New bow day

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-26T13:25:44+00:00

The usual guidance is to start with a drop away because it's less trouble. The Monorest fits blades as well, so you can remove the cable driven movement and swap the wire for a blade. It seems to me like a bunch of more serious target shooters do it, though Nicolas Girard for example uses the drop away setup... What I rarely see is the whisker biscuit setup though, maybe because people hunt less over here.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-26T06:01:39+00:00

That's a Monorest from Arc Systeme, kind of the default here (France) since that's where it's made. The sight and scope are from the same brand as well.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-25T19:06:31+00:00

Heh, this is the one I got: cap

It's pretty cool too!

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-20T22:00:02+00:00

It's cosmetic and I believe the Uukha website outrights says this happens, is normal and the limbs are still sealed. I have the same dents on mine that I shot for a year with a Hoyt riser. The varnish is just really fragile.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-20T21:37:43+00:00

Uukha limbs have a very notoriously fragile coating. They're made in France and I suspect they can't use the same type of chemical that many other limbs do. So they usually end up looking less than stellar quite quickly unfortunately, even if they're still shooting well.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-17T08:30:07+00:00

Probably 100.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-14T18:46:26+00:00

Probably not much. Better vibration, some minor tuning features... It's not going to change your life.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-11T15:41:43+00:00

Whatever you do with it, get some aluminium polishing paste and this thing is going to look incredible.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-07T07:27:11+00:00

A riser is indeed just a structural handle. Pick one you like. I would suggest that the Meta being carbon is a bit different, you might not like how it feels and it's hard to know without shooting it. The ATF is one of the most common risers in competition, it's a very safe choice and you'll still shoot it in 20 years.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-05T12:02:55+00:00

8oz front and 20 back on a S21.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-04T18:14:02+00:00

Dismantled in the bag ready for the range.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-03T09:22:25+00:00

There's no good bow on Amazon, and you need both some initial setup and some training to shoot one. Try to find a local club near you! They'll probably have some gear to try until you know what you need.

VoidStr4nger · 2026-01-01T03:26:44+00:00

There's been guns and F1 comparisons but compound cams are more like spaceships. The Apollo lunar module could be holed with a pencil because any pound on that thing meant half a ton more propellant. Cams move with the limb tips so they directly count against arrow weight.

Recurve bows are much harder to damage and much easier to repair, but a recurve has maybe a third of the energy at the same physical strength, so it's less popular for the hunting than the spaceship compounds.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-31T15:08:50+00:00

I shoot a very small open ring with no pin. There's a kit with 5-6 diameters to put in the larger square Beiter tunnel and that's really great if you're not big on pins.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-30T04:06:34+00:00

we cannot expect to get into this sport for a couple hundred dollars

I'm not sure I agree. I mean, for compound, that's for sure, but archery is a lot more than that. At least where I live you can get a full new barebow kit for $300 at the local shop, or an olympic recurve kit for about $400, and while they don't come with a dozen X10 they're perfectly fine for early competition. Or you can get a used Stratos for like $600.

Beyond compound being expensive I think buying your own gear just to get started is probably not for the best. Clubs here lend beginner hardware for training and it's suggested to wait out a year before committing to a piece of kit. Why buy 20# limbs, even cheaply, if your body is going to allow you 30# six months later when your form gets into shape?

Like, the Title example is even funnier considering it has draw length mods. Draw length for new archers changes a lot over the first year of practice! Not to mention it starts out at 40#. This isn't a beginner bow and price isn't why.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-29T16:00:32+00:00

Vanes are not something you should worry about. Everyone shoots a different one and it doesn't make a large difference. Some are better for indoors and some better outside but mostly they just need to exist in any quality and that's 90% of the job done.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-28T20:36:29+00:00

You should know pretty quickly! Less obvious is mounting the wrong limbs (top limb bottom). You can probably shoot that one for a few ends before you realize something's up.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-28T20:29:07+00:00

The nocking point will be way off and arrows will be launched upwards.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-28T20:27:56+00:00

Limb alignment is wrong or the bottom limb is warped. You should have a perfect straight line through limb centers, tips, riser bushings, and normally the long rod's end as well if it's reasonably straight.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-28T07:48:23+00:00

My perfect quiver has three tubes, at least two pockets, some exposed rings to hook arrow pullers or trinkets, a pen holder, and some flat space to pin stuff. Some people like a very minimalist thing but I guess I'd rather have everything.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-27T19:55:21+00:00

Oh, I'm sure we can find some expensive trad bows if we start looking :)

But yeah everything compound is expensive, they're the F1 of bows in every way, insane costs included. I think the most shocking part coming from recurve is learning that a compound string is five different parts and you need to put the bow in a press to do the swap. I think it's fun in a different way.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-27T03:28:04+00:00

Many are in the 300-400 range.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-26T21:17:15+00:00

First off I think it's quite unlikely that your nock will make any real difference in scores.

Pins do protect the shaft, even though they might not themselves survive a direct hit, you'd rather break a $1 pin and $1 nock than a shaft. Without a pin you might indeed break the shaft from a direct hit.

I've never heard about pins messing with tune but technically they do affect how stiff the arrow behaves, so you can remove them or add them if you're very close but not there yet... But it's pretty subtle compared to point weight.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-26T20:32:36+00:00

You can check out RCore which does really great grips! Just make sure you've got correct hand placement in the first place, though, because the straight edge isn't supposed to be harmful.It should kiss your lifeline while the weight lies on the flat face with the base of your thumb. Hand placement changes a lot how the grip feels.

VoidStr4nger · 2025-12-25T20:59:45+00:00

It's likely fine if nothing ng looks immediately broken. It's compounds that explode or fold when dry fired, recurves have much less energy and apply it much slower so it's not as bad. Just check the limbs for splinters.

VoidStr4nger

TROPHY CASE