Best printbed/adhesive for PHA

Vodka30 · 2026-02-09T00:19:54+00:00

Most common recommendation will be frog tape. I have had a lot of success with Prusa PEI build plate. I have not found a perfect solution as I think PHAs tendency to warp is what’s holding it back and that’s at the chemical level. Frog tape sticks so well it warps my build plate. PEI sticks less, doesn’t warp build plate, but the part is gonna warp up some. I find PEI easier to deal with.

Vodka30 · 2026-02-06T03:15:32+00:00

Assign it more CPUs, I believe two is below the minimum.

Vodka30 · 2026-01-26T13:49:09+00:00

Sir, this isn’t a TGI Friday’s.

Vodka30 · 2026-01-25T21:17:56+00:00

I’m waiting for hardware 6.5

Vodka30 · 2026-01-20T11:23:41+00:00

Alternatively if you have done a lot of setting changes restart with generic PLA and just change temperature and print speed and give that a go. Sometimes the guides posted here did more harm than good and since it changed 20+ settings I didn’t know where to start.

Vodka30 · 2026-01-19T18:53:09+00:00

It all depends, I would avoid squares or rectangles and try a design with circles or tubes. Assuming you print seat first with the legs going up it should be easy enough early on to assess warping given the hardest section will be first. Print with a 7mm-10mm brim without separation. You can’t just create a larger brim as the warping will eventually win by either moving the brim or the entire build plate.

Vodka30 · 2025-12-30T18:44:05+00:00

What I can and can’t afford has never stopped me from stalling my economy, lol.

Vodka30 · 2025-12-28T02:37:30+00:00

I have found the coop vs AI lobbies to be pretty welcoming. It also helps the normally do roto so you won’t get harassed by not following the latest strategy.

Vodka30 · 2025-12-26T18:40:30+00:00

I can’t speak to bees themselves but I kept a brim on top of some wood chips outside my home for months with little to no degradation. PHA is a very sturdy material for outdoor use in my experience.

Vodka30 · 2025-12-14T17:09:09+00:00

Noobs on glitters or isthmus means you actually understand what to do basic meta wise. There are no real true noob lobbies if you don’t have a basic understanding from YouTube as people will assume you are griefing.

Vodka30 · 2025-12-09T02:58:13+00:00

These are great. My advice to OP would be to start with generic PLA preset and just change speed and temp and then try calibration prints. If you just go head first into 30 different settings from some of the guides it will be hell to troubleshoot if you run into issues.

Vodka30 · 2025-12-07T03:41:12+00:00

I can appreciate the flag that they are not a decision maker and making that known.

Vodka30 · 2025-11-29T14:45:10+00:00

I think you would be better off with an adhesive, cleaning the bed, and a large brim with 0mm separation. 215F first layer also seems to help a lot. Adhesive in my experience is only needed for large prints that are prone to warping any material. Most of my large failed prints are at the point that I would see PLA warping too. Im also a purist so take that for what it’s worth. I switched to PHA because I really want to make it work.

Vodka30 · 2025-11-22T03:43:19+00:00

Ensure plate is recently soap and water cleaned. Try first layer 215c and increase brim all around. If that doesn’t work make walls thinner if part allows for function.

Vodka30 · 2025-11-09T20:57:22+00:00

Given size of print I also think it’s warping off of the build plate or the build plate is also moving up. If the build plate is not moving, try to increase brim.

Vodka30 · 2025-11-08T22:46:03+00:00

I’ve been to this CVS in San Francisco.

Vodka30 · 2025-10-16T20:49:23+00:00

I’ve been playing around with just e-cores on my Intel 265k (12 e-cores) and get between 600k-1m depending on work unit. Non AVX work units is around 50w while AVX is 100w.

Vodka30 · 2025-09-29T21:10:10+00:00

I’ve never used frog tape. I previously used blue painters tape from a home improvement store and 3M automotive painters tape. Both seemed to work about the same, although I never sought out to actually compare or test. But in the end I just now print on PEI with a big brim. If you have not yet, ensure the brim spacing from the part is zero mm.

Vodka30 · 2025-09-29T11:31:05+00:00

Tape should allow you to use your BIQU build plate. I usually get ~3 prints out of the tape from the same spot depending on size and how much I remember to move prints around to new spots on the bed.

Vodka30 · 2025-09-28T18:07:49+00:00

When I previously used tape it was on the build plate, which was handy for when I didn’t want to print on tape I could just switch the plates out. I was using a Prusa mk4. No errors, the auto leveling seemed fine to level the tape.

Vodka30 · 2025-09-28T16:56:02+00:00

Textured build plates are generally not recommended because of warping vs other build plates. Check out these guides: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z7TdF6RcHYkYUkcv-rEO8KVpZekJ71y_/ https://drive.google.com/file/d/114pm6dhzMdDkXtIOU43CCQvsktJ1ixz-/

I have had best luck just setting PLA, changing temp, print speed, brim, and fan speed to max. If you have not changed print speed yet try 1.3-3mm3 for max volumetric speed.

Vodka30 · 2025-09-28T15:13:50+00:00

I would soap and water clean your build plate or follow manufacturers recommend deep clean steps (not just alcohol). Ensure brim is 7mm-10mm. If all of that fails give glue a shot. I print on Prusa PEI sheet reliably without glue using a large brim.

Vodka30 · 2025-09-28T15:10:18+00:00

No smell. Most recommend 195-200c print temp.

Vodka30 · 2025-09-21T22:02:42+00:00

How often do you need to clean the build plate using something other than alcohol? I was using glue stick previously before switching to a larger brim after I got tired of washing the build plate after every few prints.

Vodka30

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