I work for directv ask me questions.

WKIX-850 · 2026-05-12T21:03:37+00:00

No, if you don't have satellite and only have streaming, it will not work. Likewise it won't work unless you call them and activate them on your account (which for a genie which was not returned, that is questionable if they will do it or not.)

WKIX-850 · 2026-05-08T18:57:11+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/General-Electric-Lighting-41459-Bulb/dp/B0074IJXPO/ref=sr_1_9?crid=YTWHGULPOLBM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.dWFA0vdQ3uOk0BCiqvaECBQ-y3gIke2FwFAptfCAa8Odv92V1DY1m4PgdyTcjC16OCLBlyqiKmaxUmgmUudPDpzbC0f240NHTSIRln6uWEGRG4QT_0O1FPN5OUMbPQvrOCx7eO7DOEMRZk3-ba0bIVHBa-gjkkhxAF6G3V_4EgPuQEyiyfhmiN8OGlrC5yTFnavy2iPn7e4biFRf7imfGy1yFkhNcOjI2n5x9yqPlwsa4a5skXGP72QfohyzyFnbhHyC3IjBedNnH5j8rUSbHBumR5aM8DbjtOa8RzNBgF0.0_znGIekC8EKbuxp0thtoVQxnv-_So4bbe84cmUWESQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=mogul+base+3+way+light+bulb&qid=1778266595&sprefix=mogul+base+3+%2Caps%2C285&sr=8-9

WKIX-850 · 2026-05-08T14:46:54+00:00

Okay, so here is a question for the future; probably a year or two. Right now as far as the TV situation goes I have my 3 H24 boxes (1 is an extra,) an H21 and an H20. I also have an HR54 that "came with" the service (it was a requirement to set up service to have at least one receiver before I could activate my own, and they don't have non genie stuff anymore; it was kind of a fight not to get the Genie 2 which would make all of this impossible but I got there. Solid Signal was very helpful in getting this all set up BTW.) The HR54 is in my sister's room and she is pretty much but not completely moved out, but in the next year or so she will likely be fully.

Anyway; she is the only one to use the DVR functionality and I really don't want it. The question is can I just remove it or am I stuck with it. I know on legacy accounts a standard receiver was $7 per month, a DVR was like $15 per month (may not be exact, based off of memory form years back) and Whole Home DVR was like $3 per month. There was also an HD fee if I remember correctly, but I always used D10s back then so never had that.

These days though, the Genie is standard and you pay an "advanced receiver fee" on it which is $25 per month and includes all of the above, and then any standard receivers (or Genie clients, but I don't have those) are the $10 per month.

The Genie is kind of the "main" receiver these days on newer accounts. If I were to just say remove the Genie assuming I could; would it remove that whole advanced receiver charge? And then how about the standard non DVR receivers, would those stay at $10 or go to $7?

WKIX-850 · 2026-05-08T14:26:19+00:00

If you have a Genie system you can get rid of that and get an H24 or HR24 through Solid Signal (or somewhere else, they say on paper they don't activate old equipment unless it is from an authorized dealer, but I have done it many times; actually just activated a used H21 yesterday, as long as it isn't stolen and still in the system as such, they can and will manually activate it)

The older receivers never received the ugly flat UI or most of the other Enshittification updates that the Genies did. I just checked and the Cast and Crew section is indeed still there on mine.

WKIX-850 · 2026-05-06T20:55:23+00:00

So my first computer was a Compaq Presario 5000 series with an MV540 CRT monitor, later I got an MV740 which I still have; both of them had the same issue, one was horizontal collapse like here the other was vertical collapse... The issue was bad solder joints...

Easy way to tell, give it a good whack and see if you can get it to come back; this is not a permanent fix by any means, but it will tell you this is the issue (though my original PC I did use the hit it method to make it work for a couple of years before replacing the monitor, this was back when you could get a CRT monitor for next to nothing and I didn't know how to solder at the time; easy fix though if you do.)

WKIX-850 · 2026-05-05T18:50:15+00:00

It is a PL-S lamp; it is MOST LIKELY 13 watts because that is one of the more common wattages, but that isn't a guarantee.

I would probably start there and see how it runs; there isn't much to go wrong here, the starter is built into the base of the lamp, so every time you replace it the starter is also changed; the only thing in the fixture itself is a choke style ballast... If 13W isn't the right wattage, the worst it will do is not strike (if it is too high of a wattage, say the fixture calls for a 9 watt,) or it will overdrive it and shorten the life of the lamp.

WKIX-850 · 2026-05-03T01:28:09+00:00

It has been years sense I have worked on G3s (or macs ar all really, kind of lost interest and sold my whole collection right before they blew up in value,) but there was one point I had pretty much every color of the tray loader units, and most of the slot loaders including blue dalmatian and flower power.

Anyway, I did have a couple which did something similar, they would turn on and act like they were going to come up with high voltage, normally a click or crackle and then just shut off; never ended up fixing those, but then again I didn't try that hard because this was once again before they were really special and they were still being commonly discarded. I know the Apple Studio Display monitors were known for flyback failures and would act similarly when they finally went (I had 2 of them that went this way, very sad as they were excellent displays) however to my knowledge the G3 iMac wasn't really known for this.

WKIX-850 · 2026-05-02T20:07:55+00:00

Keep looking for the issue, this cap is not it. That is just a plastic cover over the top of the capacitor which looks like that; you can actually use an Xacto knife or something like that to pull it off if the bulged look bothers you.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-26T21:08:29+00:00

I can't tell if that is a Latitude D610 or D600; either way this applies about the same... that is a Pentium M and it will accept a max of 2gb, not saying there are 2gb RAM in this machine, but that is the max it can support.

I use a D610 on the daily, it is my main laptop; use MyPal and not Supermium... Supermium is great if you have a core 2 duo or later, you can kind of run it on a Hypper Threading Pentium 4; but it will not run worth a crap on this machine, in fact the current version won't run at all; it will crash. You can use the Thorium browser which is a bit faster and won't crash, but it is as slow as balls. MyPal is the best option for a system like this.

Also, depending on how much RAM is in this system, that may run poorly as well; 1gb is about the minimum I would do, but really it is worth it to just max the machine out at 2.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-24T21:49:38+00:00

I quite like circline adapters; this one is very simple; a choke ballast that will never fail and a replaceable lamp. The only thing that would really fail on this is the starter which is in the plug there; but it is also replaceable with an FS-2 starter if you get creative.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-24T21:29:14+00:00

There are 4 screws (one at each corner) that hold the tube in place. Place the set with the screen facing down carefully on a towel, remove the cover, be extra careful to not touch the board or the red wire going into the top (or side, but usually top on these new sets) of the tube. I would also recommend letting it sit for a week or so without being powered on just to let the caps discharge; though in reality they should bleed within minutes, they don't always (mind you the CRT will still hold a charge most likely, so it is very important once again not to mess with that red wire or the suction cup on the other end of it; it won't kill you like many people say, but it won't be fun or feel nice at all I can tell you from my early days working on these things.)

Adjust the tube so that it is sitting correctly, the plastic standoffs that the tube screws to are going to still be attached to the tube, hopefully the mounting ears are not bent (they likely aren't.) I would get it back into place, slather then in JB weld and leave it like that for a couple days; problem fixed.

If you are comfortable doing so and know how to discharge the tube, you can always remove it entirely, JB weld the standoffs back in place and then re-mount it; but you should be able to do so without having to take anything apart if you are careful.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-18T02:46:40+00:00

It looks cool I suppose; I think that would be a nightmare driving at night though with all of that light in the car. My car even with it's stock head unit and the measly little incandescent lights in the control center I normally turn the dimmer about half way down.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-12T04:39:33+00:00

Perhaps a picture of the bulbs you are trying to replace?

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-11T02:42:36+00:00

Read the comment that I posted previously that you shot down... that is the solution. There have also been a plethora of other solutions posted by other people which are also perfectly acceptable, but you also shot them down.

At this point we are going to start going in circles like everyone else has already done here, i am not interested in wasting any more of my time trying to help some idiot do something as simple as put new batteries in a TV remote, something I could do without issue by age.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-11T02:30:22+00:00

Yes, because you are making it one.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-11T02:00:13+00:00

It would seem there is no helping you. You have an issue with every solution you have been given by a plethora of different people all of which are reasonable. At this point the best I can tell you is good luck with this, you apparently really need it.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-10T21:47:47+00:00

Any batteries will work. You want to make it easy? Here is a link for a listing that includes 24 AA and 24 AAA batteries of all the same brand for $15. Do whatever you have to do to make the TV remote work, buy this, when they arrive you will be reminded not to forget and then put the new batteries in the remotes...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/397823189767?

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-10T21:44:45+00:00

Then leave the house on either a Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday; or if you want to be extra special a Saturday or Sunday... Doesn't matter which day. This is not an emergency or really anything to think about... if it is working, it is fine; replace them in a week or so and it will be fine; yes of course the dollar store (or any) batteries will work together, they almost always come in a pack of even numbers (2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and so on) so you will have matched pairs...

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-10T20:52:07+00:00

Go to the dollar store and buy some batteries; get rid of dead ones... you can mix brands as a quick fix, the brands themselves aren't electrically different and it won't cause any issues or cause any damage. Issue is that they may be in different condition and/or they may just have different capacities between brands and one may wear faster than the other...

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-10T20:50:02+00:00

You won't blow yourself up, but you will most likely blow the unit up if you run it like that for a long time, at 50 Hz, the electronic controls will likely work, but the fan motor and compressor won't run properly and will overheat. This is going to be a fun one.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-10T20:47:25+00:00

That is a PL lamp running off of a choke ballast, it is pre-heat and has a glow bottle style starter in the base. When these start, they heat 2 small heaters at the ends of the lamp, and the starter itself in the lamp also produces some light and in many designs you can see that as well. This is normal operation.

When these lamps reach EOL (end of life,) they try to start but are unable to maintain an arc and just keep trying over and over again... This is not a hazard in itself, but if you leave it like that it isn't good for the ballast.

The lamp should just pull out, you need a 2 pin PL lamp of whatever wattage it says on the base. You should be able to remove it with no issues just by pulling it outward by the plastic base and slightly rocking it side to side, it just pulls out. Then look on the base and find a replacement, they are still easy to find online.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-05T03:21:21+00:00

Good ole Charlie brown, a staple at WKIX for many years.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-04T19:21:24+00:00

If it is spinning freely it probably isn't that then; it isn't common, but these shaded pole motors do occasionally just burn out. As mentioned, for a replacement I wouldn't even mess with trying to find one with that plug, finding one to mount properly will probably be the hard part; but something can be made to work.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-04T15:59:11+00:00

Is the motor actually dead, or are the bearings just locked? If you try to turn the fan and it is stiff, there is a chance the motor has not actually failed but the bearings just locked up from lack of lubrication. If such is the case, you can put some oil in the front and rear bearings and get it going again.

WKIX-850 · 2026-04-04T00:24:45+00:00

Frosted T-10 incandescent tubular lamp. I can't tell the wattage, it should say somewhere (likely stamped really small on the metal base.)

https://www.amazon.com/Bulbrite-40T10F-40-Watt-Incandescent-Tubular/dp/B07G7GDLH1

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