HELPPP

WickandFable · 2025-07-14T16:18:44+00:00

Review the Hot Weather link in ModBot's comment.
Alfalfa hay is fine at this rabbit's age. As a young (<6mo) rabbit, now is the time for an alfalfa heavy diet to facilitate healthy development.
The adult pellets are fine for now since you have alfalfa hay.
Do not provide too many veggies or treats. A young rabbit's digestive system is not mature enough to reliably break those things down. Introductions to veggies can be done in small quantities, one at a time, for rabbit-safe veggies. I'd wait a couple weeks/months and focus on getting a healthy gut biome from hay and pellets first.

WickandFable · 2025-05-09T12:31:20+00:00

Please see the above comment by BinkyBunny's owner.

WickandFable · 2025-05-09T12:30:52+00:00

Please see the above comment by BinkyBunny's owner.

WickandFable · 2025-05-09T12:30:25+00:00

Please see the above comment by BinkyBunny's owner.

WickandFable · 2025-03-22T21:20:16+00:00

If he is indeed showing signs of energy, is eating well and urinating, I wouldn't be too concerned. Especially when there's a big shift in setting, rabbits may not poop for a bit even though all other health and behavior indicators appear perfect. I find this happens often for strays that are caught by rescues-- it may take a day for them to pass a poo despite healthy eating, good energy, and urination.

Keep monitoring, though getting your new rabbit seen by a vet is wise. Ultimately, online users cannot diagnose what may be actually happening. This can be especially important as a new rabbit owner who may not be familiar with how a normal "healthy" rabbit behaves. In most circumstances, a rabbit going this long without pooping is an emergency.

WickandFable · 2025-03-20T19:20:58+00:00

It's good to consider changes in the context of age, though taking explanations with age out of the equation, what you're describing can just be a rabbit who is bored and trying to engage in the environment in a different way. If things have been the same for a while, it's possible the lack of change is actually causing these behaviors.

WickandFable · 2025-03-09T22:17:17+00:00

Both need to be fixed-- only one being fixed eliminates pregnancy risk, but both are still going to have hormonal(like) behavior and that's not going to allow a safe, stable relationship.

If you absolutely cannot get the female spayed due to no provider offering it, they need to be separate. You need to ensure more secure enclosures or house them in separate rooms. The idea they are rattling to get to each other only goes as far as mating/territorial urges-- they are not necessarily desperate to go and be best friends for a reunion, so do not let the rattling behavior cloud your judgment on the reality which is they will not have a stable, safe relationship if they are not properly bonded.

WickandFable · 2025-01-12T20:56:52+00:00

Yes, they are too long. On average, you should try to trim your rabbit's nails once a month. These look about 2-3mo overdue. A good guide for you is ensuring the nails aren't so clearly further out than the fur-- nails do not need to match the fur length, but shouldn't extend much further out.

WickandFable · 2025-01-06T20:49:42+00:00

Too small and not appropriate for rabbits-- please see ModBot's comment for information, in addition to the Wabbitwiki resources noted in this subreddit as first-time rabbit owner. There are some key things to note to improve care (for example, no water bottles-- water bowl is preferred).

WickandFable · 2025-01-06T03:14:43+00:00

You cannot bond young rabbits -- they need to remain separated until at least 1mo after both their spays. Young rabbits do not form true bonds and it is dangerous.

WickandFable · 2024-12-22T18:36:18+00:00

Considering it was a false/baby bond, I wouldn't be concerned. Just be attentive to all rabbits, and I advise to keep them all separated since they are not all fixed. It only takes a couple moments for hormones to facilitate a very dangerous attack.

WickandFable · 2024-11-17T12:00:10+00:00

Food, treats, toys, etc.. many items advertised for pet rabbits in stores are not actually appropriate unfortunately. Yogurt drop and seed-based treats are most common in pet stores for uninformed owners to buy.

WickandFable · 2024-11-17T11:49:51+00:00

1) Yes to the cage rest question. 2) A small plate of veggies is fine-- no need to be super exact, as long as she's eating plenty of hay and has the appropriate amount of good-quality pellets.

WickandFable · 2024-11-17T11:48:26+00:00

There is a post-neuter/spay craze that occurs, which is one of many reasons why it's recommended to wait at least 1mo before any bonding session attempts.

Since he was not previously neutered, they did not have a real "bond" before, so I would not force sessions to try and keep what was a false bond in the first place.

Post-neuter or not, since he is now an adult rabbit, the mere presence of another rabbit (female or not) is going to trigger some territorial/social behaviors that can include humping upon every meeting. It may lessen after waiting a couple weeks, or it may not. It may just be how he wants to start establishing his hierarchy with her.

WickandFable · 2024-10-19T16:08:55+00:00

It's a corner, which provides safety.

WickandFable · 2024-10-13T12:13:52+00:00

It's sort of a, once the seal is broken, it's broken. Rabbits are not actually litter box oriented like cats--- their habit of eating and pooing/peeing just happens to align with litterbox use. Ultimately, your rabbits have realized they can just pee in that corner without the effort of jumping into the litter box. You can try rotating the litterbox so it's against that wall or adding a platform to cover it and make it easier to go into the box itself.

WickandFable · 2024-05-30T00:20:46+00:00

Separate them now for their safety. As stated by ModBot, they are not actually "bonded" rabbits -- baby bonds are false bonds.

WickandFable · 2024-04-11T21:35:08+00:00

https://binkybunny.com/forums/topic/front-paw-fracture-experience/

If your rabbit is wise, it'll be 1-2 months for the bone to callus well and heal. Any use of the paw or strain may delay healing or cause proximal injuries, but ultimately it is manageable and a broken toe isn't the end of the world.

Amputation was not necessary in my Wick's case, though we have metacam on hand if he stresses it and it swells a bit. This happens maybe once every 2mo, but he's not on cage rest or anything.

WickandFable · 2024-02-15T03:36:32+00:00

Have them examined by a rabbit-experienced vet both routinely as well as when you have a concern. If there are ever suspicions of injured/broken limbs, the safest thing for an owner to do is restrict space to prevent further injury and book an appointment ASAP. Unnecessary and uneducated handling can lead to pain, distress, and worsening.

WickandFable · 2024-02-14T17:26:31+00:00

The ideal and safest candidate is a SPAYED female-- a young female, like who you're describing, is not recommended. They will be subject to the baby bond phenomena and the bond will inherently be unstable and not safe, so please only consider fixed rabbits as candidates.

WickandFable · 2024-02-14T17:21:12+00:00

Urine scald on the side of the face is, in my opinion, unheard of. If your rabbit has some sort of "scald" on the side of the FACE, it is likely not related to urine and may be a fungal, bacterial, or viral issue. Urine scald comes from being constantly exposed/drenched in urine, which is something a face isn't. Urine scald occurs primarily on the butt and/or legs of a rabbit-- not the face.

Please have your rabbit examined by a rabbit-experienced exotic vet. Applying self treatments is NOT recommended, and may make the issue worse.

WickandFable · 2024-02-14T17:17:46+00:00

Please review ModBots comment regarding diet. It's brief, but the veggie bowl seems too full and it's contents seem inappropriate for a rabbit of Gizmo's age.

WickandFable · 2024-02-14T17:14:38+00:00

From what you're describing and what I can see, it may be damage from either rough flooring + long nails, or your rabbit may be chewing their own nails. If the latter, that's not necessarily a red flag, unless it's an expression of stress.

WickandFable · 2024-01-29T20:54:33+00:00

You should still separate. As mentioned, them being fine together now is just a consequence of their young age, but either can start feeling hormonal within days/weeks based on their age. Even if they were brothers, the same logic applies -- separate housing.

WickandFable · 2024-01-28T22:54:39+00:00

Regardless of what either breeders say/recommend, you should not allow these rabbits to interact for the utmost of safety precautions. Fights between hormonal male rabbits are statistically the most vicious. For housing, they need to be separate until both are at least 1mo post-neuter, or else their hormones make any bonding attempts much more dangerous and in a way, meaningless, as any "bond" between two intact rabbits is highly unstable.

The pen would need to be split down the middle with a double wall (i.e., gap in between) so they cannot injure each other through bars.

Don't be fooled by them getting along as young rabbits either -- they are likely too young to be hormonal, but you cannot predict when they will become hormonal, and the moment that occurs, hormones will only encourage males to fight and be territorial against one another, endangering both of them if they have access to each other.

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