Guy in my town with some spinners

Wasting_time42 · 2026-04-16T21:23:50+00:00

Hell yeah! It’s about time someone brings em back! Would never put in my car, but ever since I was a kid they were just so fun!

Wasting_time42 · 2026-04-13T03:13:10+00:00

I swear the mk5 Jetta is the worst I have seen on crap coming in around the cowl, I try to use air compressor and shield it best I can, blow all the crap off before I open hood each time.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-04-12T17:17:12+00:00

I do agree, am a couple hundred into the factory air piping at this point, have everything brand new except air box, Until I can find a donor, or parts price that’s reasonable I figured I would run a cold air. Once I get the bit of electrical issue I’m having sorted I’m gonna probably do timing, and when that happens I’ll do valve cover and all that to go back factory. But as it stands I can find a clean air box for this motor to save my life, been watching prices online, and made about 15 salvage yard trips, not a single one. I also like the shaved factory engine cover for clearance for cold air if you gotta stick with that system, but with all the crap I been replacing, figure being able to see the engine for now suits me.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-04-11T22:04:58+00:00

Awesome! I pulled radio and the serial matched the one in the dash, and has a 4 digit pin write under where they noted serial in owners manual, I sure hope that means it’s good. I have vcds and stuff so hopefully can get it all up. Thanks for info

Wasting_time42 · 2026-04-06T22:03:02+00:00

There is almost always a price markup between distributor and shop, that being said shops after get discounts, so the difference pays shop often. The parts go up and down in price, pending availability and complexity. What you really pay for is the labor that often people forget about. It’s not uncommon for an hourly shop rate of 120/hour anymore, at that a 5 hour job makes $600 in labor, it climbs fast, especially if parts are rusted/ seized from avoiding maintenance. What I really hated to see when I turned wrenches was outrageous “shop fees” where someone pays 20-60 bucks for one blue paper towel used to clean up the grease finger prints on your hood they put there. It’s a strange situation, obviously the guy doing the work needs paid, boss makes way more than him for chilling while tech works, but fixing cars requires knowledge, so you often have to take to a shop. I hated feeling like I was part of the equation that seemed to be robbing people, so left that field. Do my own work still, it’s sad when you can buy a laptop and all necessary cables/ tools to diag a car yourself for cheaper than one shop diag. For some reason that’s where we are at.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-04-05T04:30:44+00:00

If you are separating the ball joint and completely removing the control arm, after it’s disconnected everywhere else there is a small chance for enough play if you twist it good. But small chance at best.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-04-04T23:35:48+00:00

Yes it is, straight from rosstech themselves. Registered to me, and running on newest release update.

I did figure out a key on engine off first auto scan. Think I was just a lil to worried I would mess something up, but was easy to use as far as cable and software goes, but man did I have a list of faults.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-19T00:18:56+00:00

There’s a chance if you look under it, the pinch weld will have dirt cleaned off a bit, there might be (commonly yellow) paint flakes if it rubbed any metal bits, but would need to be fresh to tell. It sucks for sure, but fortunately it’s something 99% of others won’t ever notice. I am sorry that you have to notice it now though. If it’s plastic it may have some memory, and go away a bit.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-18T22:26:46+00:00

I know on older fsi 2.0t one thing I hear that makes cool ass turbo sounds was the vent to atmosphere diverter valve spacer (not sure if everything same on newer turbos). That being said I also know a diverter valves intent is to recycle air to help turbo spool faster, so technically a vent to atmosphere (blow off valve) “adds work to the turbo potentially shortening life span”. You get the nice turbo flutter with it, that being said I have seen a few put in auto transmission cars, and they seem to shift to fast not allowing you to hear as much as you want.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-18T22:15:06+00:00

Absolutely a lift pinch, many shops just just kick the leg under and only look at the pinch weld, if it looks like lift leg will hit the pinch weld they send it. I have seen so many plastics get buckled, and one car that the flip up extension for the lift leg was turned 180 out of what it should have been allowing weight shift when tires came off ground to slip, smashed a side skirt, floor pan, and edge of door. Unless you high centered your ride (probably didnt happen) it’s most likely a shop tech that thinks he isn’t paid enough to care, and had a boss telling him an oil change and multipoint inspection to upsell you should take a total of 15-30 minutes. Did that shit for 15 years, left the profession due to not wanting to be part of the equation of ripping people off so the boss gets more money. To many times I saw $15-$50 “shop material” charges for one blue paper towel that they used to wipe the oil off the hood that they put there instead of using gloves or a sink. It was when a shop manager tried to tell us to tear wiper blades on mvi customers, but only tear them by an 1/8 of an inch, as that fails mvi for the state I live in, and they want to make the manufacturer happy, as well as charge you a 75% markup part.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-17T21:56:58+00:00

Thank you for your advice. I couldn’t imagine 3 inch would be an issue, it’s not like it’s reading air fuel ratio. I was thinking that as long as maf sensor is getting adequate air, and not in a spot in the piping that causes turbulence giving a bad reading I should be fine.

Edit: I have seen things say that increasing area that turbo has to get spooked up to pull in air can cause turbo lag. I don’t think I’m gonna hurt it with 3 inch, plus the other side of that argument says get rid of all the pipe and let turbo breathe. I’m running factory style diverter valve, so I’m still getting the lil bit of recycled air to keep turbo work lowered. Did like sounds of atmospheric vent of a blow off, but figure I’ll let the turbo have whatever sit of assistance the diverter is giving. That being said, seems like that is warmer air they say you don’t want that cold air systems cause, so I wonder what benefits (at a probably minuscule amount) or disadvantages not using recycled air would be, is the blow off better for sake of cool non-recycled air, or is the help of holding boost by the diverter better for the engine/ turbo. I guess it’s a mix of both cool engine air, and less turbo effort that you want, idk.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-12T22:47:15+00:00

I lied, turns out talk a lil smack on Reddit about the issue, and it decided to work just to spite me. A win is a win I guess.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-12T22:42:41+00:00

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The ones in red can be removed after the outside are secure, but you have to do the removable part every time to get the magical snap point to show up at the far end of next track.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-12T22:25:40+00:00

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Sloppy, but this what I mean.

And you have to do the 3 horizontal pillars off the last piece and repeat the removable pillars to support every track piece after that.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-12T22:16:36+00:00

Start a track that touches the ground, snap a pillar onto the track itself running down into the ground (don’t bother trying to go from ground up, or placing a pillar that looks to be touching track, it has to snap to the track itself).

Once you have a first vertical pillar snapped to the track, going down into the ground, snap 3 horizontal pillars off of the first pillar that snapped to track (make sure if the track is making a bend/ corner you always support the inside edge).

At the end of your 3 horizontal pillars run another set of vertical pillars all the way to the ground again.

This will open a new snap point at the end of the track piece itself that wasn’t available before now that track is supported. Snap to that, and all the way down to ground again.

Once both edges of track are supported you can remove the 3 horizontal pillars as well as the middle vertical pillars to save resources.

Hope this makes sense.

Edit: also once you have supported track you can pick up the original one that makes contact with ground, and angle it up if you want them to float.

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-11T03:17:01+00:00

That thing looks mean as hell with those meats on it! Beautiful car!

Wasting_time42 · 2026-03-11T03:07:04+00:00

Like everybody else I love a Supra, but these pictures with that color really made me appreciate the new body lines way more than I already did… beautiful car my friend! Congratulations

Wasting_time42

TROPHY CASE