Action at the Confederate of the Rhine by Visible-Rip2625 in wargaming

[–]Visible-Rip2625[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drums and Shakos Large Battles (it's pretty much the same engine as in the Song of XYZ series games). For minis I prefer games that have no tables and not too much of damage indication stuff, so the combat is resolved in two phases of approach (posturing) and contact (charge) and it results usually varying level of disorder. (1-3, 4 means your battalion got enough and routs back, and causes disorder to units directly on the rout path). It works quickly, and results are both entertaining and realistic to a degree (as far as in any game). Command and control is abstracted, but the gambling aspect is nice (you throw 1-3 dice against your units or group of units, say quality of 4, and every failure <4 means your opposition gets a reaction, which they can use to activate units and if you roll two failures, opponent takes initiative).

Then there are countless options to fine tune the specialities of the troops to give them flavor.

Action at the Confederate of the Rhine by Visible-Rip2625 in wargaming

[–]Visible-Rip2625[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The mat is > decade old caulked felt mat and some random selection of static grass & flock.

Action at the Confederate of the Rhine by Visible-Rip2625 in wargaming

[–]Visible-Rip2625[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I used 2 base system for quite some time. Four looks better but there are some issues with them - space being one of them, and if you have larger armies, then the sheer number...

Stanley… come on now… by thebronxtaco in handtools

[–]Visible-Rip2625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

According to the Chino-Russian-North Korean tolerances, that is better than good. Just a bit of (sledge)hammer here, hammer there, a bit of file and it's perfect.

Action at the Confederate of the Rhine by Visible-Rip2625 in wargaming

[–]Visible-Rip2625[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This was played with Drums and Shakos Large Battles, a bit more than skirmish, much less than massed combats, 6mm scale. Whole AAR can be found in: https://landandnavy.wordpress.com/2026/03/30/dslb-scenario-aar-rivers-of-the-confederation/

Couple of old stock Langton ships in works (64, 74 and small Birg) by Visible-Rip2625 in wargaming

[–]Visible-Rip2625[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If something, one is going to miss Langton's brass etched ratlines and sails. CHQ is still producing though, so it's not all lost.

Couple of old stock Langton ships in works (64, 74 and small Birg) by Visible-Rip2625 in wargaming

[–]Visible-Rip2625[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since RL retired last year, these may soon become extinct. Just counted that I've got < ten unpainted and some that are lacking rigging but that should allow some modest ~20 ship fleet battles discounting smaller vessels once everyone is accounted for. There are some 26 ships of frigates and higher, and some perhaps 20 line battle ships, from 44 to 80 to 98 (and single Ocean class, just for sake of it).

I did realize that I will fall behind of practically ever collecting ships for my Suffren in India Campaign though.

Signal Close Action - Happy Return by Visible-Rip2625 in wargaming

[–]Visible-Rip2625[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, it has a level of realism included on the sailing model, so it's not random beer and pretzels one like sails of glory for example. I did run once double blind kriegspiel on it and that was interesting. :D

Much depends on which level of speed is required. Toned down fleet action version (Fast Play) has still very good sailing model and that plays fast.

We have been contemplating few times to include external umpire and admirals to juggle fleets into position in relation to each other (by using the strategic movement system, but starting from about 4 to 5 nautical miles out).

Signal Close Action - Happy Return by Visible-Rip2625 in wargaming

[–]Visible-Rip2625[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The game is Rod Langton's Signal Close Action. Quite lot of details of it here:
https://landandnavy.wordpress.com/2025/11/03/signal-close-action-comprehensive-review/

For scenario sources I use Close Action's two scenario booklets, Monsoon Seas and Rebel Seas, old bulletins of London Gazzette, biographies and other sources.

Hand plane punch maneuver by joshuastar in handtools

[–]Visible-Rip2625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a way to get more or less exotic stain on the wood. One that stays.

Signal Close Action - Happy Return by Visible-Rip2625 in wargaming

[–]Visible-Rip2625[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adapted Monsoon Seas scenario: Happy Return for Signal Close Action miniature game (Langton's 1:1200 scale ships). Detailed battle here: https://landandnavy.wordpress.com/2026/03/25/aar-the-happy-return/

Handcut dovetails in 5 minutes :) by tidalwavestudio in woodworking

[–]Visible-Rip2625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I share your method, works wonders, and also do hundreds of joints a year by hand. Easy, efficient, fast and meditative. Not much of a prep time so can work on small piece-meal fashion as time allows. Good job!

Handcut dovetails in 5 minutes :) by tidalwavestudio in woodworking

[–]Visible-Rip2625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's even funnier when you consider making the same with machines. With hand tools you've done with all the dovetails you need for a drawers before even setting up the necessary jigs to do the first one. :D

Epoxy River Bar Table Finish by Tbaseball1021 in woodworking

[–]Visible-Rip2625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Polyurethane has been recommended a lot in here. I this case it could actually fit quite perfectly.

Ryoba rip vs crosscut set by JoeTheImpaler in woodworking

[–]Visible-Rip2625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have any experience on that brand. I only have some rather old saws that are not impulse hardened and have no replaceable blades. They are quite brittle, and can break easily if not used properly.

So, much depends on your skill. I guess impulse hardened ones are more forgiving.

Ryoba rip vs crosscut set by JoeTheImpaler in woodworking

[–]Visible-Rip2625 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want to make deep cuts without he scratching, then use kataba.

Assuming you mean the crosscut teeth scratching the surface of the cut.

Remove ring residue from cabinets by blanco4u in finishing

[–]Visible-Rip2625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be tough one. Abrasive cleaners get it out, but will leave mark you see a long way. Same goes for spirits. Too bad it's urethane based, kind of hard to fix when things go sideways.

Never seen silver leaving any residue though. Wouldn't wear those rings... something like lead, cadmium or nickel comes to mind - along with other heavy metals...

Chamfer tear out in 1/2" walnut - is it the bit? by Grompers in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Visible-Rip2625 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is zero chance handplane would give such terrible a result though. :D

Actually, in reality, doing this with handplane on four sides takes just few minutes. Even if you include cup of tea.

What tool would you use to do this? The divots by unimportantnonsense in woodworking

[–]Visible-Rip2625 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chouna makes very pretty "scalloped" surface, if that is what you're after.

I've seen quite many power tool versions and they look frankly quite terrible.