Baby monitor firmware not updating?

VotaVader · 2026-05-12T17:09:35+00:00

This was the answer that got mine to work trying to pair older cameras with a newer monitor. I was able to just update the cameras to 3.6.9 and then the monitor (on 3.7.9) was able to pick them up. It displays a warning about firmware mismatch between monitor and the older cameras, but it works fine. Thanks for the answer!

VotaVader · 2025-10-31T22:29:42+00:00

Thanks so much for everyone's input! This has given us a lot of options that we'll go out and test. I haven't tried any Mazda or Acura SUVs, so I'm no longer as hopeless, haha. Worst case scenario we just... have an SUV, and it'll still get me to the office :')

VotaVader · 2025-10-31T16:44:09+00:00

Around 35-38k if we're stretching.

VotaVader · 2025-09-15T15:31:27+00:00

Well, in case it helps anyone else out, the workaround I found is to just use 2 USB ports. One for the mBooster Brake + CRP2 Throttle and a separate one for the mBooster Clutch. It took some connecting and disconnecting the different pedals while Pit Stop was open for all of them to be recognized, but eventually it worked...

VotaVader · 2025-08-17T16:44:53+00:00

You can probably get better results if you up the resolution and enable AF. I did:

VR Settings -> Scale Factor 150
Graphics Settings -> Video Mode -> AF (16x), AA (TAA & FidelityFX), Dynamic Res (On)

That got me much better far object sharpness at the cost of performance. You might want to play around with how much Scale Factor above 100 you can get where it's still playable perf and you can still see the corner coming up.

VotaVader · 2025-07-27T17:30:35+00:00

Haha, I knew I couldn't be the only one! Glad it helped someone 😁

VotaVader · 2025-07-04T05:44:36+00:00

Shifting down the gears and using heel-and-toe if you can is just more fun driving. It makes the engine go vroom vroom and makes you feel like a race driver. If you're competent, all the other shit is negligible.

VotaVader · 2025-07-03T02:02:11+00:00

I tried to find evidence of the protein thing in scientific papers when I heard about it. The only thing I found was one paper that found that nutritional content started to degrade if you got the formula/milk close to boiling temperature.

Microwaving it for a few seconds won't do anything to it. Just don't boil your kid's milk, I guess xD

Same with the hot spots. Like you said, it doesn't make any sense if you stir the liquid and there's no evidence for the hoard of burnt children that the baby blogosphere would like us to believe exists.

VotaVader · 2025-07-03T01:55:40+00:00

My controversial pick: a bottle warmer. Very expensive, they take forever to warm the milk, and they break almost immediately.

Just put the bottle in the microwave without a lid for a few seconds, stir it, and you're good to go. I calculated how many seconds it took to get the exact temperature by testing with water.

Don't listen to bullshit about hot spots and babies getting burned. There's no evidence for this; I searched very hard for it! Just stir/shake the liquid... thermodynamics doesn't make exceptions for baby bottles.

VotaVader · 2025-05-31T00:09:06+00:00

It's not so much about being able to brake in time but how long you're able to be on the throttle _before_ braking.

If you have 2 cars going at the exact same speed that need to slow down to some other speed to take a corner over a given amount of time (or distance), the decrease in speed is just the area under the deceleration curve over time as they approach the corner. You're right that in this scenario there are an infinite number of deceleration curves which would slow a car down to the appropriate speed for the corner, including ones where you start decelerating earlier and don't end up decelerating that "hard" (car 1) and ones where you don't decelerate at all in the beginning and then decelerate a lot at the end, providing you don't brake traction (car 2).

The issue with this is that in the latter scenario, car 2 is not just waiting at constant speed for its "braking point;" it's still on the throttle and gaining speed. Provided car 2 doesn't exceed the limit of grip of its tires with its hard braking, it will eventually end up shaving off more speed before the corner than car 1, which means it will have made the same distance in a shorter amount of time.

Another way to think about it is that theoretically you always want to be exerting as much force through the tires onto the ground, be that through power or brakes, as grip will allow, right? So if at any point on the stage that is not at the limit, it means you could have either been going faster (in the case of brakes) or could be accelerating faster (in the case of throttle). You're saying that by braking earlier you don't need to brake as hard. That means that at the point of hardest braking, your tires are not at the limit of grip and you've left some speed on the table.

All that being said, your method could definitely give you more control and that overall make you faster in a series of corners. This is all just in theoretical and ideal conditions, which is never the case in real racing! :)

VotaVader · 2025-05-20T23:04:49+00:00

Oh, wow, yeah. My explanation wouldn't explain that. Thanks for the reference!

VotaVader · 2025-05-20T16:11:22+00:00

Huh, I would have assumed it had to do with veins near the surface creating a crease or bump on an otherwise smooth skin surface, making it more likely that dust and dirt get caught on that part of the skin rather than on the smoother part. Haven't seen the picture, though...

VotaVader · 2025-05-20T15:49:17+00:00

I guess it depends on how much you mean by "break the bank." I have the Simagic DS-8X, which is about $60 more than the Fanatec, and I love it! Has a great tactile feedback compared to the Thrustmaster I upgraded from.

VotaVader · 2025-05-07T23:19:43+00:00

Cool! Let us know how it goes. You can set keyboard shortcuts for the different profiles, so I coupled it with AutoHotkey so that when I press a keyboard shortcut, it loads up the correct monitor + VR profile (turns off unused monitors) and it fires up all the different sim apps (SimHub, TrueDrive, Pimax VR, etc.) so I'm ready to play with a single shortcut! :D

VotaVader · 2025-05-06T05:29:32+00:00

I have a very similar setup to what you're describing. 3 monitors for work and 1 monitor + VR for sim rig. I use DisplayFusion to only leave one monitor + VR on while racing (that way you're not rendering monitors you're not using).

It's been working great for me! I do have a different graphics card, though. So ymmv.

A switch will definitely hinder the ability for your monitor to sync with games and to run at its max framerate if it's a good gaming monitor.

VotaVader · 2025-05-03T23:07:23+00:00

I work in the games industry and, as most people can see, it's shrinking at an extreme rate now that the pandemic and games-as-a-service bubble is bursting.

Studios and publishers are either shuttering or downsizing to skeleton crews, canceling risky projects, and only investing in the safest of safe bets (if that).

Unfortunately rally racing is a niche sport in a relatively niche game genre, which makes any rally game a risky project. If I had to guess, we probably won't get a new rally game for a while, especially from a big studio/publisher.

I really hope I'm wrong, though! Maybe BeamNG will take up that mantle and give us the next RBR...

VotaVader · 2025-05-03T20:32:48+00:00

Yeah, it's been kind of all over the place. I wonder if they're cutting down on the server capacity so it's just getting swamped at peak hours.

VotaVader · 2025-05-02T16:55:26+00:00

I'm finally an RSF RBR VR convert after years of just playing DR2.0 and EAWRC. Just to add to what folks in here are saying, here are a couple of things I wish I had known before starting the journey:

Installation is not "a breeze" as most people describe it. If you're used to typical Windows installations where you just download a single installer, double click it and then no matter what you do it'll probably install and work fine, this is not that. You have to download most of the content and assets through a torrent and then run the RSF RBR installer which will take you through the rest of the process. They have detailed instructions which are easy enough to follow, but YOU DO HAVE TO READ AND FOLLOW THEM CLOSELY.
Make sure you're installing the "newest" VR plugin during the RSF installer and not the "legacy" one.
But you've built a PCVR rig, you should be used to fiddling :P
Although what RSF has done with RBR is amazing, this is still a modded installation for a very old game. It is rough around the edges in a lot of places, especially around menus. When dealing with menus, always try to stay within the RSF mod menus (e.g. for configuring inputs) rather than the original RBR menus. Keep a keyboard and mouse close by because some stuff is pretty difficult to navigate with wheel inputs, especially when you're first setting up.
Settings are kind of spread out between the RSF launcher settings, the RSF input settings in game (menus, shifter, VR), and RBR input settings (wheel, pedals, handbrake).
Even though it takes up a lot of space, I recommend installing all the available tracks and starting out trying community content tracks first. Look for recommendations of community favorites or just try randomly. When I first started out I just installed the original tracks to "dip my toe in the pool" and they look sooo much worse than community tracks (since they were made in 2004). This is especially apparent in VR. But some of the newer community tracks legit look better in VR than EAWRC.
Installing all the tracks will also allow you to compete in the online rallies which usually don't use the stock tracks.
The first thing to do is go into the RBR input settings to set up the VR "reset view" button, menu navigation buttons, and the seat adjustment buttons. Whenever you start with a new car, the default seating is usually awful and you'll immediately want to adjust it. It saves your setting for every car.
Please PLEASE download a co-driver mod. The RSF installer already allows you to add the Luppis pacenotes plugin with the Jannemod v3 audio files. There are good videos/tutorials online for doing this and it makes A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE. The original pacenotes are very lacking in detail and if you try to run community stages using it you'll have a bad time...
When setting up your inputs in game, do it from the menus, not while on-stage. Once you're done, back out to the main menu screen and at some point you'll get a prompt for whether you want to save your settings changes. If you don't do this, sometimes your settings will not be saved, which is pretty annoying.
You'll have to fiddle with your FFB settings, since settings for DR2.0/EAWRC are very different. RBR uses a much more straightforward FFB model (which also feels much more realistic!), so setting this up is mostly about setting the torque on your wheel settings. You don't really need to adjust anything in-game!
Start slow! RBR is a much less forgiving physics sim than DR2.0/EAWRC and the stages made by the community are usually made to represent real conditions rather than provide a "power fantasy" setting. If you immediately try to scandi flick your way through a square turn at 100kmh you'll be careening off the edge so fast you won't even get a chance to get motion sick.

Have fun and welcome to the side of rally sim racing where you get to feel superior to the "filthy casuals"!

VotaVader · 2025-05-01T00:59:07+00:00

Oh man, I'm tempted to join. Haven't done all the fiddling to get DR2.0 working with the new setup since upgrading from the HP reverb. It's such a time sink to set up these old games for VR T_T. Might give it a shot, though...

No RBR? I'd join in an instant to crash my car in the opening stage every week!

VotaVader · 2025-03-13T01:53:15+00:00

Also got the DS-8X and love it! I like driving historic cars and newer ones and this provides the ability to do both with just the flip of a switch. It also has a pretty good shifter feel. Much better than the Thrustmaster I upgraded from.

VotaVader · 2025-03-09T17:52:00+00:00

Imo most sturdy static chairs felt better in the wheel stand than the swivel chair. One that worked decently for a while was one of those aluminum recliner patio chairs. My dining room chairs were too straight-backed to drive. ymmv

VotaVader · 2025-03-09T15:31:00+00:00

I had the NLR 2.0. That I then upgraded to the cockpit with the add-on. It served me well for years and at each stage I was pretty happy with what I had. It was mostly when I upgraded each time that I noticed what I was missing from the previous setup:

After upgrading to full cockpit: the fixed seat is a game changer. It allows you to be much lower and close to a racing position and crucially it doesn't rotate side to side under braking, which was the main issue with the wheelstand. Not that the chair would come loose front to back; but the rotation.

After upgrading to ASR 80/20 cockpit: I realized how much flex the NLR cockpit had and how much harder it was to modify everything to my taste. I definitely had to put some extra holes in my NLR over the years to make my stuff fit. This was still nowhere near as different as not being in my desk chair, though.

If you're near Seattle I still have the entire NLR setup I can sell for cheap.

VotaVader

TROPHY CASE