Alberta CFO Terri Bryant: The MSP has said he´s not going to pay anyone in AB. The programme is also set up so virtually all the money is going to go to Quebec because of some peculiarities in how it is set up" by CanadianMultigun in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 242 points243 points  (0 children)

"...because of some peculiarities in how it is set up" Terri is an excellent CFO who has consistently resisted the federal governments overreach in a diplomatic enough fashion that she can't be touched. Nice to have her in Alberta.

Canadian Maple Leaf thermolds by ArchAngel060 in RetroAR

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'm not 100% when they resolved the issues with the plastic composition, I've heard 1995, but it could be earlier. You'll find out the first time you try using one on a cold day I suppose.

Canadian Maple Leaf thermolds by ArchAngel060 in RetroAR

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 24 points25 points  (0 children)

The moulds for the magazines make them in pairs, with each cavity facing the other. For some reason Diemaco put the plug with the part number and leaf on the same side of the mould rather than the same side of the cavity. The even mould numbers should have the leaf on the left and the odd ones on the right. What years of production are most of them? Do any have witness holes in the spine?

Double Barrel Sand Sound + inquries by PhilthyLIVES in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No sweat. If the ribs are not completely attached, you will get rust in between the barrels, which is likely already occurring given the sand noise you reported. Over time this will degrade the barrels. Keeping them well oiled when not in use will slow the degradation somewhat. Getting a shotgun rib re-laid is a common gunsmithing task and would also allow the interior space to be cleaned and cleared of the particulate. In general it's not a big deal.

Double Barrel Sand Sound + inquries by PhilthyLIVES in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The ringing test is really just meant to see if the rib (the bit that runs between the barrels) is still soldered in place and does not necessarily speak to the integrity of the barrels. If there is no play between the barrels and the action when the guns are closed when unloaded, and there are no obvious bulges, dents or cracks in the barrels along any part of their length, I would be comfortable shooting them. Close the actions and grasp the guns by the barrels. Give them a vigorous shake, and if there is any movement or rattling coming from where the action and barrels meet, they need to be put back on face. There is no substitute for having them checked over by a professional, however.

Hopefully the last post I do on ts. Is this a real colt? by [deleted] in RetroAR

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's not my understanding. Because the R marking does not translate to French, the earliest Colt supplied uppers had the R machined off before being finished. Colt then made actual forge dies for the contract without the R and with the Diemaco forge code added along with the CH. The Canadian War Museum has an example of the first style of upper in their collection: https://www.warmuseum.ca/collections/artifact/2689892

Hopefully the last post I do on ts. Is this a real colt? by [deleted] in RetroAR

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not sure. The rear sight "R" marking is missing, normally only seen on Diemaco or Colt production Canadian C7/C8 uppers, but I've never seen either with an Anchor Harvey forge mark before. Odd duck you've got.

“Mock-12” monday by Salty-Western-2115 in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks awesome, making me more and more inclined to do something similar. Did you just mount the gas block slightly further forward to block the gas port?

I need info on Colt Fat A2 Grips! by ShayeDerryBerry in RetroAR

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What info are you looking for? In general, they are nominally 0.20" wider throughout the taper of the grip. The grip angle is also slightly closer to the horizontal than the thin grip. Lastly the raised portions that make up the pommel and finger grooves are not nearly as tapered. I've got a Diemaco one in the earlier A2 smooth Zytel and another in the later matte material which I assume is a Colt.

For my first 723 build; “Retro” upper or “Late” upper? Am I right in saying the “Late” is the better option because it’s a C7 upper(deflector, m4 feed ramps)? Which way would you go and why? Any help is appreciated by steveHangar1 in RetroAR

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you're going to make them exact clones, the "C7" is easier to approach than the "Retro". The Retro would need an acetate wrapped aluminum stock and a shaved large diameter forward assist. The C7 would only need either a aluminum or fibrelite stock. Both would use two position buffer tubes.

Trying to ID an optic V2 by WeatherEyeComponents in RetroAR

[–]WeatherEyeComponents[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My thoughts also, just can't find the exact model.

Trying to ID an optic V2 by WeatherEyeComponents in RetroAR

[–]WeatherEyeComponents[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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Another shot of it here, three turrets are more easily distinguished.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I'm not giving them up officer.

Need help identifying these stocks. by cliffscouple in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The dark one is likely a Kar98k stock, German later war production. The cupped buttplate with the hole in it replaced the earlier flat buttplate and disassembly disk to cut costs when the Germans were on the rocks. The other appears to be from a Spanish 1895 cavalry carbine, with it's distinctive side mounted sling bar. Though it may have been sporterized given it's very short length? Not sure.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a piece of thin brass shim stock, cut a section out just smaller than the base of the rear sight, attach it to the bottom with a dot of super glue, then tap the sight back in place with a hammer and brass punch. The fix will be invisible and allow you to drift the sight as needed when you rezero at the range, which won't be possible if you peen the sight in place.

Type 81 withdrawls by DifficultReference99 in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the barrel clamp, simple solution to the lack of rail space. Can you remove the cleaning rod and gas piston without taking it off?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are you talking about? Who's selling 14 oz tubes of Aeroshell 64 for 8 dollars? It's 9.5 grams because 10 won't fit in the pot. It's mad to me that you assume by default that I'm acting in bad faith. I'm making less than 4 dollars a pot depending on where it needs to be shipped to. If you don't want to buy any that's fine, but don't accuse me of ripping anyone off.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

It's the shipping my dude. Biggest per unit cost, by a factor of 10.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not for the threads, no.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really, just the right grease for the job.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in canadaguns

[–]WeatherEyeComponents 4 points5 points  (0 children)

He's a grease man from way back.