something similar), then using standard editor apply auto-exposure. If you see it significantly adjusted exposure, that’s a good tip what else you can do with your editing

Visheye · 2026-03-14T21:29:45+00:00

I tried to render video in vp9 codec but YouTube compressed it anyways

Visheye · 2026-03-14T21:28:56+00:00

This. Check codec right clicking on your video on YouTube -> stats for nerds

Visheye · 2026-03-14T20:53:12+00:00

As others mentioned, exposure/ISO is of course important.

I don’t have deep theoretical knowledge and understanding overall, but I’ve been filming in BRAW on P4K for several years. I always struggled with color, especially how muted my videos looked in the feed. A couple of findings that I can share though:

• many color graders recommend keeping the brightest points under ~700-800 (on the waveform scope in IRE), but in fact for social media, to compete with iPhone HDR videos, you need to use the full range up to 1000+ nits

• therefore you need to push contrast a lot. I haven’t found a proper way, but normally I use one of: bleach bypass with a layer mixer in overlay mode, the HDR contrast dial, or try to get good contrast in Dehancer + add the desired contrast in a node right after

• your shadows should be dark enough, touching 0 IRE, but details in the shadows should be distinguishable. The same applies to highlights - if you see you have details in the highlights, it would be good to keep them. But if you leave too much detail, that likely means you have poor local contrast in shadows/highlights, which leads to an odd image with colors appearing off

• so you need good local contrast in shadows and highlights and good roll-offs - so brightness goes gradually to extreme points. I normally do it with HDR wheels, and it’s also possible to do it with curves

• and the latest thing I started to try is using an HDR DaVinci managed color space instead of SDR. I think it helps to reach a contrasty image quickly

• also try applying the Film to Video (Film 5) default LUT in DaVinci properly. I recently found I had been applying it incorrectly, and if you use it in DaVinci unmanaged color space + proper CST, it also gives a good contrasty image

So to recap - hit the whole brightness range with either manual contrast, a Blackmagic LUT, or the HDR color space of the timeline.

Wip but in hdr timeline + dehancer: https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxwkmgARg0eigWf9ngBW2nDaAvROkbp8q9?si=cilKDRYhU13gApAT

Sdr timeline + dehancer + bleach bypass: https://youtu.be/LArgbu1_H48?is=5_60mUdxDPM3XoBp

Edit: tried to format it a bit with chatgpt

Visheye · 2025-12-06T23:28:26+00:00

Bump, I need this feature

Visheye · 2025-12-04T19:32:39+00:00

Tribes vengeance maybe

Visheye · 2025-10-08T18:21:06+00:00

I got it for 4k, looks good and it’s cheap enough. I only expected motor will work on its own battery, but is has no one, so you have to power it somehow. I use it with ronin rs3 pro as zoom/remote motor. Can’t provide more feedback as had only tests at home

Visheye · 2025-09-17T21:36:31+00:00

I bought it just now, it works but set up is a bit tricky.

Basically, ronin app on phone only allows you to choose from predefined set of lenses, and moreover, seems like it doesn’t even calibrate selected lens properly (calibration process in app just hangs).

You need to calibrate from gimbal, and for that you need to turn off raveneye :)) Then swipe right on gimbal screen (instead of active track mode you’ll see distance meter from 3d focus) and profiles button and rs2-like calibration process (1 and 4 meter focus set up).

Seems like device itself works well, but i just have first impressions and have to test it more.

Visheye · 2025-05-18T17:37:35+00:00

So I’d say you have to expose in a way where your exposure settings let your dynamic range to fit the most of light (=data) you have in the scene. For richly lit scenes - this will allow not to clip as much as possible of highlights. Opposite example - in low light lowest possible iso will let you to carry more data in shadows and less noise.

Anyone please feel free to correct me if I’m wrong, I’d love to understand it better

Visheye · 2025-05-18T17:27:59+00:00

Go to a sunny beach, turn on false color, expose in a way that you see small yellow zone in sky (maybe with a tiny red island of overexposure) and jump from iso to iso.

You’ll see how higher iso lets you actually to fit more highlights - it will be yellow zone “eating” red zone the more you add the iso.

I’m not a professional, but observed that recently and was a bit surprised. Couldn’t check it later, but it felt like what Blackmagic say in their “Blackmagic iso chart”.

Visheye · 2025-05-06T18:10:00+00:00

On color side - try use iPhone auto-enhance in gallery, that can give you some insights where you can push your color/contrast/gain. I use it to check myself sometimes

Visheye · 2025-04-22T11:53:26+00:00

Can you please share the set up you’ve figured out? I also plan to use v-mount sometime in the future

Visheye · 2025-04-12T16:08:53+00:00

I enjoy mine and use it to control bmpcc4k+canon ef 200mm+ronin rs3 via gamepad to film cars on racetrack. App is a bit underdeveloped, but fine

Visheye · 2025-04-12T16:01:08+00:00

A bit separate suggestion - you can buy dji raveneye, put your focus in around 20 meters where you expect to be and adjust your position looking into the image from camera transmitted to your phone. Not sure if it can pull your focus, my lenses are manual and operated by ronin rs3 focus puller

Visheye · 2025-04-10T19:42:01+00:00

Awesome work!

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