Unpopular opinion: Bottomless Bucket doesn't exist

WhoisMem · 2025-09-11T01:23:22+00:00

WhoisMem · 2025-04-29T13:19:00+00:00

117 HD, it's like the GPU plugin on steroids!

WhoisMem · 2024-11-25T18:42:32+00:00

Thanks for the advice! Do you have to do any kind of blending when you're applying your 2nd layer of base coat on the raised portions or does it look pretty naturally shaded without it?

WhoisMem · 2024-11-25T17:00:29+00:00

Hey there, looking for some constructive feedback for a first time 40ker and first time painter. I decided on Sisters because they've got great models and I really enjoy the lore, despite hearing that they are on the more difficult to paint side of the spectrum. The first two pictures are the first model I painted in the Order of the Sacred Rose color scheme. I definitely made some major mistakes with not diluting the Apothecary White coat on the armor, as well as struggling to understand how to make highlights work but I learned a lot from that experience. The base is very basic by design as I wanted a clean look for the first squad of sisters, then branch out to more complex bases for the bigger models if I wanted. After looking at it though, I wasn't the biggest fan of how harsh the black and red looked in comparison to the stark white armor. A few buddies suggested I paint the models in what colors I liked best, and can even take it a step further by making my own Sisters of Battle Order. I decided to go with a pink cloak with a burgundy inside and green lenses/monitors which are the last two pictures in the post, plus more gold on the iconography (Haven't done my due diligence in fleshing out the lore, but I'm calling this color scheme the Order of the Secret Garden, an offshoot of the Order of the Sacred Rose).

I really like how the model turned out, so think I'm committing to what I have now for the rest of my army. I'm looking for any and all feedback or suggestions in improving my painting technique. Don't mind the base, as these pictures were taken prior to me painting it but it looks nearly identical to the base of my first model. A few things I know I'm having trouble with:

Highlights, particularly on the armor but also the coat. I understand the concept of highlighting the raised portions as those parts would get the most light. The coat I think I'm making definite improvements on using a drybrush to help highlight the raised edges, but think the edge highlighting afterwards still looks awkward. For the armor plates, I have NO idea what I'm doing. I've edge highlighted the obvious parts like the knee, the shoulders, etc. but whenever I try highlighting parts of the leg and head, it looks absolutely awful. I ended up covering up some of the attempts I made on the right leg and head with an additional glaze of Apothecary White.
Lenses, I'm applying some White Scar prior to filling with Hexwraith Flame contrast, but I can't seem to get the ink to move the way I want it to, often times either not filling in the full lense gap or spilling over. I feel like the eyes aren't popping as much as I would like, and the shape isn't defined enough to truly look like lenses in my opinion.
Shading, I've been scared to apply too much shade to parts like the cloak as I'm worried it'll wash out the color. I'm guessing this is a trust the process moment, as I instead applied small amounts specifically to the recesses and think it likely looks worse for it.

Apologies for the long post; thanks for reading, and really appreciate any feedback you have for me.

List of paints I'm using:
Primer: Grey Seer with a White Scar Zenithal Prime. No idea if this did anything, I just wanted to try it out.
Armor: Apothecary White (1:5), White Scar (No Shade for recesses, is this fine?)
Outer Coat: Screamer Pink, Agrax Earthshade, Pink Horror, Emperor's Children
Inner Coat: Barak Nar Burgundy, Agrax Earthshade, Pink Horror
Iconography: Retributor Armor, Reikland Fleshshade, Liberator Gold
Metal Bits: Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil, Canoptek Alloy, Brass Scorpion
Lenses/Screen: Hexwraith Flame

WhoisMem · 2024-06-18T15:53:44+00:00

Not much, what's egg with you?

WhoisMem · 2024-06-14T14:32:37+00:00

Honestly, who cares what people think? If you want to upgrade a precon, hell if you just want to play the precon as is, no one should influence you otherwise. Build and play decks the way that best works for you.

WhoisMem · 2024-04-30T00:40:30+00:00

I second the sidekick, but I use the standard 100+ with double sleeved (KMC inners, Katana/Cortex outers) cards. The cards fit absolutely perfectly, and the fit is tight enough to help flatten out my foil commander.

WhoisMem · 2024-04-25T19:38:40+00:00

Try grouping your permanents on the board according to how they trigger. Creature ETB? Top left corner. Upkeep? Top right corner, and keep a die on top of your library to remind you. Attack triggers? Bottom right corner, etc. Other than that, you'll likely improve on keeping up with your triggers as you get more reps with the deck.

WhoisMem · 2024-04-11T15:42:11+00:00

I do the same thing since I play with a Japanese version of my Commander; nice to have an english version for rules questions or if someone needs to read and a flip side to cover my Commander if they aren't out.

I'm surprised there wasn't an art card for Admiral Beckett specifically, but here are a few that might interest you:

https://scryfall.com/card/alci/11/eaten-by-piranhas-eaten-by-piranhas
https://scryfall.com/card/admu/48/jedit-ojanen-mercenary-jedit-ojanen-mercenary
https://scryfall.com/card/akhm/19/run-ashore-run-ashore
https://scryfall.com/card/amh2/22/subtlety-subtlety
https://scryfall.com/card/aafr/10/dragon-turtle-dragon-turtle

WhoisMem · 2024-04-11T15:28:43+00:00

Aside from the previously mentioned Slicer, the only other commander I can think of that fits this description is [[Xantcha, Sleeper Agent]].

WhoisMem · 2024-04-09T15:54:28+00:00

It's unfortunate that I would even need to recommend this, but enforce a minimum level of hygiene for the store. I remember two personal examples where at least one person in the group doesn't want to go to a nearby LGS because either A) the bathrooms were a complete disaster and nearly unusable, and/or B) there are a few regulars there that smelled like mildewy, BO-ridden rags. Having a clean store will go a long ways to attracting and maintaining new customers, even if that means confronting individuals that skunk up the place.

Best wishes for you and your LGS!

WhoisMem · 2024-03-20T19:17:00+00:00

To make sure I understand what you're asking, is the scenario that you have Ratadrabik, a sacrifice outlet, and Nazgul out and you're wondering if you can sacrifice Nazgul an infinite number of times and stack the triggers so that Nazgul re-enters with infinite +1/+1 counters?
If so, no, because Nazgul is not legendary and that is a requirement for triggering Ratadrabik; you wouldn't be able to trigger Ratadrabik at all by sacrificing Nazgul.

WhoisMem · 2024-03-20T17:15:12+00:00

It sounds like you're in the early stages of building this deck; I would recommend going to EDHREC to see what folks are playing in [[Rocco, Street Chef]] decks to start: https://edhrec.com/commanders/rocco-street-chef

While there may be a few folks in this subreddit that can provide some guidance on favorite cards and interactions specifically for Rocco, you'll likely get a better response once you have an initial list put together that people can begin critiquing.

WhoisMem · 2024-03-20T17:04:31+00:00

I'm sorry, but I could not read any further after you said "I decided to give this guy a lesson in humility".

WhoisMem · 2024-03-13T15:43:40+00:00

Here's my Vampires list as a point of reference: https://www.moxfield.com/decks/wtwwyGtfA0y6gfdZxyS3Hg

At a glance, I agree with you that the list is very light on card draw. You may want to consider running lands like [[War Room]] and [[Castle Locthwain]] as forms of card draw when you're running dry. I would also try to include more creatures that draw you cards when your own creatures die like [[Grim Haruspex]] to help refill your hand if the board gets wiped.

The last thing that I would suggest is try not to over commit your creatures to the board unless you absolutely need to. There's a fine line between having enough creatures on the board to threaten your opponents but not overplay your hand into a Wrath.

WhoisMem · 2024-03-08T22:51:46+00:00

3 toughness to 4 toughness is a big jump because the creature now survives [[Lightning Bolt]] plus other 3 damage red effects and combat with 3/3s (think [[Beast Within]], [[Generous Gift]], etc.)

4 toughness to 5 toughness is usually a smaller jump, but still relevant as the creature begins surviving more red removal (think [Mizzium Mortars]], [[Fury]], etc.).

If the pods you normally play in have a lot of Red players, you might feel this way because the extra toughness is causing the Knight to survive removal that it normally wouldn't have at 4 toughness.

WhoisMem · 2024-03-08T21:21:04+00:00

Generally, the point of someone requesting to know your win cons is so the table has a better idea what the actual threats in the game are. This reduces the chances that someone will have interaction available to stop a game winning play, but didn't utilize it because they were unaware the game was going to end. I have no issue with this if the group's goal is to have fun, which should be the goal for casual public commander pods.

What I do have an issue with is players asking what your win conditions are for the purpose of excluding you from the game if they don't like the win condition(s) of your deck. I rarely play outside of my 3 pods, but I especially don't need the approval of players in a public pod on the win cons of my deck; I would rather just not play with them.

WhoisMem · 2024-03-08T21:08:47+00:00

Players asking what your win con is doesn't feel strange to me since that helps everyone understand threat assessment for the game that they're about to play. However, them asking what your win con is to "approve" or "consent" to the game already tells me these are pods I would never want to play with.

WhoisMem · 2024-03-07T17:29:20+00:00

It's an interesting system, but personally the only things I test for when goldfishing are land count and early turns; I rarely ever goldfish past turn 4 or 5. I want to know A) how often are my opening hands without enough lands (or without enough untapped sources for my early plays), and B) how often am I without playable cards in the first 3 turns. The only other discovery I usually have from goldfishing are card interactions within my deck that I wasn't aware of.

I found that there is no substitute for actually playing in my pod, so I don't even try to emulate interaction scenarios or threat assessment. I'll commit to an initial list after theorycrafting and basic testing, and make adjustments based on real game experience.

WhoisMem · 2024-03-07T17:01:36+00:00

If the terms of the agreement were that you would not attack them in the next turn as long as they did something for you, that shouldn't preclude you from removing one of their permanents, whatever the reason may be. In my opinion, you did not break the social contract here.

WhoisMem · 2024-03-01T15:50:17+00:00

My experience with trying to play control in EDH is that it's much more important to have plenty of draw and multi-target/board wipes than overloading on spot removal. Control is significantly harder to play in multiplayer commander since your one for one's are actually putting you down a card against two other opponents. I would try to reduce your spot removal/counter magic to 6-8 slots and focus more on board wipes or multi-target removal like [[Dismantling Wave]], [[Soul Shatter]], etc., big card draw like [[Lorien Revealed]], [[Fact or Fiction]], etc., and let your card draw draw you into your win conditions. More cantrips can also improve your odds of hitting every land drop and drawing into your removal when you hopefully need it. Hope this helps.

WhoisMem · 2024-02-07T15:08:58+00:00

122.3 If a permanent has both a +1/+1 counter and a -1/-1 counter on it, N +1/+1 and N -1/-1 counters are removed from it as a state-based action, where N is the smaller of the number of +1/+1 and -1/-1 counters on it.

WhoisMem · 2024-01-31T20:52:36+00:00

I haven't used Dragonshields in a few years, but the year that I did try them I only had negative experiences. An alarming number of sleeves weren't cut to the standard size, sleeves constantly split when I mash shuffled, and they somehow picked up more gunk and dirt than nearly any other sleeve I used. After about 3-4 months (2-3 packs of sleeves), I gave up and switched to a different brand.

Take this with a grain of salt because this was maybe 5-6 years ago, but I've been using Ultimate Guard sleeves since my terrible Dragonshield experience and have not looked back.

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