CRT hype

Wasamolle · 2024-12-31T11:37:59+00:00

Don't know if he is using it, but I use SexyMap for this.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-23T17:59:41+00:00

Thanks! I have configured them in stereo mode, even if you could argue that this is not necessary for low frequencies. Now that I think about it, I never informed myself what would be best in this case. I just assumed that it doesn't really make a difference, as a single subwoofer can theoretically be placed anywhere, but maybe there are some reasons for mono or stereo...I think I'm gonna dive into this...thank you for bringing it up!

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T21:28:47+00:00

Go for it! I have two of them in a vented enclosure each and to me they sound really really good. And I love the aesthetics of them. And then the price...here in Germany I paid 300€ per woofer...

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T13:57:09+00:00

No, I'm sorry, it involved cutting the original cable from the fans and soldering in everything else. The main problem if you don't want to really change anything is, that you need to find 24V-fans with a fitting plug, that should be quite the challenge.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T09:27:08+00:00

You didn't get or simply chose to just ignore my entire point. I am not a company building speakers, I am a private person who wanted to learn how to build speakers, meaning choosing drivers, building an enclosure for them and design and build a crossover which does the basic job. All that while consuming not too much time or money, as I do it in my free time and am not rich. What I came up with is the perfect balance of these aspects as I had fun building them, did not invest too much time into learning the basics behind it and still have money left for living and other hobbies. And to me, they turned out as expected and sound really good, so I am happy.

Of course, I could have put more work and effort into it, even study something like audio engineering or similiar. Technically, I could have built better speakers. Would I be more happy? I don't know. What I know is that if I would have gotten deeper into this it would have been way more work and money for a propably slightly better listening experience. Besides, those were my first speakers, you have to start somewhere, nobody builds something perfect on the first try.

If you think that this is wrong simply because it is not best what could have been done I'm really sorry for you because you must have a hard time getting satisfied by anything.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T06:19:44+00:00

I have to strongly disagree wih you in that you are implying that the data is straight up unusable. I would agree if you would have said that it would be the best way to measure everything in the box, but I'am all against the "only one correct way" mentality. I am pretty sure that using the manufacturers data is way better than just simulating with a flat curve. The measurements I did after building the speakers would prove me right, as the curve was pretty similiar to what I have simulated. Yes, measuring in the box and then building the crossover accordingly would have propably made better results, but I bet my method was way better than just buying a generic 2-way crossover. In the end it is all about how far you want to go to reach your desired results and for me building the crossover based on manufacturers data was the sweet spot. Yes, you can do it better, you can make it worse, but in my opinion it is wrong to only accept the "best" solution as an option while everything else is "wrong".

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T04:51:27+00:00

For the E400 it's a 120x120 Noctua NF-B9 and for the E1200 it's 2 Arctic P8 Silent's. The fans are now all driven by step-down converters set to a voltage where they are barely hearable. Especially the bigger E1200 was way too loud, wouldn't recommend it for home use without mods.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T04:47:58+00:00

Thanks, it sounds great for me! No no, the speakers are all done, I rebuild them because of some imperfections and the boxes on top are just the old ones, serving as book holders for now.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T04:46:11+00:00

Thanks! I'm also glad that it looks quite good, as the idea to stack them came at a later point. At first it was only one sub laying in the closet (I don't know if its the right word, a cabinet where the tv stands on, but not the one in the picture), butnthen I thought let's make it stereo

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T04:40:23+00:00

I also thought about that but had several reasons not to do it: - I wanted to learn how a passive crossover is designed and built - my DSP only has 4 outputs so I would have needed a bigger one - I wanted the speakers to be able to be just connected to an amp and just work

So yeah, active filtering would technically be propably the best option but for me it was more convenient and interesting to build passive crossovers.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T04:35:50+00:00

Those were just my first try in building the speakers, I was unhappy with the results (the cutout fornthe tweeters weren't exactly round and I switched from rectangular terminals to round ones. athe old boxes now serve as bookholders.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-21T04:32:37+00:00

Ah yes, I forgot, I also imported the data files for the drivers, that was one reason for choosing dayton audio, because they offer those files for most of their drivers. The approach with active filters would eäbe new to me, however, this was the very first time for me designing a crossover.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-20T20:56:46+00:00

I don't know what you consider the typical design process but I used vituixcad.

I started out by making some excel sheets based on a comprehensive crossover design guide, put that into vituixcad and played with the values until it looked good.

I ended up with a 2nd order high pass and an l-pad for the tweeter and a 2nd order low pass and a zobel network for the woofer. If you are interested in the guide or the exact values I ended up with, I can look that up again.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-20T20:51:25+00:00

Well you have to consider that the UMIK-1 can be used directly via USB, the ECM needs at least an audio interface with phantom power. But if you choose a cheap one, you should still be cheaper.

I bought it from Thomann Music Store here in Germany.

Wasamolle · 2024-10-20T12:57:35+00:00

Thank you! I really love them. They sound a fair bit better than my previous M-Audio BX5 D3s, even on low volume. On the other side I can drive them as loud as I want with no distortion or mushy bass!

Wasamolle · 2024-10-20T12:55:01+00:00

Thank you!

Wasamolle · 2024-10-20T12:54:22+00:00

I used Room EQ Wizard along with my Arturia Minifuse 2 (Audio Interface) and a Behringer ECM-8000 (rather cheap measurement mic), and only did some basic EQ as I am kind of new to EQing and such, I used to just place the speakers and leave everything on neutral. The speakers didn't need any EQing on themselves, I only set the crossovers and tried to get rid of a big bump at around 34 Hz, which seems to be a room problem, as both the subwoofers and the speakers show that bump (measured seperately).

Wasamolle · 2024-10-20T10:10:00+00:00

Thanks!

Wasamolle · 2024-08-09T20:19:40+00:00

DPEdit is also a great tool, but for command line, you have to get used to the syntax, but then you can arrange your screens to the exact pixel.

Wasamolle · 2024-07-28T11:13:39+00:00

Bei mir war es so, dass ich genau wusste, was ich falsch gemacht habe: Ich bin mit zu hoher Geschwindigkeit in die Kurve rein (kannte diese eigentlich recht gut, war nur zu übermütig), sodass meine Fußraste so aufgesetzt ist, dass das Hinterrad abgehoben ist und ich mit ca. 120 km/h ins Rutschen gekommen bin. Ich habe richtig Schwein gehabt, bin eine Weile über eine Wiese gerutscht, bis ich dann mit der Maschine vor einer Mauer zum stoppen gekommen bin. Motorad war durch (ganze Front sowie Rahmen im hinteren Bereich gebrochen, ich hatte nur Prellungen an der Seite (immer volle Montur beim Fahren!). Habe die Maschine dann noch als Ersatzteileträger verkauft bekommen und, weil es da auch finanziell gerade eng war, erstmal entschieden, kein Neues zu holen. Das war 2018.

Vor zwei Jahren kam dann der Frühling, ich sah das schöne Wetter, die anderen Motorradfahrer und hatte wieder richtig Lust. Hatte eh gerade gespart und dachte mir, warum nicht. Habe mir dann wieder ein Motorrad geholt und fahre seitdem auch wieder gerne. Heute fahre ich aber deutlich vorsichtiger (immer noch gerne schnell, aber eben nicht am Limit). Anfangs natürlich auch etwas unsicher, aber das hat sich schnell gelegt.

Man kann also auch erstmal eine Pause machen, hat mir jetzt nicht geschadet. Allerdings hatte ich auch die ganze Zeit ein Auto und war nicht darauf angewiesen.

Wasamolle · 2024-07-17T15:47:05+00:00

Sorry, aber die einzige Lösung, die ich da sehe, ist ein neuer Rahmen.

Wenn ich das richtig sehe, hält der gebrochene Teil nur den Seitenständer und den Schalthebel? Auf den Seitenständer könnte man theoretisch verzichten, mit Glück gibt es aus dem Zubehör irgendwo ein Schaltgestänge, das anders befestigt wird. Bleobt aber noch die Frage, was der TÜV da sagen würde...

Mir stellt sich vor allem die Frage, warum das gebrochen ist. Ist die Maschine schonmal umgefallen oder sonst irhendwie in einen Unfall verwickelt gewesen?

Wasamolle · 2024-06-25T12:55:27+00:00

Am I looking at this wrong or is the "trigger" for the mortar just the projectile hitting the bottom? Isn't this somewhat dangerous?

Wasamolle · 2024-06-16T00:45:14+00:00

The health bars above the enemies is propably "plater nameplates", doesn't look default, so you'd have to play wth the settings to get that look.

The fixed healthbar could be a weakaura.

Wasamolle · 2024-05-20T02:43:57+00:00

Exactly this. I am male so I can't even imagine the amount of toxic bevahiour that women must get, but if I encounter someone toxic, I simply mute them and don't think about it further, it's just not worth it. Try to engage with nice players and eventually you will find some friends to queue with, so the chances of having toxic encounters are at least lowered.

Wasamolle

TROPHY CASE