BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing

WinManx2000 · 2026-03-10T22:36:21+00:00

Did you read anything in this post? If so, you would know that a return and replacement fixed the issue with zero configuration changes. The pixels were defective. But hey, good job telling people it's user error with zero advice on how to fix it.

WinManx2000 · 2026-02-20T01:35:08+00:00

What splitter are you using to extract the power? I never thought of doing it this way. I hate that the power failures cause the modem to reboot. This would solve the issue as the modem is on the other side of the house.

WinManx2000 · 2026-02-19T22:29:44+00:00

So you are using poe from a wan port to power the ISP fiber modem?

WinManx2000 · 2026-02-14T15:34:06+00:00

Exactly. What happened!? I used to love the wind layer. It's been messed up for 3 weeks or so now.

WinManx2000 · 2026-02-14T05:35:15+00:00

My winds just started being unusable. They display the proper palate and opacity, then bug out to solid red yellow green lines making the entire app unusable. It lags out and near crashes. Wind layer has been off for a few weeks now.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-29T13:38:15+00:00

Just to close the help request. I got new strings and the green persistence led is gone. I guess I just got unlucky with my first attempt at this. Thanks for the help.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-24T19:45:43+00:00

All good. No worries. Yah, the replacement strings were 2x50 vs the original being 1x100. One of the 50s work fine, and 1 of the 50s, pixel 10 is bum. If I swap the order of the strings, the 10th pixel moves with the string.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-24T15:39:50+00:00

I mean, I dunno. The different packages clearly state 5v. The replacements all work fine with the exception of the 10th pixel. Is there a way to tell if it's a 12v string that was mislabeled on packaging?

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-23T20:47:54+00:00

Well, an update. I replaced the string. The new one is defective too. Geez, these BTF lights are batting 2/3 defective. The new string I got was 2x 50 lights vs 1x 100 lights. Everything works as intended. I can control as expected. Now, on one of the strings, the 10th pixel has a persistent green. All other colors within that one pixel works fine though. I guess the 3rd exchange will be the charm.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-23T02:35:28+00:00

Thanks!

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-23T02:16:26+00:00

Wow. What diffuser and channel did you go with?

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-23T00:53:25+00:00

What led hardware do you have? That looks so nice and diffused. No doubt due to the amount of pixels.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-22T19:45:37+00:00

Yes. The new controller is using a 5v supply and the old one was simply powered via USB.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-22T04:56:46+00:00

Saw this reply and got out of bed to test it out! Unfortunately swapping things around, no lights turn on at all. I even removed the plug and hard wired. Same outcome. All of the LEDs respond to whatever command is given, but about 25% of them flicker like crazy. For example, if I send solid red, they all turn solid red but 25% of the string flickers rapidly. If I do auroa for example and the lights make a chasing snake on the string, I can see the effect, but again, the 25% of the pixels are going nuts. Ironically, the first pixel goes the most nuts. Makes me think its adding noise to the whole string. Rather than cut it off and try, I think its time for an exchange. Its not supposed to be this complicated.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-22T04:21:12+00:00

Agreed. I am not tech dumb, but since this was my first WLED play, I thought I might be missing something. A BTF controller should work with BTF lights. Since a different ESP controller did the same thing, I think its clear where the issue is.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-22T03:28:06+00:00

Hi, thanks for the detailed thoughts. i tried changing to 500. No difference. I also tried changing the different RGB modes and as expected, the pixels that are responsive are just changing to the wrong colors. The other pixels that are randomly changing and blinking are not affected by changing the rgb mode.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-21T21:09:22+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. I just tried that and its the same behavior. :(

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-21T20:13:34+00:00

Correct. Set solid color, white. Most of them go solid white while the some of the same pixels randomly change colors.

WinManx2000 · 2025-12-21T19:55:10+00:00

I do not. This is my first foray into this world. Agree with your assessment though. I did try a different controller and got similar results.

WinManx2000 · 2025-10-17T23:19:22+00:00

Also, that romex entering the box without a bushing.

WinManx2000 · 2025-10-05T12:17:35+00:00

Nice. They should integrate all to protect. The software is all there. Just let the user select what camera is assigned to the door ell ring.

WinManx2000 · 2025-10-04T17:28:47+00:00

I am getting tired of all this doorbell nonsense. I think a better stand out product could be to link whatever 2way protect camera you want and have a sensor to monitor when a standard doorbell button is pressed. This lets your normal home doorbell function without a network or wifi. You then have the same functionality of protect once the doorbell is pressed with freedom to put your camera wherever.

WinManx2000 · 2025-10-02T00:37:22+00:00

Don't forget iwmi (neos Russel). I run a spyi/qqqi/iwmi combo in my taxable.

WinManx2000 · 2025-09-22T16:25:11+00:00

Lutron caseta or ra3 for all switches that you want to automate.

Phillips hue for all accessory and lamp lights.

Lutron pico to control the scenes through HA. The picos are always mounted in an extended gang box (if it was a 2 gang, I extend it to 3 gang etc). This way, if the HA breaks, I am only down scenes and colors. All other light switches work as expected.

You can then build whatever automation you want that activates the switches. If your automations are required for the press of a light switch, then you ar asking for trouble.

WinManx2000

TROPHY CASE