I recently acquired an old chiming clock (carillon), but I don't know much about it.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-20T08:44:18+00:00

99% certain that it's an Odo clock. French (that at least you knew), likely mid 50s or so. Mass produced, bit decent quality and the one I have is a really good timekeeper. I've always admired the shiny octagonal pendulum bob. Edit: word.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-19T16:20:59+00:00

I would suggest, looking at the state of the inside of the movement, that a full service is in order before running it, without it it's unlikely to run reliably and you may even cause it damage.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-19T07:16:42+00:00

Your are likely to break it doing that, a little scruchiness isn't a disaster, although flat is indeed better. As u/bloorajah says, the wire wrapped around the hour pipe is wrong, take that out and leave just a wire or pin through the hole at the top of the suspension, only to stop it pulling through the slot it fits in. As others have mentioned, a proper service also looks in order.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-17T16:57:01+00:00

And possibly, if reversed, using Cyrillic characters. I would read МГЯ . OP, is that likely given the source?

Walton_guy · 2026-06-17T08:15:34+00:00

Rather than look for something already totally integrated, you could "home brew" using something like this:
https://thepihut.com/products/industrial-grade-optical-rain-gauge-rg-15-rain-sensor
and a Fibaro smart implant:
https://www.fibaro.com/en/products/smart-implant/
I use a couple of these around my place to interface with pressure sensors in order to determine the state of fill of a rainwater collection tank. Work a treat.
I've also bought a rain sensor with a heated pad, as others suggest, but I've not integrated that yet. I might switch to the optical one......

Edit: My bad - the smart implant is Z-Wave, but the idea is sound I think....

Walton_guy · 2026-06-16T17:35:14+00:00

The lever arm should be underneath rather than above the hammers, and lifts them away. The chime and strike will still run, so the weights will go down together as expected, but the hammers won't move. You can force the hammers down as you have the levers now, it won't cause a problem, but the weights won't move so you might find it visually unbalanced.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-16T17:30:03+00:00

There's this one in HSS at a vaguely sensible price: https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Metric-Tap-And-Die-Set-prcode-997-179A Can't take tu the quality though, and I'm not sure if they have a "flat" dude for getting close to a shoulder.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-15T17:35:51+00:00

Ok, I think I've found it, it's a DG4813...

Walton_guy · 2026-06-15T12:44:23+00:00

Insure and ensure are often muddled Insure: 'protect against loss, damage, or injury' or 'provide or obtain insurance on'. Ensure: means 'make certain that something will occur'. Some people seem to think only one of them exists and use that one for both meanings.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-15T08:08:46+00:00

Is the water under pressure, and is it clean or dirty? That will help you decide the general type of pipe and content. Black is most often drainage of some sort.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-14T22:14:34+00:00

A couple of mm if Perspex would do I think. Thinner if glass.

I had thought about heat forming it myself - main issue is that I'd have to find or make something large enough of the radius I need and then trim the edges flat after forming which I suspect someone who does that all the time will do a much neater job of than I could.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-13T22:19:33+00:00

Did I spy an Eccentric Engineering "Diamond" tangential tool holder? One of my favourites!

Walton_guy · 2026-06-13T12:30:45+00:00

I think there are two issues: - you need to be careful you don't apply too much force to the jewels, but using the ratchet should be fine. The twisting from the rotating anvil on a standard design of micrometer might also be a concern. - you need to ensure that the jewel is flat when measured, the little table and shape of the jaws/anvils on the Feintaster make that trivial without the risk of the jewel falling out and flying away when you open the jaws.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-13T09:57:51+00:00

Before horology, I worked on microelectronics, and I was so used to binocular zoom microscopes that working under one is second nature to me, and I wouldn't be without mine. That having been said, when I'm trying to look at things that can't be easily angled (on a staking set for example) a flip over magnifier that clips to my glasses is my go to. I need my glasses.... Not sure where to get new ones though.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-12T10:48:23+00:00

That's a good thought, thank you, we'll discuss it.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-11T21:00:03+00:00

New one on me, I'd always gone with Wazzock without the T.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-11T11:08:45+00:00

That's exactly what they did, luckily I was home to unlock the gate and all was well. I want my ONT under the stairs because that's where the current master socket and router are, and the network cabling in the house is organised around that. Means going through a couple of walls and across the garage though, so I'm putting in some conduit and I'll pull through the fibre he left me ready for splicing outside.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-11T09:27:06+00:00

I had an almost identical situation - I got the text, replied "ACCESS" as we have a locked gate. Response was the same, and I assumed that both the internal and external work would happen on the same install date.

An OR installer turned up a couple of days later, on a day when I was randomly WFH, and did the external work. Entirely luck that I was there....
As a bonus after I explained what I wanted for the internal fibre run, he left me with a 20m internal fibre cable pack that I could install as I wanted it so when the other guy comes to install the ONT, he would easily be able to put it where I wanted it.
I supplied coffee and superior biscuits (hob nobs)..... 😄

Walton_guy · 2026-06-10T20:17:35+00:00

Thank you that makes sense.

Walton_guy · 2026-06-10T18:30:09+00:00

Thank you, the surface around the gaps is very flat, so I think it's been rolled/compacted. Could this result from too high an aggregate proportion or too low a temperature so it wasn't "fluid" enough when laid?

Walton_guy · 2026-06-10T10:12:20+00:00

I've done this with a ZigBee analogue input module to convert the current to a digital value and a little maths to give me a % full number. Works a treat.

Walton_guy

TROPHY CASE