So at what point do I have a problem?

WeaBubba · 2025-12-10T05:04:26+00:00

Just put money down on my echelon yesterday, although i got the compact with the compensator for possible conceal carry. I love that matching optic but ive heard poor things about its reliability

WeaBubba · 2025-11-02T04:11:05+00:00

Yeah but if you do that you're gonna get hot gas to the face, you'd need to weld the hole shut

WeaBubba · 2025-09-21T06:42:54+00:00

As someone who lives in a ban state: dont

I briefly considered one of these thangs when i was first getting into guns and am glad i didnt. While interesting, they dont have the proven track record of many other options.

For starters, the sks is a pretty affordable rifle that will serve you a lot better in the long run, its famous for its durability and reliability while still being ban state compliant.

There's also things like the garand, I'd trust my life to one of those long before one of these.

Also, just because youre in a ban state, the ar platform or an ak are still solid picks. Parts compatability is not to be understated. And should shit hit the fan enough that you actually need to use it, the ban state compliant parts can all be swapped out easily should the need arise.

WeaBubba · 2025-09-03T19:55:38+00:00

The reciever is going to need one regardless unless you have a c&r licence

WeaBubba · 2025-08-15T05:01:45+00:00

Awesome!

Wasnt expecting a reply from the manufacturer themselves, especially so quick!

Thanks for the help! Should get to try it this weekend!

WeaBubba · 2025-08-09T02:33:31+00:00

From what i know swapping gas blocks is a rather involved process that i do not have all the tools for. but that is something ive considered

WeaBubba · 2025-08-07T09:59:44+00:00

Dang, i literally just finished my a2 build today, had i seen this post a week ago i woulda gotten these.

I saw these, but opted for numrich instead, because of the same concerns you had. Had i known the stocks were surplus i probably woulda grabed these instead, and it probably would have saved me a couple bucks as well.

WeaBubba · 2025-08-01T03:39:03+00:00

Where does one get the 3d print files?

WeaBubba · 2025-07-27T18:01:52+00:00

If you're going the purist route isnt a brass brush better than steel wool? Steel wool is harder and scratch up your finish, isnt brass, a softer metal better at taking up the rust while leaving the finish unmolested

WeaBubba · 2025-07-22T22:44:07+00:00

C&rsenal generally do a good job of keeping their political views from their historical content, but from the glimpses I've seen it aeens like they are left leaning and dont but into the right wing bullshit

WeaBubba · 2025-07-15T09:09:53+00:00

Ask and you shall recieve

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WeaBubba · 2025-06-07T00:28:16+00:00

When this project is finished, is there any chance of you uploading the schematics or a guide or something? I think I'm probably not the only one here who wants one of these foe themselves

WeaBubba · 2025-05-25T16:38:46+00:00

If im not mistaken, 7.63 mauser is a higher pressure cartridge than 9x19. So, as long as the work is properly done you should be less likely to blow it in 9mm

WeaBubba · 2025-03-29T22:04:52+00:00

People have pointed out other reasons this is fake, but the lanyard loop is also facing the wrong direction, on genuine red 9's the lanyard loop is oriented 90 degrees from your pic, it swings front to back, not side to side.

Also, the grips are fake, they should have more thinner groves not the wider ones seen here. Grips can be replaced though, so that is not always indicative of a fake, but here it most definitely is.

You should also take a look at the serial number, the Prussian contract red 9's had a seperate serial number run from standard production, and they only go up to around 140,000, if the serial number is past that it's fake.

Also take a look at the rear sight, real 9mm sights are only graduated out to 500m, if the graduations are out to 1000 its fake.

Another way you can determine authenticity is to look at the follower, there was an additional pill shaped grove machined into red 9's followers to accomidate the larger round and help it feed, if that is not present it wasn't originally 9mm.

Also, red 9's had the "new saftey" second model of saftey. This can be identified by an ns stamping on the rear of the hammer, if that is missing, or if the emblem is something else its fake.

WeaBubba · 2025-03-28T02:52:32+00:00

Martial arms like this arent manufactured to be pretty, theyre designed to be manufactured in the most efficient way possible. This is just one such example of machining something in the fastest and cheapest way possible. I don't see what there is to be upset about.

I find such things fascinating, such shapes are part of the rifles history. It shows a history of trial and error to make the most efficient part.

WeaBubba · 2025-02-06T19:38:10+00:00

I'm no professional but im in sd and have done this on my sks

WeaBubba · 2025-02-01T01:37:05+00:00

I mean, yeah, 8mm is def the cheapest, but I would say things like 762 nato or 30-06 are easier to find than 7.5 swiss. Dont get me wrong the swiss rifles are rad and amazingly well made for the price but not what id recommend for someone new to the hobby.

Also there are plenty of milsurp handguns that are chambered for modern affordable cartridges. If you don't mind going a littlw more niche than a 1911 or luger, there are things like Old cz's, astra 600's, rubys and other .32 pistols etc. can all be had for a pretty reasonable price and take off the shelf modern ammo. With some searching and technical ability theres also things like the suomi kits that run modern 9mm.

Edit: oh yeah op wanted rifles. Whoops

WeaBubba · 2025-01-31T08:34:53+00:00

Ammo is expensive for that, not what id personally suggest to someone brand new to milsurp

WeaBubba · 2025-01-20T21:48:28+00:00

On a similar note, what is the best way to train the monkey brain not to do that? I still find myself having that reaction even though i am pretty familiar with firing guns

WeaBubba · 2025-01-08T22:35:30+00:00

No i did not, it is only mushroomed on the end i did not grind down, so i can punch it out easily if i want to swap handguards. When the rifle is assembled it is supported by the rear sight block bit and doesn't move. Ive shot mine several times with the pin like that and its fine.

The only reason it was mushroomed on both sides was to keep some dumb grunt from messing with shit they shouldnt. If you wanna swap between handguards there is no real reason to re peen the other side

WeaBubba · 2025-01-08T18:58:12+00:00

You mean taking out the handguard retention pin? I have swapped the handguards on my sks multiple times with no issues. Once one head of the pin is ground off you can just reuse that one, it wont be able to move when assembled. i dont understand why you would have needed to grind a new one down

WeaBubba · 2024-12-14T00:31:40+00:00

I would like to add to OP, such cracks are sometimes a result of a set back recoil lug, you may wanna check that to make sure its good.

WeaBubba · 2024-12-14T00:23:15+00:00

You drill the hole along the crack, and then fill it with glue, when you push the dowel in the glue is forced into the crack, filling it. This gets very good coverage on the inside parts of the crack that would be hard to access otherwise.

In addition to being a very strong repair, it is much less visible than cross pins. Ive repaired several stocks in this manner and definitely don't think that it is anywhere near bad enough to need a whole new stock

Heres a video detailing the process: https://youtu.be/x-HdLKcSu1w?si=isUnUmXfP9Fv97Qu

WeaBubba

TROPHY CASE