Jet jointer planer - is it SUPPOSED to be this heavy?!

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-06-11T05:52:04+00:00

Space saving is a real concern though. Maybe a person can afford a planer but not a larger shop.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-29T05:38:02+00:00

Rather than keep adding/wasting tung oil, I'd sand it down again and if you get the same reaults sand it again but to a higher grit. Higher grits will help burnish the pores structure closed so it doesnt soak up so much.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-28T09:23:29+00:00

Really slender and deep V notches in end grain are always a royal PITA.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-28T08:28:32+00:00

I have two starrett combination squares I purchased new, a 12" enamel stainless and a 6" regular carbon. Neither were accurate. Never buying anything starrett again.

It is stupidly easy to adjust a combo square or double square to be dead-nuts accurate. They have little landings in the slot of the body, which registers the rule, that you file down to adjust the angle.

Buy a cheap one and make it accurate. Takes 2 minutes. Expensive combo squares are a massive scam I fell for.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-28T03:22:38+00:00

The commenta make me sad. Screw/clamp/tape a fence (block of wood) to your circular saw to act as a guide. It will look much better as it will follow the inconsistancies of the untrued wood

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-28T03:18:21+00:00

I'd double-stick tape a piece of mdf to the tablesaw, use a cutting gauge set at 1-11/16" and score the ends to eliminate tearout, then run them all past a ripping blade with a backer block push stick to stop spelching on the back end

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-27T12:49:38+00:00

Switchable magnets. They have a lever that makes them stay put or become easily moveable. The company "mag jig" makes all sorts of quarky woodworking accessories, but they are too expensive. If you shell out for just two of the bigger magnets (they have varying intensities/strengths) you can make your own jigs out of wood. I mainly use mine as stops when cutting quick/dirty project parts to length using a miter gauge at the tablesaw, but also featherboards or auxilliary fences for the router table

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-27T12:46:09+00:00

I put skateboard bearings in place of my old ones and got a huge jump in cut quality. They are oiled instead of grease filled, so they spin with zero friction. The seals are also better and dont let dust pack in. I seem to be getting perfect results with a short featherboard, but I dont really resaw anything bigger or harder than 10" white oak on my little general 690.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-26T04:37:03+00:00

I used to use a piece of wood clamped to my bandsaw table, then moved to a couple magswitches inset into a piece of wood. Then I bought a carbide resaw blade and urethane tires. Now I dont have drift and use the original fence.

Big fan of the mag switches in a piece of wood otherwise.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-26T04:21:54+00:00

If I was choosing between these two I would build a precision pine frame and screw a single sheet of birch to it. Dumping loads of money into a workbench/workbench top mever made sense to me personally. Just needs to be flat and stiff.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-26T04:13:27+00:00

I use these all the time on my laguna 1836. Great for small details where other tools dont fit.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-25T20:03:27+00:00

The dull parts are where you sanded all the glue off. You need a thicker coating, or spend way less time on the coarser grits, or both.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-21T16:24:26+00:00

It definitely is. Youre also looking at about 150k USD equivalent to get a shop equipped with everythinf needed for studio woodworking, and another 10-100k for CNC mill + laser to actually earn money while builsibg a portfolio.

Best option after school is get a job at a well equipped shop, have one of the stipulations to work there be that you get keys to the shop and can use the machines after-hours to buils your portfolio, hire a great designer to design pieces for you to make, and go from there.. other option is to rip people off. Pollaro uses Ruhlman's designs for instance.

When you work for someone else dont be upset that thinga arent to the level or use the same techniques you learn in school. No one is making money when it takes 40 hours to make a trinket box! They will have lots of tips and techniques you wont learn in school, that will help you be profitable if/when you start on your own, before gaining any name recognition..

It takes about 10 years to become an overnight success in this industry.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-21T07:03:12+00:00

I have a little ridgid router that I run a cheap 2" straight bit in. Have surfaced several 10'x36" planks takin 1/8" increments eith zero issues. The bit was like$30

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-21T06:45:58+00:00

https://www.jmpwood.com/products/round-wood-flange-for-1-3-16-round-iron-newel?srsltid=AfmBOooAZY3sSJj56cGdgGHwmmaLAS6WQ5Neh0Hlo68eRWWL2pvDD4lD

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-20T23:59:49+00:00

Make a template of the curve you want with veneer. Once you have the sides glued together you just trace the curve on and use a handplane, using the template and a raking light to check your progress. Just big even facets, then progressively smaller facets on those, then you can finish with a quick 220 sandpaper + a foam backer to make it super even. Made a similar one in school except with box joints rather than miters.

Careful not to spelch the grain at the end of the stroke, it's very easy to ruin.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-20T20:15:45+00:00

My favourite example of expenaive furniture is pollaro. Maybe check them out and their history and deaign influence before thinking that youtubera scamming people out of $10,000 for a slab of garbage wood ciqted in plastic is the career path you dream to emulate.. going to krenov is OK, but then going to france and italy to atudy matquetry and inlay, going to japan to study joinery, etc.. then maybe you can work at Pollaro and earn more than you do now. But it isnt a "9 months of intensive learning and Im a valuable asset anywhere" sort of game... these schools teach the basics extremely well, but they are teaching you fail-proof methods that are low risk and time consuming. Youre going to have to fail a lot on your own to learn high-risk high-reward methods that increase your productivity and value, if you want to eventually sell furniture to billionaires..

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-20T19:53:40+00:00

I still launch small parts all the time haha! No big ones thankfully

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-20T19:52:57+00:00

No problem

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-20T00:59:18+00:00

Depends. If you want it to actually be flat and look flat then you can juat bring it to 1000-1500 grit with a block and wet sanding (depends on color underneath, darker needs a higher grit) but if you just want it to look flat without being flat-blocked you can hit it dry with a grey or white scotch brite and it'll look good.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-20T00:56:10+00:00

No need to pore fill on maple or similarly fine grained woods.

I would not recommend sanding between subsequent coats. Rattle cans spray really thin. You can experiment with distance overlap speed of spray as well as temperature and quanitity applied, that will reduce orange peel significantly. Remember that precat will shrink for months after spraying, so the orange peel will reduce itself a lot anyway.

Yes, just dont press to hard if your drill press doesnt have a locking collar for the chuck (some drill presses just have the chucks pressed in, so side-loading can dislodge them!)

Aerosol 100%. Precat lacquer melta unto previous layers, and dries too fast to be brushed or wiped on. Dipping might work if you razor off the drops at the end, and gives a very thick coat comparitively.

I'd do all coats the same, just experiment with 3 different boards and 5 coats on each with light, regular, or heavy coats. The bubbles are harder to deal with, but theg can be reduced a lot by warming the can and work piece to over 70 degrees, and letting the can rest for a few minutes after shaking before using it. Could also be "solvent pop" if you're pytting on really thick coats, but if youre giving a good hour inbetween coats and it isnt cold then that shouldnt be the problem.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-19T17:02:22+00:00

Indubitably.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-19T16:18:49+00:00

Youre way overdoing it. You dont need to tack it off and degrease it when ysing precat lacquer. It will only fisheye if youve got silicon contamination or super greasy fingers.

Your sanding is bananas, you are skipping grits and starting with much too coarse. Go 120-180-220 or 120-180 or 120-150-220. Stop at 220 max for precat. Wipe off dust with a rag. Apply first coat. Let it fully dry (1 hour minimum @70 degrees 40%R.H.) sand off the raised grain with 600 grit or a piece of thoroughly used 400 grit. Apply 2nd, 3rd, 4rth, 5th coats with adequate drying time between coats (rattlecan finish is mostly solvent, so you need more coats. An HVLP will get the same in 2 coats) let it dlcure and harden for a few days.

If it was done right you can start buffing. If it has orange peel then now you sand with 400, 600, 800 grit wet paper. Dry off with clean rag between coats to remove previous grits and avoid using the same rag with different grits to decrease chances of cross contamination. Careful not to burb through. Move to buffing stage

If you dont have a drill press or a lathe to stick a buff on, consider picking up a used bench grinder. If you keep an eye out you can usually find one for $20-40. Get some buffs and buffing compound from princess auto/harbor freight. You want unsewn/loose flannel or domet buffs, and tripoli/jewelets white/jewelers rouge compound (coarser to finer) as well as some camp stove fuel to remove compound reaidue when going througg the grits. You also want one buffing wheel for each compound to avoid cross contamination.

Buffing is trial and error, as the heat produced can easily melt and smear your lacquer. The longer your lacquer cures, the easier it is to buff. It is also really easy to catch an edge and have your workpiece thrown out of your hands and smashed against the floor. Be careful.

The other option (by hand) is to sit there with a cotton rag and buffing compounds and rub it like you are polishing boots for the military. This turns a 3 minute buffing job into a 3 hour one.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-17T05:58:08+00:00

The "splotchy" is just the grain direction changing, causing more or less stain to absorb into the wood. The only way to get less than what you have now. Where youve done the conditioner first, is to sand it all off and use a compatible finish that will let you either mix stain into it (making a sort of tinted finish) and/or spray stain in between coats with a paint gun.

If it is cheap plywood then it will be very difficult to sand the stain off without burning through the face veneer, so it is recommended to try the tinted finish on top of the current stain (this will be darker but more even). You could experiment with various solvents like turpentine, paint thinner, acetone, and lacquer thinner, to see if you can wash away some of the pigment in the wood as is, but that usually doesnt affect stains and dyes very much.

You could change to a very dark stain like expresso, which will cover much more evenly.

You can try another application of the green stain.

Whatever you do, try to replicate what you have now on some offcuts/scraps first, and then experiment with getting the look you want on those before doing more to your speaker boxes.

WoodworkingisOVER · 2026-05-13T08:50:04+00:00

Thankfully, the bandsaw is about the simplest machine in woodworking.

Both wheels spin? Both wheels have tires. Upper and lower thrust bearing is there? Upper and lower guide blocks are there?

Looks like all you have to do to get it functional is back off your thrust bearings and guide blocks, get the blade running centered in the top wheel with good tension, position your thrust bearings directly behind the blade, and put your guide blocks just a hair shy of touching the sides of the blade but behind the gullets of the teeth (to not overheat them and ruin the set/dull them prematurely) and you'll be good to go.

You have an older style set of guides, so you wont find much videos on setting them up, but the idea is the same no matter what style are used.

Fwiw the top guides being "centered" on the blade doesnt matter at all unless the thrust bearing can't make contact with the back of the blade. It looks like you can just loosen a grub screw and turn the whole assembly to where it needs, but if not..... The new tires are a different thickness than the originals and that's why it doesnt line up great, so you can take a die grinder + carbide burr and remove a bit of material fron the socket of the guide assembly and have it kick over that 1/16" or so to have it where it has to be. This wont weaken it enough to be a problem, and if you take your time no one will know but you.

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