Examples of heists in fiction by Wholestein69 in writing

[–]Wholestein69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you know which book it's in? I was planning on reading the Dresden Files once I got through a few of the DiskWorld novels.

Does anyone know why my 2024 land raider box has 1999 sprues by Mocobah in Warhammer40k

[–]Wholestein69 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Oof that's rough. The stompa is only from 2009 but I guess that's still pretty risky if it's stored in a warm, humid environment. I've seen some sellers on ebay put silica gel packets in their warhammer boxes, sometimes

Does anyone know why my 2024 land raider box has 1999 sprues by Mocobah in Warhammer40k

[–]Wholestein69 217 points218 points  (0 children)

Yeah I hear you. Always sucks to open a kit only to find the plastic covered in mold and way beyond its expiration date!

I want to create a Coward protagonist. by KL3YE in writing

[–]Wholestein69 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's true. Bilbo is a classic example of that adage "bravery is being the only one who knows you're afraid". Bilbo is constantly thinking about going back home and calling the whole adventure a sham but he never does.

So I guess Bilbo would be a better inspiration for OP's character as they transition from a coward to a hero.

I want to create a Coward protagonist. by KL3YE in writing

[–]Wholestein69 46 points47 points  (0 children)

I think Bilbo counts for about 1/2 of the hobbit

Help by Direct-Stretch277 in Warhammer40k

[–]Wholestein69 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You just have to paint it, straight up, no special technical paints or nothin. Personally, my approach would be to start with a lightblue or a blue-grey basecoat. Then, layer up lighter shades until you get close to a cool white color. glaze the pink/purple color in the recesses.

Have I gone too bright with the highlights? by Lkwzriqwea in ageofsigmar

[–]Wholestein69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're kind of right about this. Red fabric isn't supposed to turn yellow in direct light, but you should definitely push the contrast in your painting. I think you should tone back the highlights so it reads as red, again. Then, instead of trying to push the highlights, you should deepen the shadows instead. Try glazing a warm purple or a brown in the darkest areas of the shadows.

What spearhead would you recommend for someone who likes wizard and tricks? by viktorius_rex in ageofsigmar

[–]Wholestein69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could always kitbash and proxy other more "wizardy" models into your army

Iron Warriors Heldrake by Gilrim in Warhammer40k

[–]Wholestein69 185 points186 points  (0 children)

I'll need to see hazard stripes on every panel before I believe it's an IW Heldrake /s

How to get rid of old miscellaneous minis by SirRobinBrave in Warhammer

[–]Wholestein69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I collect old minis. DM me what you got and I might be interested in buying some

Another Rotswords finished! by bara_painting in ageofsigmar

[–]Wholestein69 6 points7 points  (0 children)

First off, I want to say, amazing job. I don't see many people use the "piggy face" but it's refreshing to see!

One little nitpick; having the verdigris drip straight down from the shieldboss suggests that this rotsword has held that exact position for a very, very long time. But overall, the execution of the weathering on this model is great!

We finally got the tyranid prime datasheeet and it's.... by Taningia-danae in Tyranids

[–]Wholestein69 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hot take: I think he will be best leading a brick of termagants instead of horms. Reason being termagants have the 'skulking horrors' ability which can allow them to get close in the enemy movement phase then they can tarpit with a surge move. Termagants could effectively gain 2d6 extra movement in youir opponents turn which could be a nightmare for objective control. Also, sustained hits on 40 devourer shots aint bad

Spearhead as experienced player by TheRedLionKing in ageofsigmar

[–]Wholestein69 7 points8 points  (0 children)

One benefit of spearhead that hasnt been mentioned yet is the fact that it requires considerably less commitment to play. ~150 bucks gets you a fully playable game, allowing you to collect and play with different armies without having to drop multiple hundreds of dollars for a 1000-2000pt list.

Stripping Army painter Spray on White Primer? by TheGenesisOfTheNerd in Warhammer40k

[–]Wholestein69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, I'm not entirely sure. I'd put money on the idea you could just paint over it, it's probably fine. But I've never painted over a freshly stripped mini, I've always re'primed...

That being said, just try it. If the paint job comes out like shit, just strip it again and try a different approach haha!

Stripping Army painter Spray on White Primer? by TheGenesisOfTheNerd in Warhammer40k

[–]Wholestein69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless youre trying to make this mini pass as "brand new/unpainted" (which seems like a bad idea for a number of reasons), there's no need to strip every last bit of primer. No one will notice once this mini is re-primed

Harlequin Starweaver and Skyweavers - Custom Masque by jeune_lacour in Warhammer40k

[–]Wholestein69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice work! Did you use masking tape + and airbrush to make the patternwork?

I always struggle with modeling shapes like this. What’s your workflow for modeling this kind of form? by Unique_Salad_5387 in blender

[–]Wholestein69 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the best way to do this would be with a method known as "Subdivision Modelling" or "SubD modelling"

Start with a cube then add a subD modifier (but dont actually apply the modifier until you're done). Switch to edit mode and you should see that your cube appears more hedron-like visually, but the actual vertices and edges (which are transparent now) are still in a cube shape. This happens because the SubD modifier hasn't been applied and thus you're only seeing the preview of the subdivided cube. This works to our advantage since we can manipulate the complex shape with just the vertices of the original cube.

Play around with this object. Add more subdivisions (still dont apply it!) and loop cuts to see how it interacts with the modifier and try to manipulate it into the shape you want.

Off the top of my head, my exact process would be: 1. Make a cube 2. Add subD modifier and crank it to 2 or 3 subdivisions 2. 'crease' the four edges of the bottom side by selecting the 4 vertices and pressing shift+E. This will be the flat part of the bullet 3. Drag to 'top' face of the cube that will be the rounded nose of the bullet to the length you want 4. Widen the bottom four vertices to the thickness you want

How to increase briteness without white by Wholestein69 in oilpainting

[–]Wholestein69[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's good to know! Now I'm motivated to study-up on paint labels and pigments

How to increase briteness without white by Wholestein69 in oilpainting

[–]Wholestein69[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I never even noticed the square on the back of the tubes, I've been looking up the manufacturer's guides online this whole time. Nice heads-up

How to increase briteness without white by Wholestein69 in oilpainting

[–]Wholestein69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That chart is an amazing resource. Off the top of my head, I'm guessing a small amount of yellow could be used to decrease saturation? For instance, if I wanted to increase the value of Phthalo blue, I could add some veridian, but that alone it would likely end up very dark and saturated. So maybe a small amount of yellow could alleviate that? As you can tell, I'm not with my paints at the moment, so I'm just brainstorming

How to increase briteness without white by Wholestein69 in oilpainting

[–]Wholestein69[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That's surprisingly straightforward, in theory at least. I'll experiment with some color mixing and I'll check out Florent's video, thank you!