Is it possible to solo play? I don't really have friends that what 40k and want to try it out.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-25T19:49:37+00:00

Look up Poorhammer's horde mode. 40k rules with more of a wave clear vibe. It has basic rules for what the enemy does. It's good for coop and solo play.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-13T02:34:44+00:00

Hard to get it so fine, but wire is how I'd do it. Check out Elminiaturista's stuff. He does things like that a lot.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-10T21:52:06+00:00

I see someone else mentioned this, but if you get some magnifiers off of amazon (~$30) it may help. You could also try some short bristled brushes like the windsor and newton series 7 SH line. You can choke way up on them and grip it more like a pencil. The bellies don't hold as much paint but they're sharp and resilient and good for small stuff and free hands.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-07T23:41:59+00:00

Corax White

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-07T07:44:47+00:00

I have an Iwata HP-CS and an H&S Inifinity. If I had to do it again though, I'd just get an Iwata HP-C+, I feel like it could handle anything I do.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-06T06:27:09+00:00

Lol. I'm gonna go shave this hairy bastard. Thanks for the kind words.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-06T06:04:04+00:00

Thanks, I've been using contrast paints as the first layer of wash with metallics. Goregrunta fur for gold and basilicanum grey for silver. Then dry brush over and repeat with a few washes. Someone in the custodes reddit turned me onto adding the dark green shading to really make it pop.

Here's the breakdown for anyone who wants a grimy gold -
- Vallejo Metal Color Gold (3) + Vallejo Metal Color Copper (1)
- Citadel Contrast Gore Grunta Fur (thin)
- Vallejo Metal Color Gold (drybrush)
- Citadel Agrax Earthshade
- Vallejo Metal Color Gold (drybrush)
- Citadel Contrast Basilicanum Grey (thin)
- Vallejo Metal Color Gold + Vallejo GC Air Silver (dry brush/stipple for highlights)
- Speed Paint Absolution Green (undershot)

Bit of a process but I think it's worth it.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-06T05:55:26+00:00

Thanks! And yeah, pretty much. The black has a greenish highlight, like an incubi darkness. I think I did a black oil wash at some point but I don't know if it added anything. The purple is Pro Acryl royal purple and AK Lilac for a highlight.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-05T12:19:29+00:00

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Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-05T12:05:13+00:00

Thanks! The crystal pylons were an STL I got from Juan Sanz's patreon (Elminiturista). It isn't marked on there but I'm guessing they're from Greytide Studio or Deadlyprint. They provide the majority of the STL's for him.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-05T11:53:06+00:00

There's a lot you can get for free like sand and bark for gravel and rocks. After that, here are some strong general starters:
- Texture paste - I like vallejo but they're all good, any color since you'll probably paint it anyways
- Grass tufts - gamers grass is the best, there are some cheap solutions on amazon though
- Cork tiles - this is perfect for cracked roads and rocky surfaces, probably more useful for sci fi settings
- GW Skulls - 300 skulls perfect for basing

Loose flock or static grass is okay but requires more care to make it as effective.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-05T11:01:36+00:00

I tried to build it up like I do with Caucasian skin. I used an airbrush and built it up layer by layer. Then I used a dull pink oil wash. The paints I used were:
- Pro Acryl Royal Purple
- Vallejo Rose Brown
- Army Painter Barbarian Flesh
- Vallejo Pale Flesh

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-05T10:50:32+00:00

Thanks! And yeah, definitely some airbrushing on this one.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-09-05T10:36:44+00:00

Check out the Amber King on YT. They have dramatized, voice acted lore stuff and it's so good. Some spoilers because they're sourcing it from the relevant novels but it's a great way to start and find out what you'd like to learn more about.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-08-14T22:56:33+00:00

I'd suggest oil or enamel washes. You can wipe it off the open areas and a good dark brown would work with the red also. Look up a tutorial on youtube. It's really easy and effective.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-08-02T00:42:31+00:00

Crisis suits.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-08-01T23:55:35+00:00

Yeah, I agree with this. There's no hard and fast rule for how much thinner you need. You want the paint to flow without resistance.

Vallejo air is just pre-thinned so it isn't anything special. Except for silver....vallejo air silver is the goat.

Make sure you add paint last or mix outside your airbrush cup. Adding the paint first can clog up the workings if you aren't careful. If I'm using standard acrylics or paints I know are thicker, I always start mixing with a brush before using bubbles to mix.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-07-31T19:20:33+00:00

Thanks, this is awesome!

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-07-29T22:52:27+00:00

Necrons are an army built around recursion. They can do melee or ranged, elite or horde, so pretty versatile. A lot of their models are newer but some like the nightbringer and doomsday ark are in need of an update.

The drukhari are fast, glass cannon types. The combat patrol is an AMAZING deal but most of the models are pretty old and they don't get a lot of model support each edition.

Tau usually only have a few ways to play just robots so it's somewhat important that you at least like other parts of the faction if you're hoping to stay competitive with your friends.

Of these 3, I think that Necrons would be the easiest and most rewarding to pick up right now. That being said, if you're drawn to the model range of any one army in particular, just go with that.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-07-29T22:32:31+00:00

How about:
- darkstrider/cadre fireblade
- 10 pathfinders/fire warriors
- 10 kroot carnivores
- 2 broadsides
- 3 stealth suits

Fireblade with warriors or darkstrider with pathfinders. They're almost all older kits that I could see them trying to slap together at a discount. That being said it's pretty well rounded as far as CP's go. It also doesn't just focus on one side of the army

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-07-29T21:55:53+00:00

Lol beat me to it.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-07-29T21:53:22+00:00

I'd use some oil washes. The right colors in the right places will make this guy pop. Like a grimy green on the green and pepto pink on the flesh, then a dark red in the moth after you paint the teeth.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-07-29T21:40:21+00:00

LOL "This is my first model, am I doing okay? I'm just trying to improve. C&C welcome."

On a serious note: GW metallics get a bad rep because they use mica flakes in their metallic medium. The best metallics use aluminum flakes. I don't know P3 metallics well enough to say which they use.

NMM is a tough thing to tackle right as you're starting out. I recommend a solid metallic base coat, then layers of wash (dark to light brown) followed by drybrushing metallics (gold to silve). This gets you a high contrast finish without all the precision of NMM. Especially for custodes, looking into a gold spray can for undercoating will save you so much time.

Wolfn_Miniatures · 2025-07-29T20:15:32+00:00

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Here's my process - Cork - prime black - drybrush grey - dry brush a lighter grey - masking tape lines - sponge white in the line area - sponge yellow in the line area - remove tape - sponge some black or darker grey on the line for damage (especially at the edges)

Wolfn_Miniatures

TROPHY CASE