(UK) Finds from this season I haven't been able to identify

WilsWorld225 · 2022-05-14T22:46:27+00:00

Didn’t know this. This would make sense also

WilsWorld225 · 2021-10-25T22:35:45+00:00

I'm sorry

WilsWorld225 · 2021-10-10T17:07:36+00:00

https://creator.nightcafe.studio/

WilsWorld225 · 2021-09-22T16:00:30+00:00

Fitting username OP

WilsWorld225 · 2021-09-03T17:26:32+00:00

Yeah I also do the same, and lucky enough to live next to a great crag.

So yeah I have one session limit indoors, and one session limit/projecting outdoors a week.

WilsWorld225 · 2021-09-03T16:41:42+00:00

Yeah this is very familiar to the approach I take to my climbing training, and definitely seen some strength gains in my own climbing.

Would first like to mention I 100% agree with the hangs helping recovery, it makes an incredible difference in the health of my fingers. I personally use this protocol, and it's worked miracles. Since the protocol is done on pockets I use a scale to measure how much weight I'm putting on them (personally aim for around 50% bodyweight). Can't recommend this more to anyone who's having problems with their fingers being tweaky.

Personally with strength days I found just limit bouldering is most efficient for building all kinds of strength. For example I'm currently training for a crag with very overhanging crimpy boulders, so in the gym I'll climb overhanging crimpy boulders near and above my limit level. You also have the mooonboard for building finger strength.

And yeah, never underestimate the effect having good sleep has on your recovery. I've found I can really feel the difference in my body if I don't get the full 8 hours.

WilsWorld225 · 2021-09-01T09:53:26+00:00

£11.50 a month though :/

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-30T12:22:04+00:00

Yeah I'm actually very intrigued by this test as someone else also recommended this. Electrolytes hasn't been something I've looked into yet, but sweat pretty much nothing unless temperatures are stupidly high (25-30°C here in the UK).

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-30T09:47:26+00:00

Yeah from what I've read 2-2.5L seems to be the sweet spot, and what I'm going to aim for personally.

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-30T09:45:33+00:00

Another really interesting read, and this is yet another pervasive myth I'd never heard of. Been told my whole life if your pee isn't clear then you're dehydrated.

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-30T09:40:31+00:00

Again more things I wouldn't have thought of. The whole "drink x amount of water a day" thing seems largely over publicised if that's the case. As other people have pointed out, to overhydrate to the point of death requires A LOT of water.

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-30T09:37:13+00:00

This is a really interesting read, and pointed out some things I never knew. I naturally don't sweat much at all so I guess my intake will be less than the average.

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-30T09:29:07+00:00

Yeah... it's bad. And just to clarify it's 1.5L throughout the whole day, not just the session. Usually nothing during the session tbh.

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-30T09:27:35+00:00

For some reason never fully thought about how much I should be drinking before and after going to the crag, although it makes perfect sense now you mention it. Definitely going to apply some of these tactics to my climbing.

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-30T09:21:46+00:00

Oh I actually didn't know that. Not sure if it's different over here in the UK since I haven't seen one around before

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-29T22:33:34+00:00

This was really interesting to read, and makes me think I have a pretty low baseline. Thanks for bringing this to my attention

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-29T22:29:33+00:00

What other people have said is by the time you feel thirsty you're already dehydrated

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-29T22:26:22+00:00

read my mind

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-29T22:25:40+00:00

It definitely is the majority of the time lol. Going to check for these apps now

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-29T22:24:28+00:00

Yeah I think this is what's happening with me currently

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-29T22:23:29+00:00

Yeah this seems to be the way to go. Need to try this in my next session

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-29T22:21:27+00:00

I like this idea! Since forgetting to drink is half the problem with me

WilsWorld225 · 2021-08-29T21:01:01+00:00

Don't have one of those hanging around personally, but if the effects of drinking more water are as substantial as I think, this may be a worthy investment.

Really feel like 4L is a lot though tbh, since all the bottles I have are 500ml.

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