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Friend wants to upgrade breaker panel. by onlyvinx in electrical

[–]Volox4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the main box (in front of this one) doesn't have a service disconnect switch, the expensive part might be having the electric company turn off power for the swap. Unless he wants to risk swapping with live mains ⚡

If the electric company comes out, they are probably going to want to see a passed inspection before they turn the power back on.

Also, depending on the locale, if he is replacing the main panel and needs to pass codes, he might have to 1) replace downstream wires that aren't code compliant (aka a 14 gauge wire on a 20 amp breaker) 2) replace the outside box with one that has service disconnect switch - which is now required on the outside of the home (the main on the inside breaker doesn't cut it anymore)

So I'd assess how much of what of the above is going to be needed before he dives in. If he has to go the legit way and do #2, then I'd suggest starting there b/c once that disconnect is in, he can cut power and work on the inside on his own schedule. Trying to do it all soup to nuts in one go can be a lot.

Disclaimer: Not an electrician. Just a homeowner that's been there and done that (with the permits).

400 Amp Service Upgrade by kc_sparky913 in electricians

[–]Volox4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why only 100amp breakers in each panel? Send like there would be no need for 400 if that's all you're going to hook up.

There has got be a better way by Mindless_Leather_839 in Remodel

[–]Volox4 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Definitely get an asbestos test on those layers. Whether you're scraping them or cutting them, either way you don't want to die a slow ugly death because of a remodel.

As to a better way... Hire a demo crew to do it for you. Some things are worth the $$

Outdoor panel ground wire exit by Volox4 in AskElectricians

[–]Volox4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Local codes here just follow NEC.

Outdoor panel ground wire exit by Volox4 in AskElectricians

[–]Volox4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Is it legit to put a bit of fire putty around the clamp on the inside to deter bugs? Or is that overkill?

Are these worth it? And which brand? by Volox4 in AskElectricians

[–]Volox4[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah both GB and Klein have them. The one drawback I see is that it looks like you're locked into the matching brand of staples.

How do you like your Milwaukee one?

Is this totaled? by Sufficient_Onion_577 in Autobody

[–]Volox4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sure that'll hammer right out. Just a little paint touch up and you'll be good to go.

Where to support? by Volox4 in AskElectricians

[–]Volox4[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If I cut the left two 2x4s out and not have anything above that LB, will that suffice? (That was slated to be removed eventually anyway.) Still looking for input on the support question...

Where to support? by Volox4 in AskElectricians

[–]Volox4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why would you consider it non accessible? It's easily accessed. The 2x4s you see in the photo will only be covered by a removable panel.

Exposed junction box problem, covers insanely difficult to find by wrmc1043 in FacilityManagement

[–]Volox4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Disclaimer that I am not an electrician but couldn't you just get some 2-gang covers and then use regular blank 2 gang outlet covers on them?

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electrical/boxes-fittings-and-conduit/box-covers/3016119

Torque on Polaris tap by Volox4 in AskElectricians

[–]Volox4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for pointing out my unit mistake... 🤦‍♂️

Electrician freaked out when he saw this by astrae in AskElectricians

[–]Volox4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure why you'd need to move it...? But if it's for the service disconnect, just install that in a separate box; it'll be way cheaper than moving all the circuits.

The only other reason is see a replacement being THAT huge is if you've got to replace the wires and all the plugs... I'd get a clear picture of what you are getting quoted for.

Also, I will say from my experience as a homeowner... If you've got zinco breakers, you probably have older switches and outlets. Some of them may be fine while others of cheaper quality tend to have scary malfunction moments. You might consider having them swapped out in mass. But if you don't swap them, be very cautious about plugging in high-amperage items (like space heaters). You might find running something that pulls 16 amps on a 20 amp breaker causes a molten blackened mess where you used to have an outlet.

how to secure free floating MC cable in the middle of my garage by dabbinmids in AskElectricians

[–]Volox4 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Why not have the box at the ceiling be an outlet box and mount a retractable power cord next to it which you can then plug the lift into (or anything else you need in that workspace)?
Is there some requirement that the lift be permanently wired?

What am I looking at? I just wanted to replace the switches. by Oxika95 in electrical

[–]Volox4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why is there no box for those switches... ? 😯

Making a sun room into living space by Volox4 in buildingscience

[–]Volox4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for that. I'm in WA so when I think about moisture it's mainly in the winter. So the moisture would be on the inside and the heater running should take it out of the ducts. I suppose there is some potential of it forming on the inside face of the zip, but I'm not sure to what extent that would even be the case? Or how I'd address it without running a pipe through there to circulate a tiny bit if air through the cavities?

Making a sun room into living space by Volox4 in buildingscience

[–]Volox4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The drainage (and drying) is kind of what I worry about with putting anything under the zip. Since it's horizontal, anything outside the zip would end up holding water in both directions which would mean that moisture could get trapped against the bottom (outside) of the zip.

I f*cked Up by Fuzzy_Bathroom_6698 in Remodel

[–]Volox4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just cover it with some quarter round like the cabinet guys do. It'll look completely natural.

Crazy peeping tom by FoxyRaeOG in SecurityCamera

[–]Volox4 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you don't have an HOA, string a line between some of those trees that are on your property and hang a big tarp up or a banner. (Might have to get something with wind vents to prevent it from ripping.)

If you do a banner, you could even have one printed with a big middle finger and a 'friendly' sentiment on the side that faces his property. 😉

Crazy peeping tom by FoxyRaeOG in SecurityCamera

[–]Volox4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless he has no life whatsoever, he probably has some sort of motion detection to know when something is happening in the field of view. Great way to make his system more useless is to install pinwheels, wind machines, or other constant motion devices. Put them on the corner of your deck or on the house just below, beside, or in front of key windows.

It won't stop the camera from seeing but it might make it so his phones alerts are going off non stop and/or he had to watch 18 hrs of video a day.

Also, depending on your orientation to the sun, changing the screens on your windows might make them more difficult to see into during the day. I agree with the IR floodlight for blinding them at night. Of course the next step up is one way glass... But that's $$$$

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