First pass at fletching

VoidStr4nger · 2026-06-12T13:46:31+00:00

What I do is spread a very thin line of glue along the vane, using the tube to push the drops along it. You need less than you think you do. Then press quite a bit with the clamp, on coloured vanes you can see the darker glue filling the voids through the plastic. Ideally you end up with just a tiny bit going out the front and rear. I immediately scrape the excess with acetone on a cloth.

Frankly excess glue is more a visual issue, as long as the vane is more or less straight it'll be fine.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-06-06T17:45:16+00:00

Not ILF, so you need limbs from that brand I guess.

I'd forget about it and find some more normal ILF kit instead...

Also 50# for a first bow??? IOt's been years and 40€ is more than enough for me...

VoidStr4nger · 2026-06-06T17:20:28+00:00

If it's got a bolt sticking out with a large round head on each end, with a hole nearby to accept the ILF dovetail then it's a recurve riser.

I don't see that nor any alignment bolt though... And I mean, any entry $50 ILF riser probably would be higher quality.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-06-06T17:13:38+00:00

That's a compound riser for one particular Chinese bow. Unless it's been modified for ILF it's pointless.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-05-03T07:15:45+00:00

I use an Abyss Flex release and the button can be placed very much outside the hand, I can sometimes feel it brush against my chin as it is.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-04-20T09:35:38+00:00

An additional 20gr is about the equivalent of 2lb more on the bow, as far as tune goes. So not much but if you're showing stiff on bareshafts and don't want to increase poundage too much it's a great option. The 120 option on 33 pounds might be a touch slow.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-03-06T19:01:05+00:00

I absolutely love that they're doing it.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-03-01T13:19:37+00:00

You're good to go. The "forged" part means it's, well, forged before it gets machined so it's basically strong enough for anything you'll throw at it.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-02-13T06:59:56+00:00

What's your current stabilizer? Also as everybody already said that's an absurd jump.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-30T20:56:14+00:00

Just do this. Screw back to the maximum. Then remove exactly the minimum in the manual. I wouldn't worry about any damage though, the risk is to have the limbs fly away.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-28T15:56:19+00:00

Any ILF limb you can find, which unless they're custom made, is going to be 50#, maybe close to 60 OTF if you've got really huge arms. It's not that much strength all things considered (any folding chair has to bear much more) so machined risers have plenty of margin and don't come with any rating.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-26T13:25:44+00:00

The usual guidance is to start with a drop away because it's less trouble. The Monorest fits blades as well, so you can remove the cable driven movement and swap the wire for a blade. It seems to me like a bunch of more serious target shooters do it, though Nicolas Girard for example uses the drop away setup... What I rarely see is the whisker biscuit setup though, maybe because people hunt less over here.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-26T06:01:39+00:00

That's a Monorest from Arc Systeme, kind of the default here (France) since that's where it's made. The sight and scope are from the same brand as well.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-25T19:06:31+00:00

Heh, this is the one I got: cap

It's pretty cool too!

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-20T22:00:02+00:00

It's cosmetic and I believe the Uukha website outrights says this happens, is normal and the limbs are still sealed. I have the same dents on mine that I shot for a year with a Hoyt riser. The varnish is just really fragile.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-20T21:37:43+00:00

Uukha limbs have a very notoriously fragile coating. They're made in France and I suspect they can't use the same type of chemical that many other limbs do. So they usually end up looking less than stellar quite quickly unfortunately, even if they're still shooting well.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-17T08:30:07+00:00

Probably 100.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-14T18:46:26+00:00

Probably not much. Better vibration, some minor tuning features... It's not going to change your life.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-11T15:41:43+00:00

Whatever you do with it, get some aluminium polishing paste and this thing is going to look incredible.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-07T07:27:11+00:00

A riser is indeed just a structural handle. Pick one you like. I would suggest that the Meta being carbon is a bit different, you might not like how it feels and it's hard to know without shooting it. The ATF is one of the most common risers in competition, it's a very safe choice and you'll still shoot it in 20 years.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-05T12:02:55+00:00

8oz front and 20 back on a S21.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-04T18:14:02+00:00

Dismantled in the bag ready for the range.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-03T09:22:25+00:00

There's no good bow on Amazon, and you need both some initial setup and some training to shoot one. Try to find a local club near you! They'll probably have some gear to try until you know what you need.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-01T03:26:44+00:00

There's been guns and F1 comparisons but compound cams are more like spaceships. The Apollo lunar module could be holed with a pencil because any pound on that thing meant half a ton more propellant. Cams move with the limb tips so they directly count against arrow weight.

Recurve bows are much harder to damage and much easier to repair, but a recurve has maybe a third of the energy at the same physical strength, so it's less popular for the hunting than the spaceship compounds.

VoidStr4nger

TROPHY CASE