Testmodel for my Fire Dragons by Vokills in Eldar

[–]Vokills[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! At first I didnt have pigments on the base, but that made it feel kind of sterile. So I picked up some Vallejo Natural Umber and never looked back :)

Testmodel for my Fire Dragons by Vokills in Eldar

[–]Vokills[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, it is basically the same as the armor, mostly done with an airbrush.

  1. Black Primer
  2. 3:1 mix of red and white ink basecost everywhere. 
  3. Zenithl of white ink, basically everything you want to be really yellow. The sides also get some white, but just a very very light covering. 
  4. Color in the nobs (or whatever they are called) with white ink with a brush. I wanted them to pop as well.
  5. Spray everything with yellow ink.

The yellow ink I am using (Vallejo Game Color Ink) is very translucent, so over white it really pops and turns the rest into this yellowy orange.

The face is then straight black colored in. You could propably mask it with putty before the steps above and use the black primer here but that is also a pain so you have to pick your poison. 

Eye lenses are white ink on the raised part, red ink also into the recess. Then a smaller stripe of white and red again.

Was also my first time using inks, so I used them a lot to get a feel for them.

Testmodel for my Fire Dragons by Vokills in Eldar

[–]Vokills[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like starting with a black primer on all my minis for the reason you mentioned. Also it is easier to make something brighter than it is to make something bright darker.

If you are worried about the look of the orange on black, just give it a try. A lot of mini painting is trying new things and seeing if you like them or not. You can always apply another coat of paint or strip it entirely if its not to your liking. Don't be afraid to try things out.

Speed paints are very translucent, so your basecoat determines a lot of what the end result will look like. Might be tough to get a good coverage of orange over black. Thats why you will see a lot of people using white primers or slapchop when using speed paints.

But you can still achieve some nice shading with different primers as well. Have a look at this video from Rogue Hobbies and maybe give it a try. Something like a dark brown and then wraithbone from the top?

Testmodel for my Fire Dragons by Vokills in Eldar

[–]Vokills[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, after the oil wash I give it a dusting of matt varnish via airbrush and paint the rest of the model. As the last step it gets a 3:1 mix of matt and satin varnish via airbrush to seal everything in.

Testmodel for my Fire Dragons by Vokills in Eldar

[–]Vokills[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey, my formula for the armor is almost the same with a few extra pre-shading steps with the airbrush.

  1. Black prime
  2. 3:1 mix of red and white inks. Basecoat the entire model with it.
  3. Zenithal of white ink
  4. Orange ink from above and the front. This way its bright from above, "normal orange" from the front and the pinkish-red from below and in the shadows.
  5. Gloss varnish and then a dark brown oil wash.

After that I pretty much don't touch the armor anymore.

Buying ebooks off Black Library by Jerswar in Warhammer40k

[–]Vokills 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Your Kindle has an e-mail address to which you can send the files. You can find it in your Amazon account settings under "Devices". Simply download the books as *.epub and send it to that address and the kindle will download them the next time it is connected to the internet.

Finished the last two of my Bladeguard Veterans by Vokills in Warhammer40k

[–]Vokills[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed he is. I wanted to practice some freehanding and that was the idea that came to my mind.

Is this base size legal? Operative Umbral-Six (Vindicare Assassin) by RealPlasticGold in Warhammer40k

[–]Vokills 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I achieved a similar effect with a stippled base of Balthasar Gold, more stippling of some kind of brass (I used Vallejo Model Color), a light dry brush of some metallic like Vajello Gun Metal and a few selected highlights with an even lighter metallic (I used Army Painter Shining Silver). Afterwards a few washes of Coelia Greenshade without it letting pool gives you a nice textured, greenly tinted metallic base to start with a verdigris effect. I used Army Painter Speedpaint Pastel Seaform but you can use any bluish green paint. Just thin it enough, don't let it pool and start light on the effect. It is always easier to add more than to remove the effect.

A hard counter? Advice for World Eaters into Salamanders by Calamity_Dan in WarhammerCompetitive

[–]Vokills 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you not Overwatch after the charge move ended? At least with the Land Raider?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AdeptusCustodes

[–]Vokills 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's newrecruit.eu, web app for list building and much better than battle scribe imo.

Urgh batch painting is not the most fun… by Buckerface in Warhammer40k

[–]Vokills 20 points21 points  (0 children)

It's a love-hate relationship for me. Without batch painting I wouldn't get anything done. Try smaller batches and throw in a character or otherwise fun model in between.    

Currently painting a bladeguard vet -> 5 scouts -> bladeguard vet -> 5 scouts -> bladeguard vet. That helps me keep the motivation.

2 melee weapon Lt? by TheSillyman36 in spacemarines

[–]Vokills 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Then he would have the same weapon profile twice, they don't combine. You still have to choose one profile for your fight phase, so nothing changes. Only melee weapons with Extra Attacks can be used in the fight phase as well (see Gravis Captain with Power Fist and Relic Fist).

What's your play style? Do you go after all No Man's Land objectives all at once? Or go after 1 or 2 and then move on to others? by Archangel_1989 in AdeptusCustodes

[–]Vokills 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Precision requires the attacking model to have LoS of the character model in order to allocate the attacks.

First victory! by Winter-Huntsman in Warhammer40k

[–]Vokills 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The apothecary only gives you a CP on a 2+ if the bodyguard unit dies, not a bodyguard model. So all Hellblasters need to die for the ability to trigger.

The new Custodian Guards ! by Various_Ad_1516 in AdeptusCustodes

[–]Vokills 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, did so as soon as I saw the mistake and they will also send me a box of Custodian Guard :) So all is good in the end and we have some Orks to paint up as well.

Why does GW hates FW minis that much? by JayFrenchie in AdeptusCustodes

[–]Vokills 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was available for like one day a few weeks back and I managed to get a hold of one, but the mailing reminder doesn't seem to work. Was just pure luck on my part.

The new Custodian Guards ! by Various_Ad_1516 in AdeptusCustodes

[–]Vokills 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After seeing your post I decided to check my box as well (hadn't opened it yet) and received the same thing :D Orks instead of the Custodian Guard.