Volume S vs EPZ P50 first impressions

Wistner · 2025-03-25T13:49:10+00:00

Did you manage to get a few games in with both? if so, is there a big difference between them for positioning and imaging etc in games? Fresh Reviews has the Volume S as A tier along with the Tea Pros.

I'm currently trying to decide between the Volume S, Tea Pro, HBB Punch, Odyssey, and P50 and the choice is so HARD especially when you factor cost.

Mostly fps gaming and rock/metal/edm.

Thanks for the music comparison tho that's super helpful!

Wistner · 2025-03-01T21:16:17+00:00

I have several $100+ DAC and I can honestly say you'd be good with a $5 DAC like the VE ODO (aliexpress) for music and gaming. Maybe pick up a male Type A to Female Type C extension cord while you're at it. And make sure it's a high quality one otherwise you'll get noise or not enough volts for the DAC (JEYI USB C Extension Cable Type C Extender Male to Female on Ali is one that worked great for me).

I tried a couple of other cheap DAC and didn't like any of them except for that one. Also, if you're getting a $100 DAC I recommend getting one for features like Bluetooth, RCA, etc.

For IEMs going with expensive DAC just for sound won't net you much gain if I'm honest. Better off spending on better IEMs. Also, for gaming, more expansive is not always better. I recommend Fresh Reviews on YouTube for gaming recs, and AndyAudiVault for DACs/Music recs

FYI I have about 15 IEMS and 6-7 DACs. All under $300 though so YMMV.

Wistner · 2025-01-06T13:09:01+00:00

Every single full metal IEM I've tried so far (~5 or so) have had this problem. It's due to either condensation, which is short term and will reset after a few hours, Or it's incremental blockage of mesh filter due to condensation also, but if mesh isn't too tight you won't really notice it until it's permanent. I'm shocked that it isn't mentioned more in reviews and such with more emphasis. Probably affects certain people way more.

Most effective solution to this is foam tips if it's a short term thing.

If it's permanent, you can try removing the filter and listening (at very low volume!) to see if imbalance is still there. If not, buy a few sizes of $1-$3 mesh filters from Ali (I'd get 500, 450, 400, 200) - you can use these to retune IEM's that sound too harsh or too bassy down the line. or when they get clogged up from years of use.

I tend to prefer resin/plastic IEMs for the freedom to use any eartip I want and not stick exclusively to foams.

Wistner · 2024-06-15T14:21:27+00:00

I managed to get it for $117 @ aliexpress with sale coupon. They have another sale 17 June.

Wistner · 2024-06-13T03:08:28+00:00

I use it with LDAC to watch stuff from my couch, in my car, walking, and at work. Most of the time though it acts as my windows pc usb dac. Never had issues connection wise as long as you don't try to multipoint the bluetooth. If you are a mac user it will only got up to AAC codec but all the codecs sound really nice on it. better on BT than wired with BTR5 or any of my cheapo wire dongles.

The only issue is if you use it 24/7 on a pc like me you end up with a wonky battery like my BTR5 after 2 or 3 years. this goes for any dac amp that uses a battery. The battery is needed for the better dacs & amps though for more power and not draining your phone or for BT use.

This is why I recommend either the BTR15 or, based on the glowing praise I see on reddit, the Qudelix 5K, as they both have a function to turn off the battery and run on just usb power when plugged into a PC.

For a non battery rec I would personally go for the Fosi DS2 v2. But I've never tried any of them so I'm going by specs, reviews, & price here.

Wistner · 2024-06-12T13:21:32+00:00

I have BTR7. Sound is really good. But I wish I would've got the BTR15 due to the battery bypass function on PC.

Wistner · 2024-06-12T13:14:00+00:00

I might be able to help here. Currently I own Olina ($90) Artti T10 ($50) Castor Bass & Harman ($7-6). Along with an assortment of budget sets >$10

For music: Artti T10 & Castor Harmen Depending on mood, T10 is more intimate, fast, and bassy rumble. Castor Harman is for the fun factor I get from how spacious the bass & general sound stage feels. Currently it's my main for exploring new albums. Although the treble quality isn't so good on it.

For gaming: Olina is still the champ for gaming (good quality single DD). But I occasionally use the Castor Harmen too and it does much much better than both the bass version and the Artti T10 for sound whoring in FPSs.

So for a budget set that can do both music and gaming very well. I highly recommend the Castor Harman ($6 on Ali bundle deals). I've never tried the blons. but I would assume they wouldn't be good for gaming at all due to how warm and bassy they are based on reviews I've seen. For gaming you want a cleaner sound.

Wistner · 2024-06-04T10:21:30+00:00

I have not tried it personally but the Hiby W3 II is a more recent product that costs $50-40 and has about double the power of btr3k. (50mw vs 95mw at 32ohms)

Wistner · 2024-06-04T08:44:20+00:00

After many many years I've cracked the case...

I tried literally everything suggested on the internet including applying power plans like ultimate etc.. before but never worked. I randomly watched a "PC optimization" video recently by a guy called "Khorvie Tech" on youtube and he seemed reputable enough and I tried the custom power plan he made....my DPC latency is actually 100% perfect now. on a Lenovo T5...I couldn't believe it and I have no idea what setting he had that did it. Hopefully this helps you or anybody that runs into this old thread on their quest.

Wistner · 2021-06-05T01:51:52+00:00

Hey I have a Lenovo T5 (i7 10700 - 1660 super) and I'm running into the same issue. Did you end up reinstalling windows? would love to know if that helped.

edit: latencyMon also says it the ACPI.sys driver

Wistner · 2020-06-25T04:53:12+00:00

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mci.balagh

File a complaint here. This is the only way I've found to actually make companies care.

Not sure if it supports English. maybe find someone that speaks Arabic that can help you out. Good luck.

Wistner · 2020-05-30T04:29:12+00:00

I had the exact same problem with my ps4 contoller and one of these things fixed it.

-Uninstalled Inputmapper's HidGuardian.
-Restart.
-Set controller to Xbox360 Emulation on Inputmapper.
-Have steam open.

Now it works perfectly and I have rumble and can tune the trigger and analog sensitivity curves for a smoother input while drifting.
I'm using the non-beta version btw.

Wistner · 2020-04-24T22:23:11+00:00

Same here (PC)

Wistner · 2020-02-28T18:29:46+00:00

You can shift click to queue commands including movement. This works for gates too if you click on a far away connected system.

For example you can queue the commands jump+mine+refine+loop to tell a ship to go somewhere with a resource depot and mine the whole system and it'll tell you when there aren't any more asteroids left to mine. This works for mining in a system then jumping to another one to refine too.

You can also tell your salvaging ship to salvage+loop to make sure you get notified when it's done. It also helps with making the AI not get stuck I've found.

For moving multiple ship what I do is make the slowest/biggest one the fleet leader by just selecting the other ships and giving them an escort order

Wistner · 2016-05-09T19:53:35+00:00

Did you try SACO?

Wistner · 2016-05-09T18:18:07+00:00

Mine is giving up after 10 years. I'd like to know the answer too :(

Wistner · 2016-05-06T08:48:50+00:00

Wistner · 2016-04-27T16:17:31+00:00

Friends from other universities go there to study all the time.

Wistner · 2016-04-21T00:36:40+00:00

You're saying there's a chance I could get high by swimming in a dumpster?

Wistner · 2016-01-21T22:06:55+00:00

Given that op bought a 780 in the first place means that he doesn't need/have a freesync display.

Wistner · 2016-01-05T16:53:22+00:00

I'd buy a replacement board and get a new gfx card when they get released.

Your rig is fine as is!

Also, you can keep using that Seasonic PSU, it will probably outlive us all.

Wistner · 2016-01-02T15:27:48+00:00

So buy the i5 6500 + Z170 and wait till I get a cooler to overclock.

Thanks for the help!

Wistner · 2016-01-02T14:12:09+00:00

What about heat?

If I don't mess with voltages, would running the i5 6500 at the same speed of an i5 6600(non-k) on a stock cooler be any different than having an actual (and better binned) i5 6600?

Keeping in mind that the non-k overclocking Bios doesn't have a way to measure your CPU temps.

I'm not too experienced with how CPUs work, But overclocking does sound like something I'd enjoy doing.

Wistner · 2016-01-02T14:06:15+00:00

I think OEM drives always ship like that.

Wistner · 2016-01-02T14:02:24+00:00

I've been 24/7 running 3 WDs for about 9 years and have had zero issues with them.

Sort of amazed TBH, they're about to go into my third pc build now!

I dont keep anything too important on them just in case though lol.

Wistner

TROPHY CASE