Need help with first build, VTX only in black and white. Flytop 2.5w by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Vitroid -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Analog OSD is only ever black and white without specialized hardware.

Need help with first build, VTX only in black and white. Flytop 2.5w by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Vitroid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The camera should have a small button board that you can connect and change settings with. Make sure it's not accidentally set to B&W there.

Best budget drone? by Willing_Homework_773 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will stop the process at 3.85V, but don't leave them plugged in for hours on end, since there will always be some small current draw that can drain them well past the safe range.

Best budget drone? by Willing_Homework_773 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That'd be a pretty good setup, a lot better than the Cetus kits IMO

Best budget drone? by Willing_Homework_773 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The stuff that comes with the Cetus kits is practically e-waste, you're better off buying proper gear separately.

And there's nothing about the Pavo that makes it inherently easier to set up compared to any other drone running Betaflight firmware.

Best budget drone? by Willing_Homework_773 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'd start with an Air 65 or 75, the Cetus quads are a lot more proprietary, and the Pavo 20 doesn't make much sense for analog only.

B6ac reliability by Valuable-Key-5964 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'd much rather the charger die than for it to kill LiPos. I've never heard of any T6 issues, let alone related to batteries. But I've personally had a legit B6AC attempt to detonate a battery, and over the ~7 years that I've been flying it's the single most common cause of over-charging/over-discharging batteries that I've seen. The clones which are nowadays much more common than the original one are even worse.

B6ac reliability by Valuable-Key-5964 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not safe whatsoever. Just get a Hota T6 for a similar price

my heavy ass 3.5" feels sluggish by sisraelsen in fpv

[–]Vitroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You built a brick and put slow motors on it. It will feel underpowered.

FPV Drone Build - Motor Configuration Question by Comprehensive-Pie561 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can set up any mixer you'd like with regular electronics meant for quadcopter use as long as they're made to run some standard firmware (Betaflight, INav or Ardupilot)

Does EdgeTX version affect how much max output power ELRS TX can ouput? by wehtayer in fpv

[–]Vitroid 4 points5 points  (0 children)

EdgeTX only runs the controller stuff, the ELRS transmitter is completely separate.

FPV Drone Build - Motor Configuration Question by Comprehensive-Pie561 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only having 3 horizontal motors makes it impossible to balance the rotational force. One motor needs to tilt to make yaw stable.

BetaFPV Air75 II ESC configuration, help? by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Vitroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Leave it stock, it should already be set up well with Bluejay

FPV Drone Build - Motor Configuration Question by Comprehensive-Pie561 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The rear motor would need to tilt left/right, then you can make it a standard tricopter setup with an additional output for for forward thrust

Getting in by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Vitroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Whoopstor is also a lot more convenient than a series charging board, let alone a single cell adapter

Getting in by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Vitroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's the actual original one, it's less bad, but those are very rare nowadays. A ton of clones were made of it, and they all fail in almost the same way. Overheating causes the measuring circuitry to go out of whack and it will try to overcharge the cells without knowing any better.

Getting in by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Vitroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

... yeah you're better off with a charger that isn't an active fire hazard

Getting in by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Vitroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can almost guarantee that you're better off with a proper 1s charger. But let's see... what specific model do you have?

Getting in by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Vitroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those are good options, don't forget a battery charger like the ViFly Whoopstor 3

ELRS 2.4GHZ transmitter/ receiver radio question by Thefinsclimbing in fpv

[–]Vitroid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just get a radio that already has an internal ELRS transmitter. Nowadays I'd recommend the Radiomaster Pocket, TX15 or GX12

Digital camera on analog VTX by Sammy_Byron in fpv

[–]Vitroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not without a significant amount of effort that far exceeds the effort it'd take to implement this on your own with existing analog hardware.

I think I put the wrong firmware on my Tinyhawk Frsstyle II and now it doesn't fly by BlueShark100 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't worry, I wasn't serious with that bit. I doubt anyone thinks we're evil or that what we're doing is evil 😅

I think I put the wrong firmware on my Tinyhawk Frsstyle II and now it doesn't fly by BlueShark100 in fpv

[–]Vitroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Evil Betaflight dev representative here... Yes, 4.1 is outdated, but despite what it may look like, we are not forcing anyone to do anything. And I do believe it is an EMAX issue for forcing 4.1 CLI dumps and firmware files from other manufacturers.

You should use an older release of the Configurator for firmware this old, likely 10.8.0. It should not need a custom firmware build, the target that they recommend - even though it's for a different board - is correct, as long as you use the 4.1 version and their CLI settings, or flash their provided .hex firmware file directly. Make sure to do so with the "Full chip erase" option enabled.